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Offside door locks and all windows stopped working

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Hi,

 

Have a 2012 Yeti 1.2 TSi Plus that we 'd had for 7 years.  First issue with it has just occurred (not bad going really).

 

Since yesterday, the driver's side front and rear doors are not opening on the remote, or from inside. No electric windows are working (from the driver's side buttons in any rate).  

 

I suspected a fuse but maybe loom related?
Or maybe battery is on the way out, but the passenger side doors both lock/unlock ok.

Not sure what else is not working, if anything. The car still starts and the lights still work, I haven't tried anything else.
 

Thanks,

Jon

Check the loom between the A pillar and drivers door by carefully pulling the rubber boot back.
A known fail point.

  • Author
On 24/11/2021 at 19:09, Urrell said:

Check the loom between the A pillar and drivers door by carefully pulling the rubber boot back.
A known fail point.

An immediate issue with this course of action.  I can't get the door open.

 

To recap and a further update

- Remote (tried both keys) is only unlocking passenger side doors, boot and fuel cap, not driver's door nor driver's side rear passenger door

- The key will not turn in the lock so cannot open the door with the key (tried the key both ways up)

- Tried banging the lock from outside with it notionally unlocked (button pressed and passenger side doors unlocked) but that didn't do anything

- Cannot open the driver's door nor driver's side rear passenger doors with the handle from the inside

- Tried banging the doors from the inside, with and without holding the door handles up, and that didn't work either.  Tried front and rear.

- The red 'locked' indicator light the locked light on the driver's door is out, whether the doors are locked or unlocked.

 

Any other ways to try and get the driver's door or driver's side rear passenger door open?

We don't have the child locks on in the back.

 

We've had a run of below freezing temps overnight and just above freezing temps during the day.  That might have something to do with it but the passenger side doors open easily enough I can't think they are frozen on the driver's side.

 

Thanks,

Jon

 

5 hours ago, jonmad said:

An immediate issue with this course of action.  I can't get the door open.

 

Any other ways to try and get the driver's door or driver's side rear passenger door open?

The drivers door should unlock and open with the key, you say that it wont turn in the lock, have you ever tried it before and did it work then?

 

If so then some lubrication and maybe heat according to your temperatures, if you have never tried it then maybe the lock barrel had been replaced with an off the shelf one & not correct cylinder configured to your key number, are there any spare keys that you have?

 

I would expect the failure to be in the drivers door loop unless all your journeys are done with a passenger.

  • Author
10 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The drivers door should unlock and open with the key, you say that it wont turn in the lock, have you ever tried it before and did it work then?

 

If so then some lubrication and maybe heat according to your temperatures, if you have never tried it then maybe the lock barrel had been replaced with an off the shelf one & not correct cylinder configured to your key number, are there any spare keys that you have?

 

I would expect the failure to be in the drivers door loop unless all your journeys are done with a passenger.

 

Thank you J.R.  

 

Well well.  I just spent 20 mins sat in the car on this cold day with the engine running trying, unsuccessfully, to get the Car Scanner app connected via a bluetooth dongle into the OBD port (aside - this combination works on my Fabia).  Just as I was giving up and about to climb back out of the passenger seat your post above arrived.  I tried again outside and to my surprise the key worked, operating the central locking as expected.  Then the remote worked.  Several times.  

 

Not that it's relevant now but we've had the car 7 years and one owner before that so I can sat with some confidence that keys/locks all original. 

 

So is it some dodgy connection in here somewhere, that doesn't like the cold?  How do I get the rubber boot off - a screwdriver into the detent at the top on the car body side?

 

Thanks,

Jon

2021-11-26 13.58.06.jpg

That is the boot style that has problems with broken wires.
The new boot hangs in a U shape so the wires don't have to flex so much.
Can you not gently pull it away from the A pillar and door to check wires inside?

  • Author

Thanks, yes, I’ve seen a picture of the later, U-shaped ones, from 2013 or so?

 

i rang my local dealer for a quote but they didn’t get back to me.

 

Will try again tomorrow to get the boot off.

 

 Thanks 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Update.  I figured rather than mess around I'd get the loom changed.

 

Got back in touch with the main dealer, got the part number - 5L0971120GA for my 2012 model - £130+VAT.  Got a crazy labour quote.  Rang my local garage, got a better labour quote, gave them the work.  They also collected the car and returned it, and it coincided with my MOT being due which I'd get them to do anyway.   (aside: MOT passed with just a note about the front brake pads being low - woo-hoo!).

 

I asked to keep the removed loom.  So here it is.

- definitely knackered.

- glad to see that the new one has the U-shaped boot.

 

 

2021-12-10 13.15.11 copy.jpg

2021-12-10 13.15.55 copy.jpg

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