no i dont know how to do that.

heaters now warm.

water still not getting to rad

pipe is starting to get warm thou.

how do i do that please

dropped thermostat in hot water doesnt open

i read another post about a flow valve but cant see it on mine.

so thermostat is partly at fault

 

no it hasnt solved it still over heating and rad isnt getting hot.

either.

Edited 20 December, 20205 yr by Jimoct

tested thermostat in boiling water

and as suspected doesnt open.

so thats part of the problem

but i still have no water circulation to the radiator.

im not sure if mine has a flow valve which ive read can cause this issue.

As it's a MK3 it must be the EA288 engine.

 

This has a separate coolant pump for the cabin heater, which explains why the cabin heater always works ok.

 

This engine also has the troublesome sleeved engine cooling pump ( V488 ), where the electrically operated sleeve that stops coolant circulation has a bad habit of getting stuck, preventing circulation of the main engine coolant, which seems to be your problem now the thermostat has been removed.

 

This troublesome pump has a sleeve control valve ( electrical ) N489, which when operated stops coolant circulation.

This is operated by the ECU while the engine is cold.

So I would electrically disconnect this valve & hope the sleeve becomes unstuck at some point, which they usually seem to do.

If the sleeve comes free, the pump just pumps all the time as older pumps do.

 

If it stays stuck, the only other way of proving it is the problem would be to add an extra electric cooling pump into the main cooling system somehow.

But that could be easier said than done..

 

Otherwise it's timing belt off to get to the pump.

thanks for the rely

it has had a pump and timing belt thou i sent it in for one.

and garage said its all new already been replaced.

so they wouldnt change it.

so is this timing belt pump your on about.

3 minutes ago, Jimoct said:

thanks for the rely

it has had a pump and timing belt thou i sent it in for one.

and garage said its all new already been replaced.

so they wouldnt change it.

so is this timing belt pump your on about.

Yes, that pump is notorious for the sleeve getting stuck even on pumps that have been changed.

 

As I said above, disconnect the pump sleeve electrical plug ( N489 ) & hope the sleeve becomes unstuck. 

This plug is on the timing belt side just above the main belt driven cooling pump.

so is it easy to get at ?

and will it start pumping the coolant round ?

Here is a link to it's location, N1 in the diagram.

https://karoqs.ru/forum/threads/154/

 

The pump will only start to work once the sleeve becomes un-stuck.

But at least it won't stick again with the valve disconnected.

 

They usually do seem to unstick themselves once the engine gets overheated.

 

Nothing to loose.

this pump is belt driven and has a electric solenoid on

are you saying it has 2 mechanical pumps?

im a bit confused. 

or the connection is just above the only pump it has fitted thats cambelt driven.

 

ps if that cures it do i leave it unplugged or get it changed again ?

4 minutes ago, Jimoct said:

this pump is belt driven and has a electric solenoid on

are you saying it has 2 mechanical pumps?

im a bit confused. 

or the connection is just above the only pump it has fitted thats cambelt driven.

 

I believe the engine has 3 pumps.

 

A charge cooler pump ( electrical ), a cabin heater pump ( electrical ), & main engine coolant pump ( mechanically driven off the cam belt ) with an electrically controlled sleeve.

 

Disconnect the plug for the N489 valve as shown in the picture link item No 1.

 

Once the sleeve becomes free it won't operate & get stuck again, car can be driven for ever & a day after that or you can get it changed at great expense.

will it put the engine management light on ?

yeah al just drive it like that as long as it dont overheat im not fussed.

crap design supposed to improve reliability not make it worse !

its probably why it was got rid of by the ambulance service.

the thermostat needs replaceing or would you leave it out aswell?

Just now, Jimoct said:

supposed to improve reliability

Nah, it'll just be yet another complication designed to make the engine warm up faster and so score better in emissions testing. 

1 minute ago, Jimoct said:

will it put the engine management light on ?

yeah al just drive it like that as long as it dont overheat im not fussed.

crap design supposed to improve reliability not make it worse !

its probably why it was got rid of by the ambulance service.

the thermostat needs replaceing or would you leave it out aswell?

Once you get the cooling system to start to cool the engine, replace the thermostat.

 

Otherwise the heater will be very poor & the engine will give poor MPG.

will have to take this one back to tps tomorrow.

as its not working.

radiator is starting to warm abit

tip hose still cool thought will but the cambelt cover on and put back together and test it tomorrow.

see if it overheats again.

 

Any news @Jimoct?

Having the same issues in a Scout Octavia 3. Water pump prev changed, had a head gasket test that came positive. Garage says the coolant temperature indicator should not go over 90 and that it’s probably a faulty thermostat and a slight gas leak in the head gasket that might not cause issues if the thermostat works as expected.

I’m replacing the thermostat today, will update if it solves anything.

hi yes

had the cambelt and water pump replaced.

and thermostat.

now perfect.

when they get hot it knackers the thermostat so should be replaced aswell as the cambelt and pump.

the garage that does cambelts for me initially said no as they said belt looks new etc

so after changed thermostat and also took the plastic grommet out of bleed pipe from the radiator  and pulled pipe off stat housing to see if water pumped out which it didnt.

so took it back and said do it.

pump and belt kit from tps was 167.00

charged me 150 to do it.

also skoda updated the cambelt/solenoid pump last march

it was due to the plastic insides breaking off and stopped the pump from working.

fairly common fault on apparently.

the slider inside is now metal.

now all good !

and also thank you to all for replying to my question.

so now i can change gearbox oil and haldex.

ps the belt and pump had done 100k miles.