Cap44

Cant fault it in any way. That having sent back 3 **** ones from e-bay all around £100+ with 50% led's out cracked lens's, mounting tangs snapped.

Ultimate Components on E-Bay. £150 next day delivery. That was for the LED version that will cost you £100+ for S/H crap on e-bay

Put your hand down below the turbo, it has a steel tube covering the wires as they leave the sensor to soak up the heat i think. Its the only 1 down there that you can reach by hand that face's up to the scuttle

Lots of videos o U_Tue+ o replacing the gear lever detect switch o the top of the gear change linkage. took i 2 hours & £65 Also ECU repair company will rebuild your mechatronic unit via post Sorry about grammar lost some keys o the laptop

Thanks Crash0090. Lots of usefull information there. I think the controller in my lights are clipped into the side off the headlight, Will know when ive got it all apart. Thanks again

Hi all looks like I will have to drop the front bumper to get the headlight out. Can anyone tell me which bulb I will need for the long strip light in the bottom of the headlight unit? Thanks for any info.

Check that you have the same temp coming out of the 4 vents on the dash. If not you have a blocked heater matrix that will cause all sorts of problems with the flow to other things while doing regenerations. Lots of information on TDi club including dealer's who have changed head gaskets, inlet manifolds charging £1k's at a time and not curing the problem. All it needs is a £80 matrix and 2 hours labour if you do it yourself.

lots of videos on you tube, just drop the heater motor & slide it out. Make an open tube to funnel the water into a container to save soaking the carpets

E-Bay is your friend on this at £60 each or £130 for the LED ones,

Be careful there are led ones and normal ones. Led ones have 3 bulb's normal have 6 bulbs. Thats on a 14 estate.

Its a exhaust box. Find your local exhaust guy. I had a compleat exhaust made for my 7 from the manifold back for £150 in stainless while I waited. That was on Anglesey right in the sticks,

My 178 VRS estate has all the grip I will ever need if its dry. And my other cars include an Elise, Lotus 7 & 205 GTi. Something is wrong with yours so would benefit from a good set up

Ive done it . Take the 1st sensor out, you need a bit of old brake pipe & shape it like a coat hanger, feed it into the turbo main body. Take a WD40 valve and small pipe and fit to a Mr Muscle aerosol, feed it into the pipe and give it 5 sec shot. You will see the foam reach the sensor hole after 5 sec. I did it when hot and left it overnight, Did it for about 10 nights and it made a difference in that after the 4th time you could not see any foam at the base of the sensor hole. Mine started going into limp at 105K it lasted till 119K when it started going into 299 code so had a new turbo then. Worth a try in that it only takes 5 minutes and you dont even need to take the engine cover of. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Im suffering from water loss on my 184hp VRS at 120k miles. A good way of knowing if its the charge cooler is to fit clear pipes to the metal pipes fill up with water block one and use air to pressure the other. If you can see the level dropping you have found your fault. I think im going to have to change mine. Will it come out from behind the pump on the drivers side that's driven by the cam belt ? it looks like there's holes in the bracket for a tool to fit in. Its A CUNA engine code. Cheers for any input.

I used Castrol Edge in my VRS, went down to Cornwall and used a litre over over a 800 mile trip. That was 5 years & 34000 miles back. Did the same journey last month and used no oil, only difference is its been on Liquid Moly 4200 for the last two year's.