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Front/Rear Speaker/Tweeter Upgrade Yeti

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I think the rear speakers in my Yeti are 5" and one has gone down/stopped working properly to the point I have turned the rears off in the fader. I have always thought the sound was rubbish and not unto the same quality as the head unit so decided to upgrade them all. Looking around it would seem not many do this making the job even harder. I have bought a small amp to just drive everything a bit stronger (plug play not installed yet) and have had advice on tweeters front and speakers but as the rears are 5" I am unsure if I can get adaptors etc to fit 6.5" anyone done anything like this yet?

 

Respectfully: I have no interest in being told the standard system is great and the best thing ever installed in a car! Having several cars and historically some specy Volvos amongst others with surround sound experience, the Yeti is very bad compared to almost anything else. My car, my money, my choices ;-) Thanks for understanding and not posting on the feed rubbish that I have no interest in!

What spec is your Yeti? I have poverty S spec with no rear speakers fitted. 

For a first post I don't think a lot of it and you are the first I have used the ignore user button on.
The spec of the cars you have in your profile and yet need to ask about speakers!

@McGee01 can't help I'm afraid, but its a job I may attempt at some point myself. Do share any info you come across :thumbup:

 

Whats the plug and play amp you've got?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

I have listed all parts at bottom of post and maybe someone might find the info useful.

 

1st thing to note is that the standard speakers are in my opinion poor quality 7" I know some may disagree, if you like listening to the radio without a full round sound and fluffing speakers then this post isn't for you as standard set-up clearly will be good enough ;-).

 

Deciding that I wanted to do a sound overall nearly as soon as I bought my Yeti I decided to replace mine with quality 6.5" sets of speakers rather than the poor 7" ones & these require reducer adaptor rings/standoffs, 7" quality speakers are far more expensive than 6.5" ones and for me not worth the extra £3-500 it is also worth noting that the original speakers/surrounds are rivet fitted, a drill and rivet gun will be needed to do the job. I did try modding the first surround but realised after a lot of cutting and finishing that for the cost it just want worth the time involved to make the reduction needed 4 times. 

 

For front I went Helix audiotex S62C 100w RMS component speakers, these come with a great tweeter also and priced at £218 (made an offer) I thought fairly good price for what is a decent speaker. I tried to initially mount the tweeters from the front dremelling out a hole to fit the enlarged tweeter to find once trail fitted that the cover doesn't fit. The correct/easiest way is to remove the original tweeter (Thinners pored round the glue left for a minute allows the glue to release with a bit of sensible pushing so as not to break the surround (thumb press in enough) then simple heat glue the new tweeter to the rear, all fits no issue and no cutting etc. You will see what I mean when you try this. I should also say that I have used the original loom to drive everything bar some adaptor cables I bought. To the rear fitting is easier and I went again for a decent speaker that will generate a bit more depth than the fronts to give a more full overall sound. Hertz MP 165.3 Mille Pro 6.5" woofers 100w RMS again replacing the 7" standard ones, these were in comparison quite a cost effective upgrade and priced at £135 again I feel great value. The adaptors are needed again in the rears along with drill and rivet gun, but fitting is much quicker than the from as I didn't fit additional tweeters.

 

Fired up the sounds and the before and after are properly chalk and cheese.  For most this would be a great upgrade and fulfil a general speaker upgrade. Well for me  yes I was happy with the general sound and depth but it just lacked a touch of punch, so decided to fit a small amp so that I could drive the sound lower down (amps are not all about making systems louder although obviously they will also do that. I opted for a Match PP 62DSP £375 (so not the cheapest thing) because it comes with the cambus loom to fit straight in (as plug and play) there are specific head unit adaptors which my supplier sent as well included making this install almost too easy. That is until you want to get the head unit out! Watch on YouTube really, but long and short you have to trim remove the surround that goes around all the heating controls and a bit of other trim to reveal the size 5 star fixings so you can lift it out to connect the looms. My starting the system back up and setting all the sounds left me verbally saying WOW what a difference! Without the amp I was 100% happy so going further is just cream. The problem this then created in sound was some of the warmth was taken.

 

Now understand that I use my car to tow a race car so boot space is important for tools & stuff when going on events so my next and final decision was based on compromise rather than just outright correctness as it where. To get some warmth and full roundness, to the now awesome system I decided to fit an sub woofer (the amp and system I used supports this). I hunted high and low for what I thought would be a good balanced sub that could be fastened to the back of the rear seat. I eventually decided after many hours hunting and researching to go for a under-seat sub (yes can be fitted upright no problem). My choice the Soundstorm (SSL) LOPRO10 1200w Subwoofer priced sensibly at £139 which I assure you in sound belies its concept and size for a 10 inch sub! I am not trying to move enough air to get the windows to pop out bear in mind, but create a sound in car with full range and surround like capable warm strong feel you may get in a car like a Volvo or BMW with quality upgrade systems. I also bought a subwoofer wiring kit link below.

 

Conclusion: Was it worth doing and the cost? Yes 100% completely transforms the cars standard sound whilst retailing the factory head unit which to be honest is very good in my car as it has nav/media etc... Would I do it again or different? Actually no, I found a recipe that worked 1st time! Having family in the car means we listen to everything from Garage/House/Rock music right across the range of general pop to the wheels on the bus go round and round, so does it all and does it well!

 

I thought for some you may want to cherrypick some of these upgrades as time goes buy so you set out the links to the original sources of the bits although I understand these will stop working over time which is why I listed the names of everything also in the post.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELIX-Audiotec-Fischer-S-62C-6-5-100w-RMS-Component-Speaker-set/233202058660?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hertz-MP-165-3-Mille-Pro-6-5-165mm-Car-Midrange-Woofer-Speakers-Set-100w-RMS/333103856768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-Match-Amp-harness-Package-PP62DSP-FREE-PP-AC-Harness-Cable/233162543995?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item364992137b:g:XvYAAOSwdC5chV6E&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB82EhrALHtaP7GJJs%2B9u0853ULURJVVt3H3bLvjqHPBo%2BeWxKlDI4Ak1duL7ippcBoZA%2BvYhLm%2Bu324ApumfoxWX7zj%2FHlSB5d55pA6V2vPC59qMaBivGNgs53xqeQBCkO5vasgb2Gf9YUgr9BKfnY7A%2BLMApR9XPpMGwzIRam74Dchlel0fAFPjbvuQ3TvGWBlpkIf0rgMxqkwEI418VV0xUeJtgSaOE%2F%2Fqh2zuDkNHWSmcHEdYcQM%2FjSqBPY2P4k9wRtgZMH6TQLBrnsPTbMGUYLPb0igS2asSPdryQSbxXI%2BekUPk9lhAZF901zcRPoin2MJ7MQZTO7PYPheQeGvmvojGy2TNHJeLQOj9QwNSoosdEt9VXPUufieSsGeKLaOVNubzt%2FhQa%2BWWbtOtuD%2BSbDfJ0JBsU6uWUV1QColmu3wX3pxcZbNnFfkB%2FcdPCYZ55OBaGl89trVlHfN%2BSTGb9rewHG4eRmiC1odyBL4lkB%2BNmhKf9BzKwU0HB9AhgB9HwByolGgDQZodWg1ByjwGR8Pwd04MOQREoB%2F8x5GSKpz%2F5ZXPTMu2hEHywakgeNWUToG5jUm8bcrIGCPip7VknDE2hbciiSjVOx6dV0NpUJciEoJAShTNf6TITJF%2B5%2BWN59XbSybrl2lBgqLH3n3TvXZp6GVid%2B4oOjEa5u64YScWQB6bsOLaMjxBO8L2gnDstobz%2BKGBA4zc5tPBAVaiM724b6dJGNUC2Yu44P2MxYR94F32j4SOrGgz1F2lrA%3D%3D|cksum%3A2331625439950ff325f3d0f447f0a91b9a7e3b7a9884|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/10IN-1200W-LOW-PROF-SUB/dp/B001CY13W2

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1200-Watts-Complete-8-AWG-Gauge-Car-Amplifier-Amp-Wire-Sub-Subwoofer-Wiring-Kit/264990735143?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-speaker-wiring-plugs-Yeti-Plug-Play-speaker-adaptor-connector-leads/133548878106?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/search.html?search=CT25VW16

  • Author
On 17/01/2021 at 12:30, Urrell said:

For a first post I don't think a lot of it and you are the first I have used the ignore user button on.
The spec of the cars you have in your profile and yet need to ask about speakers!

Lots of people offer opinion rather than facts and the latter is what I was hunting for. I have now created a user friendly answer to all that want to do this job which will avoid all the other people in other posts just saying how good the system is from factory, fine for them and maybe you, but not me.. I don't care about been muted of blocked the internet is a big place with millions of people and you cant please them all.. in case you ever come across someone who has blocked me/not found this post you will be able to give them facts based on knowledge rather than opinions now. I wish you well in your intercepting endeavours.

 

I have listed all parts at bottom of post and maybe someone might find the info useful.

 

1st thing to note is that the standard speakers are in my opinion poor quality 7" I know some may disagree, if you like listening to the radio without a full round sound and fluffing speakers then this post isn't for you as standard set-up clearly will be good enough ;-).

 

Deciding that I wanted to do a sound overall nearly as soon as I bought my Yeti I decided to replace mine with quality 6.5" sets of speakers rather than the poor 7" ones & these require reducer adaptor rings/standoffs, 7" quality speakers are far more expensive than 6.5" ones and for me not worth the extra £3-500 it is also worth noting that the original speakers/surrounds are rivet fitted, a drill and rivet gun will be needed to do the job. I did try modding the first surround but realised after a lot of cutting and finishing that for the cost it just want worth the time involved to make the reduction needed 4 times. 

 

For front I went Helix audiotex S62C 100w RMS component speakers, these come with a great tweeter also and priced at £218 (made an offer) I thought fairly good price for what is a decent speaker. I tried to initially mount the tweeters from the front dremelling out a hole to fit the enlarged tweeter to find once trail fitted that the cover doesn't fit. The correct/easiest way is to remove the original tweeter (Thinners pored round the glue left for a minute allows the glue to release with a bit of sensible pushing so as not to break the surround (thumb press in enough) then simple heat glue the new tweeter to the rear, all fits no issue and no cutting etc. You will see what I mean when you try this. I should also say that I have used the original loom to drive everything bar some adaptor cables I bought. To the rear fitting is easier and I went again for a decent speaker that will generate a bit more depth than the fronts to give a more full overall sound. Hertz MP 165.3 Mille Pro 6.5" woofers 100w RMS again replacing the 7" standard ones, these were in comparison quite a cost effective upgrade and priced at £135 again I feel great value. The adaptors are needed again in the rears along with drill and rivet gun, but fitting is much quicker than the from as I didn't fit additional tweeters.

 

Fired up the sounds and the before and after are properly chalk and cheese.  For most this would be a great upgrade and fulfil a general speaker upgrade. Well for me  yes I was happy with the general sound and depth but it just lacked a touch of punch, so decided to fit a small amp so that I could drive the sound lower down (amps are not all about making systems louder although obviously they will also do that. I opted for a Match PP 62DSP £375 (so not the cheapest thing) because it comes with the cambus loom to fit straight in (as plug and play) there are specific head unit adaptors which my supplier sent as well included making this install almost too easy. That is until you want to get the head unit out! Watch on YouTube really, but long and short you have to trim remove the surround that goes around all the heating controls and a bit of other trim to reveal the size 5 star fixings so you can lift it out to connect the looms. My starting the system back up and setting all the sounds left me verbally saying WOW what a difference! Without the amp I was 100% happy so going further is just cream. The problem this then created in sound was some of the warmth was taken.

 

Now understand that I use my car to tow a race car so boot space is important for tools & stuff when going on events so my next and final decision was based on compromise rather than just outright correctness as it where. To get some warmth and full roundness, to the now awesome system I decided to fit an sub woofer (the amp and system I used supports this). I hunted high and low for what I thought would be a good balanced sub that could be fastened to the back of the rear seat. I eventually decided after many hours hunting and researching to go for a under-seat sub (yes can be fitted upright no problem). My choice the Soundstorm (SSL) LOPRO10 1200w Subwoofer priced sensibly at £139 which I assure you in sound belies its concept and size for a 10 inch sub! I am not trying to move enough air to get the windows to pop out bear in mind, but create a sound in car with full range and surround like capable warm strong feel you may get in a car like a Volvo or BMW with quality upgrade systems. I also bought a subwoofer wiring kit link below.

 

Conclusion: Was it worth doing and the cost? Yes 100% completely transforms the cars standard sound whilst retailing the factory head unit which to be honest is very good in my car as it has nav/media etc... Would I do it again or different? Actually no, I found a recipe that worked 1st time! Having family in the car means we listen to everything from Garage/House/Rock music right across the range of general pop to the wheels on the bus go round and round, so does it all and does it well!

 

I thought for some you may want to cherrypick some of these upgrades as time goes buy so you set out the links to the original sources of the bits although I understand these will stop working over time which is why I listed the names of everything also in the post.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELIX-Audiotec-Fischer-S-62C-6-5-100w-RMS-Component-Speaker-set/233202058660?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hertz-MP-165-3-Mille-Pro-6-5-165mm-Car-Midrange-Woofer-Speakers-Set-100w-RMS/333103856768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-Match-Amp-harness-Package-PP62DSP-FREE-PP-AC-Harness-Cable/233162543995?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item364992137b:g:XvYAAOSwdC5chV6E&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB82EhrALHtaP7GJJs%2B9u0853ULURJVVt3H3bLvjqHPBo%2BeWxKlDI4Ak1duL7ippcBoZA%2BvYhLm%2Bu324ApumfoxWX7zj%2FHlSB5d55pA6V2vPC59qMaBivGNgs53xqeQBCkO5vasgb2Gf9YUgr9BKfnY7A%2BLMApR9XPpMGwzIRam74Dchlel0fAFPjbvuQ3TvGWBlpkIf0rgMxqkwEI418VV0xUeJtgSaOE%2F%2Fqh2zuDkNHWSmcHEdYcQM%2FjSqBPY2P4k9wRtgZMH6TQLBrnsPTbMGUYLPb0igS2asSPdryQSbxXI%2BekUPk9lhAZF901zcRPoin2MJ7MQZTO7PYPheQeGvmvojGy2TNHJeLQOj9QwNSoosdEt9VXPUufieSsGeKLaOVNubzt%2FhQa%2BWWbtOtuD%2BSbDfJ0JBsU6uWUV1QColmu3wX3pxcZbNnFfkB%2FcdPCYZ55OBaGl89trVlHfN%2BSTGb9rewHG4eRmiC1odyBL4lkB%2BNmhKf9BzKwU0HB9AhgB9HwByolGgDQZodWg1ByjwGR8Pwd04MOQREoB%2F8x5GSKpz%2F5ZXPTMu2hEHywakgeNWUToG5jUm8bcrIGCPip7VknDE2hbciiSjVOx6dV0NpUJciEoJAShTNf6TITJF%2B5%2BWN59XbSybrl2lBgqLH3n3TvXZp6GVid%2B4oOjEa5u64YScWQB6bsOLaMjxBO8L2gnDstobz%2BKGBA4zc5tPBAVaiM724b6dJGNUC2Yu44P2MxYR94F32j4SOrGgz1F2lrA%3D%3D|cksum%3A2331625439950ff325f3d0f447f0a91b9a7e3b7a9884|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/10IN-1200W-LOW-PROF-SUB/dp/B001CY13W2

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1200-Watts-Complete-8-AWG-Gauge-Car-Amplifier-Amp-Wire-Sub-Subwoofer-Wiring-Kit/264990735143?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-speaker-wiring-plugs-Yeti-Plug-Play-speaker-adaptor-connector-leads/133548878106?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/search.html?search=CT25VW16

 

3 hours ago, McGee01 said:

I have listed all parts at bottom of post and maybe someone might find the info useful.

 

1st thing to note is that the standard speakers are in my opinion poor quality 7" I know some may disagree, if you like listening to the radio without a full round sound and fluffing speakers then this post isn't for you as standard set-up clearly will be good enough ;-).

 

Deciding that I wanted to do a sound overall nearly as soon as I bought my Yeti I decided to replace mine with quality 6.5" sets of speakers rather than the poor 7" ones & these require reducer adaptor rings/standoffs, 7" quality speakers are far more expensive than 6.5" ones and for me not worth the extra £3-500 it is also worth noting that the original speakers/surrounds are rivet fitted, a drill and rivet gun will be needed to do the job. I did try modding the first surround but realised after a lot of cutting and finishing that for the cost it just want worth the time involved to make the reduction needed 4 times. 

 

For front I went Helix audiotex S62C 100w RMS component speakers, these come with a great tweeter also and priced at £218 (made an offer) I thought fairly good price for what is a decent speaker. I tried to initially mount the tweeters from the front dremelling out a hole to fit the enlarged tweeter to find once trail fitted that the cover doesn't fit. The correct/easiest way is to remove the original tweeter (Thinners pored round the glue left for a minute allows the glue to release with a bit of sensible pushing so as not to break the surround (thumb press in enough) then simple heat glue the new tweeter to the rear, all fits no issue and no cutting etc. You will see what I mean when you try this. I should also say that I have used the original loom to drive everything bar some adaptor cables I bought. To the rear fitting is easier and I went again for a decent speaker that will generate a bit more depth than the fronts to give a more full overall sound. Hertz MP 165.3 Mille Pro 6.5" woofers 100w RMS again replacing the 7" standard ones, these were in comparison quite a cost effective upgrade and priced at £135 again I feel great value. The adaptors are needed again in the rears along with drill and rivet gun, but fitting is much quicker than the from as I didn't fit additional tweeters.

 

Fired up the sounds and the before and after are properly chalk and cheese.  For most this would be a great upgrade and fulfil a general speaker upgrade. Well for me  yes I was happy with the general sound and depth but it just lacked a touch of punch, so decided to fit a small amp so that I could drive the sound lower down (amps are not all about making systems louder although obviously they will also do that. I opted for a Match PP 62DSP £375 (so not the cheapest thing) because it comes with the cambus loom to fit straight in (as plug and play) there are specific head unit adaptors which my supplier sent as well included making this install almost too easy. That is until you want to get the head unit out! Watch on YouTube really, but long and short you have to trim remove the surround that goes around all the heating controls and a bit of other trim to reveal the size 5 star fixings so you can lift it out to connect the looms. My starting the system back up and setting all the sounds left me verbally saying WOW what a difference! Without the amp I was 100% happy so going further is just cream. The problem this then created in sound was some of the warmth was taken.

 

Now understand that I use my car to tow a race car so boot space is important for tools & stuff when going on events so my next and final decision was based on compromise rather than just outright correctness as it where. To get some warmth and full roundness, to the now awesome system I decided to fit an sub woofer (the amp and system I used supports this). I hunted high and low for what I thought would be a good balanced sub that could be fastened to the back of the rear seat. I eventually decided after many hours hunting and researching to go for a under-seat sub (yes can be fitted upright no problem). My choice the Soundstorm (SSL) LOPRO10 1200w Subwoofer priced sensibly at £139 which I assure you in sound belies its concept and size for a 10 inch sub! I am not trying to move enough air to get the windows to pop out bear in mind, but create a sound in car with full range and surround like capable warm strong feel you may get in a car like a Volvo or BMW with quality upgrade systems. I also bought a subwoofer wiring kit link below.

 

Conclusion: Was it worth doing and the cost? Yes 100% completely transforms the cars standard sound whilst retailing the factory head unit which to be honest is very good in my car as it has nav/media etc... Would I do it again or different? Actually no, I found a recipe that worked 1st time! Having family in the car means we listen to everything from Garage/House/Rock music right across the range of general pop to the wheels on the bus go round and round, so does it all and does it well!

 

I thought for some you may want to cherrypick some of these upgrades as time goes buy so you set out the links to the original sources of the bits although I understand these will stop working over time which is why I listed the names of everything also in the post.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELIX-Audiotec-Fischer-S-62C-6-5-100w-RMS-Component-Speaker-set/233202058660?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hertz-MP-165-3-Mille-Pro-6-5-165mm-Car-Midrange-Woofer-Speakers-Set-100w-RMS/333103856768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-Match-Amp-harness-Package-PP62DSP-FREE-PP-AC-Harness-Cable/233162543995?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item364992137b:g:XvYAAOSwdC5chV6E&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB82EhrALHtaP7GJJs%2B9u0853ULURJVVt3H3bLvjqHPBo%2BeWxKlDI4Ak1duL7ippcBoZA%2BvYhLm%2Bu324ApumfoxWX7zj%2FHlSB5d55pA6V2vPC59qMaBivGNgs53xqeQBCkO5vasgb2Gf9YUgr9BKfnY7A%2BLMApR9XPpMGwzIRam74Dchlel0fAFPjbvuQ3TvGWBlpkIf0rgMxqkwEI418VV0xUeJtgSaOE%2F%2Fqh2zuDkNHWSmcHEdYcQM%2FjSqBPY2P4k9wRtgZMH6TQLBrnsPTbMGUYLPb0igS2asSPdryQSbxXI%2BekUPk9lhAZF901zcRPoin2MJ7MQZTO7PYPheQeGvmvojGy2TNHJeLQOj9QwNSoosdEt9VXPUufieSsGeKLaOVNubzt%2FhQa%2BWWbtOtuD%2BSbDfJ0JBsU6uWUV1QColmu3wX3pxcZbNnFfkB%2FcdPCYZ55OBaGl89trVlHfN%2BSTGb9rewHG4eRmiC1odyBL4lkB%2BNmhKf9BzKwU0HB9AhgB9HwByolGgDQZodWg1ByjwGR8Pwd04MOQREoB%2F8x5GSKpz%2F5ZXPTMu2hEHywakgeNWUToG5jUm8bcrIGCPip7VknDE2hbciiSjVOx6dV0NpUJciEoJAShTNf6TITJF%2B5%2BWN59XbSybrl2lBgqLH3n3TvXZp6GVid%2B4oOjEa5u64YScWQB6bsOLaMjxBO8L2gnDstobz%2BKGBA4zc5tPBAVaiM724b6dJGNUC2Yu44P2MxYR94F32j4SOrGgz1F2lrA%3D%3D|cksum%3A2331625439950ff325f3d0f447f0a91b9a7e3b7a9884|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/10IN-1200W-LOW-PROF-SUB/dp/B001CY13W2

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1200-Watts-Complete-8-AWG-Gauge-Car-Amplifier-Amp-Wire-Sub-Subwoofer-Wiring-Kit/264990735143?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-speaker-wiring-plugs-Yeti-Plug-Play-speaker-adaptor-connector-leads/133548878106?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/search.html?search=CT25VW16

 

Thanks for the info, this is a mod I'm looking to do on my S spec 2010 Yeti. 

 

You don't say what spec level your 4X4 is, did you have speaker looms in the back doors from the factory or did you have to route the wiring from the headunit?

 

For the record, I had no issues with your first post - if certain individuals who consider the forum their personal domain are quick to take offence, just use the ignore button 

 

 

  • Author

Thanks for the support! I have a Elegance spec car so do have the speakers already in the rear making my job easier. I should also say that I did fit the rears speakers listed but took a touch more faffing about given I mistakenly thought front and rear were the same when the rears were only 5.5" (I did the fit over 3 weekends). I have also now refitted some JBL tweeters 45w/50w RMS as the ones that came with the S62C's wasn't quite handling the new power levels on higher levels. Now I have this done the system blows your head off, literally makes your ears hurt lol. I don't have it cranked up often but from very low to full chat it now has a completely rounded full sound. I am very happy I took the trouble and hope the post helps others in the future. 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-SPKCB3412T/dp/B07XRHF5W6/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=jbl+tweeters&qid=1613290149&rnid=1642204031&s=electronics&sr=1-2

On 17/01/2021 at 16:35, Shaunieboy said:

@McGee01 can't help I'm afraid, but its a job I may attempt at some point myself. Do share any info you come across :thumbup:

 

Whats the plug and play amp you've got?

Link from the post buddy.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-Match-Amp-harness-Package-PP62DSP-FREE-PP-AC-Harness-Cable/233162543995?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item364992137b:g:XvYAAOSwdC5chV6E&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB82EhrALHtaP7GJJs%2B9u0853ULURJVVt3H3bLvjqHPBo%2BeWxKlDI4Ak1duL7ippcBoZA%2BvYhLm%2Bu324ApumfoxWX7zj%2FHlSB5d55pA6V2vPC59qMaBivGNgs53xqeQBCkO5vasgb2Gf9YUgr9BKfnY7A%2BLMApR9XPpMGwzIRam74Dchlel0fAFPjbvuQ3TvGWBlpkIf0rgMxqkwEI418VV0xUeJtgSaOE%2F%2Fqh2zuDkNHWSmcHEdYcQM%2FjSqBPY2P4k9wRtgZMH6TQLBrnsPTbMGUYLPb0igS2asSPdryQSbxXI%2BekUPk9lhAZF901zcRPoin2MJ7MQZTO7PYPheQeGvmvojGy2TNHJeLQOj9QwNSoosdEt9VXPUufieSsGeKLaOVNubzt%2FhQa%2BWWbtOtuD%2BSbDfJ0JBsU6uWUV1QColmu3wX3pxcZbNnFfkB%2FcdPCYZ55OBaGl89trVlHfN%2BSTGb9rewHG4eRmiC1odyBL4lkB%2BNmhKf9BzKwU0HB9AhgB9HwByolGgDQZodWg1ByjwGR8Pwd04MOQREoB%2F8x5GSKpz%2F5ZXPTMu2hEHywakgeNWUToG5jUm8bcrIGCPip7VknDE2hbciiSjVOx6dV0NpUJciEoJAShTNf6TITJF%2B5%2BWN59XbSybrl2lBgqLH3n3TvXZp6GVid%2B4oOjEa5u64YScWQB6bsOLaMjxBO8L2gnDstobz%2BKGBA4zc5tPBAVaiM724b6dJGNUC2Yu44P2MxYR94F32j4SOrGgz1F2lrA%3D%3D|cksum%3A2331625439950ff325f3d0f447f0a91b9a7e3b7a9884|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

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