Does your car have a maf sensor?  As worth try unplugging it if it has one, to see if it makes a difference as out of spec MAF may make it a bit gutless at low revs as the fuel and air mix will be wrong as had a similar issue with Oct MK2 tdi

2 minutes ago, wiilydog said:

Does your car have a maf sensor?  As worth try unplugging it if it has one, to see if it makes a difference as out of spec MAF may make it a bit gutless at low revs as the fuel and air mix will be wrong as had a similar issue with Oct MK2 tdi

I'd expect a fault code or light on for that but I'll certainly give it a go

No light or fault codes, just felt gutless below 2k, new MAF sorted the issue, hence try unplugging it to see if it drives better.

12 minutes ago, wiilydog said:

No light or fault codes, just felt gutless below 2k, new MAF sorted the issue, hence try unplugging it to see if it drives better.

Thanks very much for the info, will give it a go

19 minutes ago, AJK87 said:

 Well, that was a very useful exercise, and I was wrong.

 

With Haldex fuse removed (which also disables ASR/ESC) the car spins the front wheels up in 2nd gear on a damp road.

 

With the fuse back in but ASR switched off I can't get any loss of traction, which proves exactly what you said and that the 4wd is working excellently.

 

The car feels quicker in low gears with the fuse out, but just as flat in higher gears ar lower revs.

 

It's as though the power is there but not the torque. Once the 4wd maintains traction and means the engine is having to propell the full weight of the car it feels like you're pulling something very heavy along.

 

You'd think remapped to approx 185bhp with 400+NM torque it would pick up really well at lower revs in 4th/5th but it is feeble.

 

Guess a rolling road is all there is left to try

 

Blimey that was quick! Worthwhile to avoid going down the wrong path.

 

"The car feels quicker in low gears with the fuse out" - that could be simply through less transmission losses or feeling more lively through torque steer etc, its possible that the max torque intervention is not applied in 2WD mode in the lower gears because a wheel would spin causing a 3 letter acronym intervention, that is to say perhaps its only needed for the lower gears when 4WD is engaged.

 

I would be looking at the timing marks again given the belt change, sometimes its difficult to see if they would line up better advanced or retarded one tooth, you cant check the torsion angle on a non PD engine but I think there might be some kind of electronic injector timing regulation through VCDS etc after a timing belt change, others may confirm.

 

Failing that have a look at the inlet tract around the throttle/anti run on valve for clagging, finally get the DPF soot measurements and the differentiel pressure from VCDS or similar, it might be blocked.

9 minutes ago, AJK87 said:

Thanks very much for the info, will give it a go

No different unfortunately, thanks anyway though

What does it drive like in 2WD mode?

 

I am missing giving the driver inputs required for a powerfull FWD vehicle, I need to keep my hand in!

 

I had an early Suzuki Jeep, RWD or 4WD, the rear diff was self destructing so for a week to be able to get to work I removed the rear propshaft and engaged the 4WD transfer box to run in in FWD only, it was appalling but then never designed for FWD.

5 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Blimey that was quick! Worthwhile to avoid going down the wrong path.

 

"The car feels quicker in low gears with the fuse out" - that could be simply through less transmission losses or feeling more lively through torque steer etc, its possible that the max torque intervention is not applied in 2WD mode in the lower gears because a wheel would spin causing a 3 letter acronym intervention, that is to say perhaps its only needed for the lower gears when 4WD is engaged.

 

I would be looking at the timing marks again given the belt change, sometimes its difficult to see if they would line up better advanced or retarded one tooth, you cant check the torsion angle on a non PD engine but I think there might be some kind of electronic injector timing regulation through VCDS etc after a timing belt change, others may confirm.

 

Failing that have a look at the inlet tract around the throttle/anti run on valve for clagging, finally get the DPF soot measurements and the differentiel pressure from VCDS or similar, it might be blocked.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will persist with looking into it as I'm positive something isn't right. 

 

It all looked timed up perfectly. The notch on crank pulley lined up with arrow on cover and lollipops went into cam pulley and fuel pump pulleys and into cylinder head.

 

Blocked DPF would fit with the slightly strangled feeling which led me to check the timing in the first place, just would have expecyed codes and lights on for that

7 minutes ago, J.R. said:

What does it drive like in 2WD mode?

 

I am missing giving the driver inputs required for a powerfull FWD vehicle, I need to keep my hand in!

 

I had an early Suzuki Jeep, RWD or 4WD, the rear diff was self destructing so for a week to be able to get to work I removed the rear propshaft and engaged the 4WD transfer box to run in in FWD only, it was appalling but then never designed for FWD.

 

It spins the front wheels up, slides sideways if you hoof it around a roundabout in the damp (albeit that is with ASR/ESC off to courtesy of fuse removal)

 

Just feels a lot more exciting and engaging to drive to be honest 😂

 

That might be because mine isn't right though, I'd have thought a 4x4 VRS would be reasonably fun to take off in, which is effectively what my Scout should be in a straight line at least

3 minutes ago, AJK87 said:

Just feels a lot more exciting and engaging to drive to be honest

 

Thats what I wanted to hear 😀

 

I have a feeling that a fuse might mysteriously blow soon!

15 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Thats what I wanted to hear 😀

 

I have a feeling that a fuse might mysteriously blow soon!

One other thought I've had, is there still such a thing as a keep alive memory fuse on cars that one can pull out to reset adapted values etc...?

Just a thought but what is the tread on your tyres like across the full tread pattern ?

I suppose poor tread may cause poor traction,  meaning all the usual interventions reduce spin meaning you feel bogged down. 🤔

My scout 150 hardly ever flashes any traction control and it seems the haldex does a lot of the heavy lifting when things get slippy.

6 hours ago, 3rdoctavia said:

Just a thought but what is the tread on your tyres like across the full tread pattern ?

I suppose poor tread may cause poor traction,  meaning all the usual interventions reduce spin meaning you feel bogged down. 🤔

My scout 150 hardly ever flashes any traction control and it seems the haldex does a lot of the heavy lifting when things get slippy.

Brand new continental cross contact LX2 fitted all around.

 

The haldex definitely does take care of any loss of traction, that experiment removing the Haldex fuse has proven that. The system works so well though, you only lose traction for a nano second