Right chaps and ladies.

 

So I’ve just received a US pro oil pressure gauge via Amazon- it looks the part tho was cheap 👍

 

My issue is I have 2 replaced by me last week oil pressure switches(One Brown and underneath it,a Blue one)

 

So which one for the test?? Also I do not know the correct oil psi for a Skoda Octavia mk2 vrs.I’ve looked all over the net.

 

This morning I engine flushed and then drained the not that old-4K miles oil.

 

I intend to remove and clean the oil sump and pick up tube next just for peace of mind.

 

This all generated from the amber ECP light on dash abs having checked with an OBD it keeps showing after clearing- low Oil pressure malfunction.

 

 

Thank you in advance 

20 hours ago, Nexus21 said:

Right chaps and ladies.

 

So I’ve just received a US pro oil pressure gauge via Amazon- it looks the part tho was cheap 👍

 

My issue is I have 2 replaced by me last week oil pressure switches(One Brown and underneath it,a Blue one)

 

So which one for the test?? Also I do not know the correct oil psi for a Skoda Octavia mk2 vrs.I’ve looked all over the net.

 

This morning I engine flushed and then drained the not that old-4K miles oil.

 

I intend to remove and clean the oil sump and pick up tube next just for peace of mind.

 

This all generated from the amber ECP light on dash abs having checked with an OBD it keeps showing after clearing- low Oil pressure malfunction.

 

 

Thank you in advance 

Ok. I’m afraid I’m confused with your description.

 

Yours is a 2010 vrs. Ccza engine code.

 

there is only one oil level sensor in the sump.

 

there is an oil pressure switch somewhere near the oil filter and oil cooler bracket from memory.

 

Is it those two things you’ve replaced. Please list part numbers you replaced with.

 

was the red oil can coming up on the dash as well? If all the switches have been replaced with good items then it could be a wiring or ecu fault. Or…. There is genuinely a low oil pressure fault. A garage or yourself could test with a screw in gauge…

 

 

Maybe I can help with a rather good photo from an ebay listing:

 

I would say it doesn't matter at all which one is removed to check the oil pressure, they appear to connect into the same gallery.

 

Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Drive unit > 2.0/110; 147 kW FSI Engine > Engine lubrication > Parts of the lubrication system - Part 2 > Testing oil pressure and oil pressure switch F1 > Checking oil pressure and 1-pin oil pressure switch (workshop-manuals.com)

 

Some test info with some pressure numbers here  This is with precondition of fully warmed up engine.  Seems to relate to previous generation of engines, but doubt the numbers will have changed much.  In case link can't be seen, key phrase appears to be:

"

–	Start the engine and increase the engine speed.

Given an oil pressure of 0.12...0.16 MPa (1.2...1.6 bar) the LED must light up, otherwise replace the oil pressure switch.

–	Increase engine speed further.

At 2000 rpm and 80°C oil temperature, the oil pressure should be 0.27...0.45 MPa (2.7...4.5 bar).

At a higher engine speed the oil pressure must not be greater than 0.7 MPa (7.0 bar).

If the measurement is less than the specification:

–	Check the strainer in the oil suction pipe ( → Chapter, Pos. 9) for contamination."

11 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Maybe I can help with a rather good photo from an ebay listing:

 

I would say it doesn't matter at all which one is removed to check the oil pressure, they appear to connect into the same gallery.

 

I had a 2011 and I didn’t remember the 2x switches,,,! Anyway, good photo. I’m intrigued why two switches into the same gallery? I could understand at 2 different locations say pre oil filter or post or somewhere else on engine!

Thinking One is probably a temp sensor.? Could check by unplugging.. 

 

 

edit. Seems two oil pressure switches set up at different pressures. Possibly one for idle to 2k rpm, other used above that. 

Edited 1 July, 20223 yr by TheClient

Good chance you're right with that.

Hi chaps and great research and responses thank you very much.

 

Yes Pete is correct in that photo,just under/near the oil filter.one on top of each other with brown on top abs blue under it,there are 2 oil pressure switches.

 

I attach photos of the parts I swapped out as 1st port of call as they are cheap.

 

I do have a ccza engine.

 

Here also is the £18.50 US Pro oil pressure gauge I also bought.

 

 

I added some Liqua Moly pro line engine flush to the oil and let the engine run for a good 20 mins.

 

Let it all drain out incl overnight.

 

Today I’m going to remove the sump to thorough clean it out and also remove and clean the pick up/suction pipe before I then add 5w40 instead of my usual 5w30 official Vag oil.

 

We will see if that gets rid of this pesky Amber ECP light( not Red oil can) dash light.

 

As I’m hesitant to drive it much further if it really is low oil pressure.

 

Great news on the aiming for oil pressures at certain rpm.Thank you.

 

I will take a gauge reading on the removed Brown sensor port as it’s easier to access after I have put the new oil in.

 

I will report back soon.

 

A great help guys thank you very much.

 

 

Yes OK. I can see the blue one says its set at 2.5 bar. But as Pete discussed it won't matter which one you test out of.

 

I'm always a bit dubious of cheap pattern parts. Always try to buy respected aftermarket brands if not genuine. Even then, there is always a small chance of  new faulty part.

 

But as you've got the oil pressure guage, assuming it is accurate enough it should show you what is happening  do you think the oil pressure dtc is being recorded under or over 2k rpm? 

Thanks Sir.

The EPC light comes on when I put the foot down,even front a spirited take off from standstill.

 

Kids are home now so this episode will have to be put on hold until hopefully later this evening.

 

Will report progress when I make some 

A quick update and many Thanks to Breezy Pete and The Client.

 

So I was prepared to drop the sump,clean out the oil pick up tube/mesh and then re silicone the sump back on and instead of my usual 5w30 fully synth,try out 5w40.

 

I then read about an engine flush having very good results without the need to drop the sump.

(I have no affiliation to the product btw)

Liqua Moly Pro-Line engine flush.

 

I fired a can of this into the oil filling hole,with a pre-warned up 1st engine then ran for a further 20 mins.

 

Let it cool down for 1/2 hour then dropped the old oil and let it drain over night too.

 

Filled with the new 5w40 fully synth.

 

Engine is running like a pussycat.

 

No low oil pressure codes,no amber ECP light on the dash.Exhaust pipes seem to be somewhat cleaner too.

 

Gave it a good bit of welly on a 2 hour drive each way for work and good to go👍👍

 

 

So there you go.One happy camper.

 

Hope this might help someone in future and Thank you again for your help and expertise chaps.

 

A great forum for sure. 

 

 

Check your high and low oil pressures anyway, you have after all bought the tools to do so.

 

Fresh oil will mask a failing oil pump, I would not be convinced that the engine flush has cured whatever the problem was, it may have eased it in the case of a blocked strainer but the engine will still need attention, more likely the new oil has reduced the pumping losses.

 

Check the pressures against the manufacturers specifications and then do so after a couple of thousand miles when the oil has thinned.

 

Was the oil level before the oil change very low or perhaps overhigh?

That is excellent advice JR

 

I will test the oil pressure when I can this week,using the Us pro gauge kit I bought.

 

The dipstick was reading fine after checking a few times over a fortnight before I did the oil change.

 

Is there a vcds method to show the oil pressure in the vehicle?

 

I have a photo of an oil leak that has been in the car for over 6 months- it looked like it was coming from a small figure of 8 metal washer,off the turbo.

 

I changed this months ago but it is still there.Not as bad niw that I have done this oil flush/change but still there.Wonder if it is related?Also changed the rubber diaphragm on the pcv valve on top of the engine months ago but that was dry as it should be.

 

Ive now done 3 maybe 4 oil changes with 5w30 since owning the car - 10k miles since I bought it.

 

A great help,I appreciate it a lot .

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Nexus21 said:

Is there a vcds method to show the oil pressure in the vehicle?

 

No. There are no pressure sensors, just pressure switches. All these do is change from non-conducting to conducting at their respective pressure thresholds; these changes being monitored by the warning system circuit.  

There's nothing that actually reads a pressure value.

11 hours ago, Nexus21 said:

 

I have a photo of an oil leak that has been in the car for over 6 months- it looked like it was coming from a small figure of 8 metal washer,off the turbo.

 

I changed this months ago but it is still there.Not as bad niw that I have done this oil flush/change but still there.Wonder if it is related?Also changed the rubber diaphragm on the pcv valve on top of the engine months ago but that was dry as it should be.

 

Ive now done 3 maybe 4 oil changes with 5w30 since owning the car - 10k miles since I bought it.

 

 

I have a detailed thread on here entitled something like CCZA oil leak, intake leak or such like, with details of a similar looking oil leak and the cause was the intake PCV system at the turbo elbow higher up.

 

I'll see if I can find the links and post.

 

 

 

 

 

If you look at your photos I believe the oil is coming from higher up or at least there is a source higher up as well. But if there is no significant consumption, I wouldn't worry too much. Have you ever replaced the fine oil separator on top of engine?

 

I prefer vw502.00 5w40 but each to their own. IN some markets VW / skoda actually mandated specific oils in the EA888 gen 2 which did not include LL5W30.

 

I'm too scared to run engine flushes these days, mostly because I buy used cars, not new, like 5 years old, I don't know their exact history or exactly what was done.  And I don't trust one oil flush every 6 or 7 years to not create more problems than what is resolves. Especially in terms of where the flushed particles end up being embedded or clogged elsewhere, these engines are very fussy with regards to cleanliness, but I am sure others will swear by them. I'd be more comfortable if I owned the car from new and did one every oil change...

 

A 

Edited 12 July, 20223 yr by TheClient