I was toying with the idea of getting some Osram type-approved LED spotlights for use on our unlit, dark Devon roads (I live at the foot of Dartmoor so it doesn't get much darker). My question is: would they be an easy fit and a case of tapping in to a 12v feed to the main beam to trigger a relay or would the canbus wiring make it more complicated than that? Osram do a couple of different types: a traditional looking round 7" spotlight and a slimline rectangular one that looks like a daytime running light but gives a 190m beam.

 

Anyone fitted anything and can offer any wiring advice?

 

Thanks,

 

Nick

Edited 21 December, 20205 yr by NikTheGeek

Have you thought about the vcds adaptation that makes the fog lights come on with main beam? I seem to remember there being an adaptation just for main beam flash and an extra one for when main beam is turned on. Thought this might be worth considering before you go down the wiring and extra lights route. 

Fog lights do not project much light ahead so I don't think think they would add the sort of road illumination the OP is looking for.

 

I've only got halogens I find them adequate on our Australian non illuminated country roads but only in the dry, which is most of the time  

The other problem we have is that we have long straight stretches of road so even though the oncoming traffic may be kilometres away it is really anti-social to run the high beams, which does not stop some people.

 

 

5 hours ago, growntree said:

Have you thought about the vcds adaptation that makes the fog lights come on with main beam? I seem to remember there being an adaptation just for main beam flash and an extra one for when main beam is turned on. Thought this might be worth considering before you go down the wiring and extra lights route. 

 

I have that turned on for flash, but not for high beam as unfortunately it would be illegal and an MOT fail and so even if it worked well, it would be a pain to undo for the test. Also I don't think it does work well as I've manually put them on when driving on a dark country lane and it make very little difference. But thanks for the suggestion nontheless, I appreciate the thought!

 

Nick

When you say spot lights, do you mean you want to fully change the headlight or install different bulbs? Presume that you have halogens lights on your car? And if so the full beam is an H15 which is the Daylight running light and full beam combined. 

 

I have just installed Osram Cool Blue Intense H15 in my 2016 SEL that has the standard halogens. As recommended in post earlier in the year.  Quite frankly they are a massive improvement. They are £20 per bulb. I also changed the H7 dipped to Osram Nightbreakers again an improvement over OEM bulbs.

Edited 22 December, 20205 yr by paulski

30 minutes ago, paulski said:

When you say spot lights, do you mean you want to fully change the headlight or install different bulbs? Presume that you have halogens lights on your car? And if so the full beam is an H15 which is the Daylight running light and full beam combined. 

 

I have just installed Osram Cool Blue Intense H15 in my 2016 SEL that has the standard halogens. As recommended in post earlier in the year.  Quite frankly they are a massive improvement. They are £20 per bulb. I also changed the H7 dipped to Osram Nightbreakers again an improvement over OEM bulbs.

 

Additional driving lamps/spotlights. Like the old Hella round spots of old that you'd see on rally cars, but something smaller, modern, LED and road legal for use as "additional driving lamps"

 

This is the slim one: https://www.osram.com/ecat/Lightbar SX180-SP-LED driving lights-Car lighting-Automotive/com/en/GPS01_3238210/ZMP_4058235/

This is the round one: https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/lighting/spot-lights/round-spot-lamps/7-inch-round-full-led-spotdriving-light-12v24v-maypole-mp5076

 

Nick

Ah now I see what you're after. ..for going rallying..

1 hour ago, paulski said:

Ah now I see what you're after. ..for going rallying..

 

With the roads we have in the South Hams, its exactly like that, apart from the speed part. Narrow lanes you'd struggle to get a Micra through, no tarmac in places, high hedges so you can't see. No straight bits. Hence the desire for better lighting - but I fear canbus might make it harder than I hope

http://rallylamps.com/led-spotlight-rally-kit/

You could bypass the canbus by having a solenoid switched supply direct from the battery and a separate switch in the cabin - not an auto solution but relatively easy to wire.

What about fitting a decent LED lightbar behind the lower grille, under the number plate?

 

Trigger it via a relay with main beam, but have a switch somewhere in the cabin to disable it?

 

I've done exactly this on my Amarok. 

Maybe something like this could work for you? Got the bits from ebay for about £50 (light bar, mount & wiring harness with storage switch). I had it on my old car and it was a massive improvement. BMW on the left, Kangoo on the right has an even longer bar attached to roof bar. 

If I had a switch to disable it, then for MOT purposes, the lamps wouldn't have to be Type Approved I suppose...

4 minutes ago, NikTheGeek said:

If I had a switch to disable it, then for MOT purposes, the lamps wouldn't have to be Type Approved I suppose...

I can't edit my post and see i have a typo. What i meant to say was that the wiring harness came with its own separate switch, so could be totally independent of the cars wiring system only needing a power source and ground connection. Over here I don't believe it would be an NCT fail so I cut out the switch and got a trigger from the high beam circuit for ease of use. 

For UK MOT's Spot / Driving Lights / Auxiliary lights are not part of the it.

But then they need to be on separate switches and not coming on with the dipped or full beam when tested.

 

So lights for Offroad or onroad where not dazzling other road users, be that in vehicles, foot or bicycle, and especially not some Police Officer that might be parked up watching for 

speeders, drink drivers or people that can not get up the road at the safe speed with the use of just full beam and legal spot / driving lights if required.

this is not trivial because CANBus means there's no trigger when Xenons are installed and I'm not too sure how it works for Halogens. The "easiest" way is probably to reprogram the BCM to push one of its outputs to high when you trigger high beam and then allow the relay to switch. LEDs I would assume are in the same category and require the BCM change.

 

For lights you might find this useful; https://valovertailu.com/lisavalovertailu-2018-2019/#prettyPhoto. Scroll down for the photos.

 

190m is poor, to be honest. I was looking at a pair of Seeker 20s for the Octy; the 1 lux border is at around 400m. I would also stick to a max reference of 100 so you don't get in trouble if you do decide to drive across to the continent.

 

 - Bret

Edited 29 December, 20205 yr by brettikivi

I have the same problem as Nick will have if he goes ahead.  Picked up a pair of Cibie LED super oscars for a ridiculous price ( 2 for $ 150 normally $400 each ) and just could not resist.  Had several sets of Halogen Super oscars in the '70s so there's a bit of nostalgia there.

I  have Xenon's on the 2015 Scout premium which are great but you can always use more light here on Gippsland rural roads.

I believe I can tap the white/black wire in the headlight that triggers the gate that opens for High beam and use it to trigger a relay. 

Question is where is the best place to tap a 12 v source? under the bonnet, preferably fused.

Is there a  hole in the firewall so I can get a wire to a switch? 

Can i get a switch that will fit the panel in front of the gear stick?

How do I mount the lights?  I have a number plate light mount but it will need stabilisers as these lights are big ( 9" ) and relatively heavy.

All suggestions welcome