CV replacement

[swquin]

I thought I would relate my experience in changing this component in the hope it helps others. I have a 1.9 litre 04 model with 220K miles on the clock. I found that when taking a right hand bend under power I heard a knocking sound which stopped the instant that the clutch was depressed. I had an experienced pal sit with me and we both thought the left side would need replacing. Wrong, I should have inspected both carefully and would have found a split in the RH gaiter. So I ended up replacing the left on one weekend and then the one I had removed onto the right the next weekend. To do so I needed to buy some grease and clips (Ebay £4.50). So Inspect first! I got the FAG CV kit which was about £35 delivered. Plus £2.50 for the 18mm hex drive which I did not have. Get some disposable gloves!

1. Take the road wheel off & press out the centre plastic cap from the inside.

2. Put the road wheel back on and loosen the axle bolt. I used an 18mm hex to 1/2" drive with a 2 ft breaker bar but it was not that tight that a socket set would not do it.

3. Remove the road wheel and put an axle stand underneath.

4. Remove the axle bolt.

5. Use an 18 mm socket to loosen the ball joint nut. Undo it a few turns.

6. Break the joint using a ball joint breaker. One side was easy the other not. Had to use a blow torch and hammer. Use something to protect the rubber gasket from the flame. Remove the nut.

7. Using an 18 mm ring spanner remove the other ball joint on the bottom. This taper goes the other way so you cannot get a breaker on it. The technique is to put a hammer on one side and hit the other. You may have to apply heat. On the right I ended up taking the whole bush out rather than breaking the taper but it went back on OK. I did not try this but you could possibly remove it from the other end of that strut which may be easier.

8. Cut the larger diameter clip with a hacksaw. Do it carefully so the boot can be re-used if required. Then pull the boot off the joint. This gives a bit more room to move the ball joint taper.

9. Pull the ball joint away. You will need to move the steering wheel and possibly lever up the hub. Your assistant will help here.

10. Push the shaft in with a screwdriver so the drive shaft is lying loose on the suspension.

11. Cut off the smaller clip.

12. Take a mallet and knock the CV joint off the driveshaft.

13. Push the boot back, clean up the shaft and remove the circlip. This is not easy for one person, I used circlip pliers.

14. Remove the boot (kits come with a new boot). Fit the new one.

15. Re-fit the circlip and washer. I fitted the old one as the shape of the new one prevented using pliers (god knows why!).

16. Add half the grease to the new joint.

17. Fit the new CV joint by driving it onto the shaft with a mallet.

18. Fit the joint into the axle by reversing what you did to get it out.

19. Fit the axle bolt.

20. Add the remaining grease into the boot and pull the boot onto the joint.

21. Refit the ball joint, tighten nuts and torque where you can.

22. Add the boot clips and crimp (I used some nail pliers).

23. Remove the axle stand and re-fit the road wheel.

24. Torque up the axle bolt.

25. Re-fit the centre plastic wheel plug.

26. Torque up road wheel nuts.

Note there is no need to remove the speed sensor (from other posts). The FAG kit came with a lot of extra bits, clips plastic rings etc which were not required. Photograph as you go so you know what was fitted. I did not bother replacing the clip located at the end of the shaft as it was not worn. If you screw up and cannot continue a good fallback is to use tie wraps instead of the steel clips for the boots. I am far from an expert in doing this and it is not that difficult but a helper is advised.

Good luck!