Electrics trip and reset mk1 Vrs

[octaviavrs170]

Bit of a weird one here. On occasions when i turn the engine off the power lights and engine INSTANTLY shut down and the MPG, clock and trip meter clocks on the car reset to 0.0. Then when i turn the ignition back on, voila. The engine fires up straight away. Then a few weeks later the car will do the same thing. Was wondering as i still have a bit of a water leak from the rear in the boot somewhere that maybe there is an earth or a connection that would a short the engine and electrics out or is their a connection underneath the seats in the floor? I have had a wee route around the web and i have heard about the CCM being an issue. Also the driver door will not open electrically and needs to be opened via the key in the lock. Could this be a suspect area for water leak and maybe shorting out the electrics? Any ideas on this? 

Edited 2 February, 2022 by octaviavrs170

[Dean]

I’d look at that door loom first. Take it completely out or get a multi meter on it and check for any breaks in the wires.

[octaviavrs170]

24 minutes ago, DeanVRS20VT said:

I’d look at that door loom first. Take it completely out or get a multi meter on it and check for any breaks in the wires.

Will do. Had a quick look this morning and seen that the positive connection to the battery wasn't fully secured. Don't quite know how that had happened but its secured. However, the fuse box on top of the battery, the cable opposite the green fuses has had a wee flash point and marked the box in it. I will attach a picture. Weird but maybe the root of the issue. 

[octaviavrs170]

[octaviavrs170]

59 minutes ago, octaviavrs170 said:

The black cable opposite the green fuses went hot within seconds of starting the car. Do I need to buy a new alternator harness or just get some new cable and crimp it? 

Edited 3 February, 2022 by octaviavrs170

[Dean]

1 hour ago, octaviavrs170 said:

2 hours ago, octaviavrs170 said:

The black cable opposite the green fuses went hot within seconds of starting the car. Do I need to buy a new alternator harness or just get some new cable and crimp it? 

A new cable and crimp it. Others have cut it. But, personally, I would have a new one. It also looks like in the past, the black cable next to the 4 red cables has been changed. You can see the burn mark on the plastic cover, so that's obviously built up resistance and someone had it changed.

[octaviavrs170]

Well I’ve bit the bullet and order a new fuse box and black cable which I can only get with the harness. I used the part numbers from the sticky thread and ordered them from skodaparts.com c/o Bickerton Skoda in Sheffield at a cost of £171 delivered for Monday. I can’t afford to have the car off the road but at the same time I cant afford to get the parts at a cheaper rate and then try and fix the issue and it eventually costs more in the long run. I’m hoping the harness is easy enough to fit. It don't look too difficult as it literally plug and play by the looks of it…….. Well I’ve jinxed myself now. 

Edited 3 February, 2022 by octaviavrs170

[octaviavrs170]

[Dean]

Let us know how you get on.

[octaviavrs170]

Aye i should have the parts for Monday morning so hopefully on Wednesday on my next day off ill strip out the old cable and refit the new harness and box. I’ll take some pictures if i can remember between swearing and going mental at the car.

i cant take the chance to clean the connectors and recrimp it if its going to cause issues further down the line. When i felt the cable earlier at work the moment i started the car the cable went instantly hot and after i revved it a bit it was scalding hot. So to be absolutely sure of the fix a new harness and fuse box i think is the right way to go. 

Cheers for the advice and lets see what happens during the week. In the mean time if anyone has any guides or tips on how to do this it would be greatly appreciated. 

Edited 3 February, 2022 by octaviavrs170