Hi Guys,

Hope everybody is well.

 

I was wondering if anybody had an ideas as to what could be the culprit to this issue.

 

The car randomly starts clicking unlock repeatedly and doesn't stop until either the battery completely dies or I intervene by starting the car and locking the doors from the inside as though to "reset" it.

 

Also this has only started this last couple of weeks with freezing temps

 

Any help is, as always, very much appreciated

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does anybody think it's battery related?

 

I was supplied a Yuasa YBX3075 by a garage a couple of years ago in an emergency when my last battery died out of nowhere.

 

Does it matter what battery a car has and if so, is this one strong enough for my car?

 

Thanks,

Tom

No, not battery related.

30 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

No, not battery related.

Oh right, what do you reckon it is then Sep?

18 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

Oh right, what do you reckon it is then Sep?

 

I reckon it's the wiring in the door bellows, cold weather makes it really stiff and brittle.

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I reckon it's the wiring in the door bellows, cold weather makes it really stiff and brittle.

Is there anything I can do to stop it or do I just need to manage it as best I can until this cold snap passes?

7 minutes ago, Tomjones1995 said:

Is there anything I can do to stop it or do I just need to manage it as best I can until this cold snap passes?

 

You need to find and repair the broken wire, someone may be able to tell you which one it's likely to be by looking at the wiring diagram or copy/pasting it here for you, I don't have a copy so I can't be more specific.

2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

You need to find and repair the broken wire, someone may be able to tell you which one it's likely to be by looking at the wiring diagram or copy/pasting it here for you, I don't have a copy so I can't be more specific.

Oh right okay, thanks for your help Sep!

Hello again guys, Just a quick update.

 

The problem I believe must of been the door bellows as the rubber hose/tube protecting the wires had come away from the main body of the car and was probably leaving the wires exposed to all that frost we had. It's all fixed now though so thanks.

 

I do have a shirt quick question unrelated to this but I don't want to start a while new thread for it.

 

I'm after a remap and darkside reckon I need a fmic for stage 1 because of inlet air temps getting too high. Is this true or false? Absolute requirement or just ideal?

 

Appreciate any input on this please guys.

 

Tom

 

Ideal, not essential, touting for extra work at a quiet time of year.

9 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Ideal, not essential, touting for extra work at a quiet time of year.

That's great news Sep! Do you reckon I'd be good for 170bhp with a standard side mounted intercooler without compromising reliability or would the engine get head swamped?

 

Thanks again,

Tom

Depends, a torque limited remap to preserve the standard clutch would be sensible unless you know it's already been replaced.

29 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Depends, a torque limited remap to preserve the standard clutch would be sensible unless you know it's already been replaced.

 

Brand new Clutch and DMF is being fitted in the next few weeks.

 

What do we think? It'l be on 170k by the time I would have the map done. Too high mileage, too late?

 

I trust all of your opinions after my HG business a couple years ago and obviously after doing so much work on it getting it up to a decent standard, I wouldn't want to kill it from a remap but would love one if it's safe to do so.

 

Thanks,

Tom

At 170k I would have a torque limited remap to help preserve the aging drive train, a peaky map would hasten the demise of the gearbox and driveshafts not to mention the turbo itself,  it's still 165 BHP which is a useful increase anyway.

8 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

At 170k I would have a torque limited remap to help preserve the aging drive train, a peaky map would hasten the demise of the gearbox and driveshafts not to mention the turbo itself,  it's still 165 BHP which is a useful increase anyway.

Thanks for the help Sep! 👍