TheClient

It depends. You have to be on your toes to counterfeit. But there are genuine and aftermarket parts on amazon and ebay. You need to take care, look at feedback, look at seller, if its a known automotive seller with time trading you are more likely to be ok. If it is too cheap, that is a warning.

Yeah. I have removed it. With a cheap tool. They don't fit great. You need to apply pressure to keep it seated properly. It is definitely clockwise to undo. Can't add much more...

Yes, inside the deep spark plug well, the girdle seals low down. Leaking oil will show on the spark plugs. Not a huge deal unless it fills the well and shorts coil packs.

It's a big job. I don't think it would be much cheaper here, even shopping around. Job could be 5-6 hours booked time. Maybe more. Because the cam cover is the upper support for the camshafts, camshaft girdle, it is quite a job. If you are keeping the car and it has done 150k km or more you may want to do the timing chain and tensioner. It will cost more but is cheaper than doing the two jobs separate. Looping back to the beginning, how bad is the leak (edit. And where is it leaking)? If it is just weeping, they can often go a good while like that. Clean off and monitor for a few weeks.

Some good replies in here already. IMO you are going to need to add a oil cooler very quickly. Those temps are not good. You could try replacing the existing oil cooler but unless it is blocked, it will make no difference. If uou monitor coolant temp with a diagnostic tool for temp 1 you will find it is increasing as well, but not as much as the oil temp. The temp guage is always BS in terms of actual temps in recent VAG vehicles!!

I'm guessing it is when stationary, idling. I've unfortunately seen this come up a couple of times on here and every time it has been without resolution.. It is a complicated oil system. With a two stage pump, regulation solenoid and a separate solenoid controlled squirter jet cct. You could try another pressure sensor, low or regular pressure if problem is at idle but in other similar threads the problem has been genuine. You could check the oil pump but otherwise it means the clearances or something else inside the engine has created a pressure drop.

Actual oil pressure is a good check. Full scan with the exact code another. As there are quite a few codes that start p164 What engine is this, is it a gen 3 ea888?

Probably / possibly behind grill or skoda emblem. You should conduct or arrnage a full module scan first, if not doing yourself, ask for diagnosis of the problem - as the ACC will de-activate with most engine faults even those you may not notice and in some cases do not turn on EML.

This is the problem with partially diagnosing on a forum. Then asking someone else to do the work. Then when it doesn't solve it, who do you turn to? I would of said, remove expansion tank, check for remnants of silicat bag with coolant emptied out. Use a light source if necessary. If there was the bag remenant, then very likely your system is blocked you will need to fully flush not just replace the heat exchanger. Its a long, long process.. did i say long, lengthy, just checking. If there was no remenant, then id probably go looking elsewhere. Like the flap motor. But your presumably unchanged tank, said mitt silikat.!! Other option, if you cant do work, is ask a garage to diagnose and fix, then they are accountable!!

I dont think you are alone. If you search the Internet for vw, audi, skoda 1.5tsi ACT vibration you will find posts. One solution is to tune it out. Im not sure it could be done in settings alone. You'd have to buy obd eleven and have a look around or do more searching, I doubt it as it would affect the type specification for economy / co2..

The coolant expansion tank with a pressure cap, vents anything in excess to a tube and vent hole on the permiter of the cap recess. It flows to the base of the reservoir and to the inner guard of the car beneath.

I dunno. It is harder if you think it has always been like this.... Tried doing a couple of 0-60 30 to 60 etc with a passenger timing. Either GPS lock speed or even with speedo error. How far off is it from review times? I had a mk2 fl with the ccza, they were 200 and it felt brisk and torquey but not a race car, but good enough to think, ok I was moving....

Im not a diesel expert and you've owned for 6 consecutive years, so have been through winters before.... Don't under estimate though, higher current draw, lights, cold starts. Does translate into more fuel. As well as that ive seen quite a few posts before about the diesel fuel composition change over winter months. So I don't have first hand knowledge of what % impact that could make and to expect. Putting all that to one side for a moment. If you want to check things, alternator, air con pulleys, check bearings not on way out. Belt tensioner as well. Lift wheels. Check for binding brakes, front and rear. Check tyre pressures. That would cover some of the physical things.

Yes, sounds like a evap system fault to me. I've not encountered mine, but they can have set rules about when to run and report on evap system check complete. So if you are not using the car much, or never fill the tank on cars gone by that can prevent the evap checks from running. A full scan may help, there may be pending. Or there maybe a function to force check evap system. It should be vacuum surely. Positive pressure should be purged to the charcoal canister.

It still gets extremely hot in southern Europe med region in summer months. But that is my gut feeling, the Christmas tree display is characteristic of an electrical issue like a weak battery. But normally this would become apparent in extreme cold, not hot...