As title I have a code 7E8   &  7E9  come up  1st time they came up I just switched it off waited an  hour and they did not show again. Its not gone into limp mode.

Its an Octavia VRS Mk111.     My code reader will not give me any info or the option to delete them.  Any information  would be helpful as I have a speed awareness course first thing tomorrow.  Yes on a Saturday       Cheers 

A quick look on Google (if you can trust the answers) I've found stuff relating to Fords!  What problems do you actually have with the car, if none drive safely and under speed limits to your course. 

 

"7E8 this is not code but a menu for the engine data stream, you would also have a 7E9 and this is for the transmission. Different scan tool display engine powertrain, transmission powertrain and ABS system. These 3 are control module for the scan tool to read."

 

What scan tool tells you this, sometimes (often) you get what you pay for.  Whatever scan tool you never just take the raw error codes as the full diagnostics you check further.

 

https://obdeleven.com/en/module/xipblog/single?page_type=post&id=31&rewrite=trouble-codes

 

Thanks  nta 16, The wavy coil light came then whet into limp mode, so switched it off/ on that cleared it then this came on with the engine light.  I have the little Autel  Maxi Scan  Code Reader.   No problems with how it drives.      Not good with teck so going the use The Wrench's  205 GTi  1-9 of course    Cheers

 

Sounds like it's the glow plugs, pre-heating, warning light but a few basics first (others may jump straight into glow plugs and that might be it but you need more checking first).

 

Good info with your model (vRS and GTi and you're on a speed awareness course, is it you or I stereotype matching) but if you could add the year or model (MY) of your car to your details it could help in future.

 

Does your Autel  Maxi, cover Skoda (VW) to read from?  Did it show a yellow or read on the lights below its screen?  Did  you connect it to your computer for updates before using?

 

If you can use it view freeze frame is useful for fault info.

 

Now to your issue, I think the glow coils light flashes if it's going in Limp mode but the engine emissions light coming on too would I think put you into Limp mode.

 

Is your car battery fully charged?

Is your car fully serviced and maintained (not just engine but in this yes the engine) oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter?

 

Hope your course went well and you learnt from it, I can not throw the first stone as I got my first speeding ticket in 1985 in my first Skoda when it was an English national sport to take the mickey out of Skodas, a mate said "the Police didn't take the reg but the chassis number as I sped by", which I thought was a very good joke.

 

Hi  It was my 4th course, Thats 2 since the Corvid started up. The last 1 was a Motorway awareness course & apparently its a different course so the 3 years between course's does not apply . Always preferred the Midget over the "B".  I have a Lotus 7 with  modern Zetec lump in it  that I've had for 46years & A genuine JPS Lotus Elise, had that 10 years now.

Right the VRS I had it at 86k with full Skoda history and it had a belt/pump & DSJ oil change then, Oil / oil filter changed every 5 k since then. Now at 115 k' New  correct Battery 

It started to put on the glow plug light 3 k back; turbo over boost was the code, I changed the control  sensor on the passenger side to no avail and decided it was sticking turbo vanes so I put a can of Wynn's Turbo  Cleaner in it. It ran ok for 6 tank fills so 2500 miles but just came back with a vengeance,  Before if I just switched it off for 5 minutes it it would clear  it 

Im a right numpty when it come down to tect stuff  I am resigned to have to take the turbo & DPF out to get rebuilt/ cleaned but would like to sort out the codes light. first.

The Autel reader is very basic, I also have a ELM  Scanner but so far have failed to get it connected to either of our phones or laptops. I need an 8 year old school boy to do that for me.      Im fine on mechanical work  & used to have a very successful workshop 30 years back but never got into pc's ect and im paying for it now. Thank for your input, cheers Clive

Clive, four, a serial offender!

 

Having had two Bs and two Spridgets over the last 30 years as dallies I prefer the Spridget but I'm not far off needing a B now if only for getting in and out of.

 

Your Lotus 7 with a Zetec, I'll upset you I had a factory Westie copy of similar in 96-97 and a mate still has his now from that period.  I had to look up the JPS Elise and guessing by the photo it's a Mk2, a couple of chaps in the club I'm in have had a few earlier Elises, don't think I've seen a JPS that I can remember. 

 

For the car the basics are the same as just about ever (100+) years just that now there are sensors everywhere to get the nth degree of mpg showing on the dash and Governmental test (VW obviously throw in a bit more for good measure) the computers and their programs are very invasive and particularly over-complicated with VW (I wonder why).  So instead of just mechanic faults you now have to add electronic, mechanical/electronics combined, computers, communications to and from the computers and the possibilities of errors or unforeseen consequences of the computers' programming.

 

What many don't know or fully realise is that the computer do not like a car battery in a low state of charge, even ifthe car still starts and the lights seem brighter enough the computers can still throw wobblies and all sorts of odd issues, and this can be well before any "idiot lights", and they can make you suffer for your neglect of their need.  I'm not saying this is (necessarily) so for you but you never wanting adding to the pot of car woes.

 

I should say I am not a mechanic or expert in anything in any way but experience has taught me to try the quick, easy and free or low cost things first (hopefully that includes some basic diagnostics logic too but I'm very forgetful).

 

Three prongs of attack, here you have covered deal with the mechanical side, second get your better scan tool up and running, third try so basics.

 

For the scan tool there are bound to be videos online showing how to connect it to a phone or laptop (I'd have to watch them too) no doubt beyond the usual ratio 9 out of ten too complicated or not well enough explained or video'd and one that is just right in plain language, well explained, well video'd and easy to follow.

 

As you're not on the better scan tool yet here what I always suggest (assuming it's the turbo toasted) - check your Driver's Handbook for what needs resetting and synchronising after disconnecting the battery then fully disconnect the battery, immediately after turn the lights and a few other electrics on to deplete any stored electric in the car, don't forget to turn them all off again.  Have the battery disconnected for as long as possible, a couple of hours, better still overnight and give the battery a long low slow recharge while it's out/out-of the car (not a quick, fast, high charge and not booster charge).  Yeap, it's the old "turn-it-off-'n'-on-agen" for the computers to hopefully reset them and perhaps some error code actions.

 

Hopefully by then you might have use of the better scan tool, in which case run a scan, record it if you can but don't worry if not just take notes of error codes or photos like the young uns do.  Then delete, clear or whatever terminology the scan tool has.  Go for a reasonable drive when you get back do another scan whether warning lights are on or off and go from there.

 

If you're not quite set up with the better scan tool then still go for the drive as the computer might reset themselves over time and distance - they do not "relearn", computers are extremely dumb but not as dumb as us that are ruled by them.

 

Wow, another long post, the instant answer crowd will be beside themselves.  😁

 

Cheers, Nigel

 

For conformation of the battery business see the (last two of the three) posts here. - 

 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by nta16
forgot the sign off

Clive,

if you private message me the make model of this ELM (is it just a wire connector with a box type) and the laptop or phones you want to use I can ask my neighbour what you need and how to do it, or suitable videos.  Laptop is better for bigger screen, especially if like him and I you still need a bigger screen when wearing your reading glasses) but it depends how much computer capacity and power these things if your laptop is old and/or jammed full already modern phone have lots more spare.

 

I'm out and about a bit tonight but back home enough to send an email to my neighbour, he's a bit computer techy and bought and set up an £800 (well full RSP) scan tool that sorted another neighbour's 2005 A-Class Merc but failed to sort a mate's American/German car's roof which was a bit of a shame as he paid extra for the machine that covered that model year, but two other marque specialist had failed on their machines previously too.

 

All the programs seem to be from China, given to them by the car manufacturers no doubt who thought they were cleverer than the Chinese. 🤣

 

Cheers, Nigel.

 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by nta16
forgot the sign off

Hi Nigel, will do tomorrow may be late on.   The JPS is an S1   no 17 off 36 LHDs  Im rebuilding a Honda Quad tomorrow  so she can move some horse crap. Thank for your help.

Cheers Clive

29 minutes ago, Cap44 said:

The JPS is an S1 

That me rushing a Google search, I suppose the yellow instead of black in a photo should have been a clue, like you I had duties being pressed on my me, then I have to wait for the next command, and I'd better be ready. 🙃

 

 

29 minutes ago, Cap44 said:

Im rebuilding a Honda Quad tomorrow  so she can move some horse crap. Thank for your help.

That's no way to talk about the car just because it's lighting up for Xmas.

 

See what the help is first, 😄

 

 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by nta16

Hi nta 16  I tried to send you a mail but it got returned, try me on [email protected] Please

Sorry about that, they now let all kinds of Spam through but prevent legitimate emails.  Sod's Law last time it happened meant I didn't get a message and spent £60 I didn't need to.  The technology is marvellous, when it works.

 

I've just copied & pasted the address I gave you, in case I'd put in a typo, and it works fine.  I thought when I put it it'd become a live hyperlink but it didn't, perhaps I should have used the buttons but as I put the copy & paste works.

ETA: no the buttons don't work for email address

Cheers.

 

Edited 8 December, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA: