My 'trusty' Skoda Octavia has a problem....when I open the drivers door there are three muted chimes like sounds. not fast but over 5-8 seconds. The key is inserted, all lights on the dash come up and diminish except for the ones lit until engine starts. The engine has occasionally started and the car drive (locally) for a week but has now refused to start at all. The engine does turn over but I've stopped trying now. Its these 3 'chimes' that I can't find out about, nothing in the manual to lead a way on this. I've searched on the forum and will ask the AA/mechanic next week to check the fuel pump situ, possible timing belt and the "Canbus module" which was mentioned on the forum? (I'll have to look up what that is. (I've also read the oil filler cap or gauge stick should be firmly fitted to stop 'extra' air getting into the system?).

Edited 5 November, 20223 yr by mydadscar

Have you checked the battery? the chiming is usually a sign of a flat battery.

I think the battery is fine. I replaced it in 2020 as it had died, for a slightly higher ‘power rated’ one. The dash lights up immediately and the engine easily turns over but won’t continue to run. Thanks 

On 05/11/2022 at 15:53, mydadscar said:

My 'trusty' Skoda Octavia has a problem....when I open the drivers door there are three muted chimes like sounds. not fast but over 5-8 seconds.

 

Check your battery voltage with a multimeter (if you have one) first thing in the morning and before turning on the ignition.

 

The only time I had this chime, it was low battery volts. It could be the alternator is not producing enough charge or you have a low constant discharge when the car is locked.

To check the possibility, connect jump start leads between your battery and the battery on another car. Start the other car before starting yours. 

Thanks Radiogaga  and pikpilot……I’ve got the AA calling today so I will get them to check the battery again…..I’m concerned the usual pre start up sound when the key is initially turned (of the pre fuel injection?) didn’t occur the last time I tried to start, so maybe the battery doesn’t have enough juice .. Thanks

AA called, no diagnostic findings… they reckon a possible airlock in the fuel system. The car started (of course!) when the AA chap tried so we then drove to my mechanics garage. The car was due for a full service this week anyway. Dirty fuel filter and rear discs done but he did trace a flattened battery but no other fault with it. So something may be draining it away. The engine did crank over strongly previously but wouldn’t run. Previously to not starting  I had noticed a light on the dash would sometimes glow which showed as a bulb not working but they all work. Ongoing!

 

Car service done.....diagnostics done again and no faults/code faults found. The mechanic said at one point the baterry flattened but he was trying the engine start a lot so (we hope) it was just that. He could not find any other fault. The fuel filter was dirty but he has seen worse.

At present I am veering towards a possible fuel tank pump starting to lose its life. I know if I hear that 'buzz' of the fuel prime going the engine will start......possibly a new part replacement. Can I do it myself.....hmmmm! Thanks so far folks.

I’ve been thinking towards getting the fuel tank pump module replaced or should I get the whole assembly replaced…any thoughts welcome?

So the car has started fine this past week until this Saturday morning when it refused. As I’m on a hill I let the car move a couple of feet backwards in auto reverse gear hoping to ‘jog’ any part that needed it.  Left it a couple of minutes and then it did start up.

The mechanic did replace one failed number plate bulb that may have been the cause of the slow triple chimes that had occurred but as mentioned earlier in a post, it may still be a battery problem, leakage or other as so far both AA and my garage find no diagnostic fails.

 

The latest……

I replaced the battery which had a guarantee so a free exchange there.

I replaced the fuel pump relay, my mechanic put in a £20 relay so all new there.

The car still had the problem of turning over but not catching which happened more often to the point of not using the car.

I re-called the AA and the man took my point on the fuel tank pump not ‘initialising’ (my words) when the ignition was switched on.

Thankfully the car would NOT start when he tried so we raised the rear seat up to visually inspect the pump and all wires etc were in good order.

He then crawled alongside the car and gave what I presume was the underside of the fuel pump a couple of hard knocks.

The car then started! “ Full pump replacement” he said ….. so now the question whether I can change it myself or take it back to the garage.

QUESTION: Does anyone know the MAKE of fuel tank pumps used in these diesel 2011 Octavia Hatchbacks ? Skoda didn’t! 

So far I’m looking at Bosch online at about £85 or Delphi at around the same cost, guessing I should get new seals/gaskets.

Thanks in advance.

Continuing the sage.......

The first fuel tank replacement pump worked and the car went but after a few days, the fuel pump started 'whining' so a replacement (Bosch) was installed (got my money back from the first replacement)

This one has worked fine.

Then problems again with start up and flat battery.

An auto electrician with the full monty diagnostic kit found the engine bay relay that sends to the under dashboard relay to be dodgy, on close inspection it was seen to have corrosion 'leaking' out of its capsule. A new one was installed and the car went well.....for a few days!

The fairly new battery however has been sometimes loingt all its stored power needing a recharge at the garage. Thoughts being that a short is happening within the electrics somewhere.

Once recharged  and 20 mins into a main road trip the glowplug alert came up on the dash, the car slightly jerked as the auto run came into play, allowing me to turn around and drive home with a modicum of power.

A new set of glowplugs were installed (Car mileage at 110.000 miles so very possibly due anyway). Again so far the car is performing okay. I have read online that it is possible for glowplugs can 'short out internally', maybe causing a power drain on the batterry when parked.

I'm almost a fully blown mechanic myself now (not really!) but have never had so many niggling problems over four months.

 

ps....during all this we found evidence of mice having been in the engine bay eating the battery cover, cable covering and the underside of the engine noise retarding cover! One mouse recovered from a trap. Mechanic has a set of replacement parts for Mercs as mice really like merc wiring!

On 06/11/2022 at 16:24, Radiogaga said:

Have you checked the battery? the chiming is usually a sign of a flat battery.

I'll add some more below but yes Radiogaga, there were issues with the battery losing power....more below.

It appears at last the car is running/starting okay. With a new fuel tank pump, both engine housed relay and under dashboard relay replaced and new battery, then the glowplugs (car was at 110000 miles) and....ridding the mice that had subsequently set up home, eating some of the battery cover!

(The alternator was working fine).

Replacing ALL of these and then deciding to replace the glowplugs although on test they were 'okay', I had read there is a faint possiblility that an internal shorting in a plug can occur....hence maybe my battery always going flat? No problem with the battery now. Start up is fine and driving the circuit where the car faltered in the past uphill has been okay. Heres hoping then.

1 minute ago, mydadscar said:

It appears at last the car is running/starting okay. With a new fuel tank pump, both engine housed relay and under dashboard relay replaced and new battery, then the glowplugs (car was at 110000 miles) and....ridding the mice that had subsequently set up home, eating some of the battery cover!

(The alternator was working fine).

Replacing ALL of these and then deciding to replace the glowplugs although on test they were 'okay', I had read there is a faint possiblility that an internal shorting in a plug can occur....hence maybe my battery always going flat? No problem with the battery now. Start up is fine and driving the circuit where the car faltered in the past uphill has been okay. Heres hoping then.

Wow that's some journey you have been through!, please you have it running again.

Just now, Radiogaga said:

Wow that's some journey you have been through!, pleased you have it running again.

 

Just now, Radiogaga said:

Wow that's some journey you have been through!, please you have it running again.

Thanks Radiogaga....it certainly has been, I was looking at further Skoda adverts! I know just a tiny bit more about car mechanics now but its more than obvious that auto diagnostics play a big part for mechanics now and a cars electrical system doesn't always show the real problem!

Another cause of battery flattening (following a few days of non-use) is the alarm (built-in) battery failing.  It tries to charge from the vehicle battery, and in doing so can flatten a good  battery over a few days.  I ended up removing the fuse feeding the alarm.

Edited 26 April, 20233 yr by JohnBS

1 hour ago, JohnBS said:

Another cause of battery flattening (following a few days of non-use) is the alarm (built-in) battery failing.  It tries to charge from the vehicle battery, and in doing so can flatten a good  battery over a few days.  I ended up removing the fuse feeding the alarm.

Never knew the alarm had a built in battery…is this a late Reg model or early like mine which is 2011.

2011

 

14 hours ago, JohnBS said:

2011

 

Thanks John....thats something else to remember then!

From the handbook: "The working life of the alarm siren is 6 years. "  :>(

John

1 minute ago, JohnBS said:

From the handbook: "The working life of the alarm siren is 6 years. "  :>(

John

Yes I've just been looking up about the battery and its life span....I'll mention it to my mechanic on the next service. I've never heard of this battery problem from anyone so interesting. Thanks.

When you replace the alarm I recommend you spend the money and get a genuine unit. There are many of secondhand alarm units on the 'bay market and there is some evidence that they may be the old units that people have taken out when fitting a new one!

 

If you want to put in a new battery in the old alarm (as long as the old one has not corroded the printed circuit board) then take a look at the sticky alarm thread above - and also shown below.

Your car is only one year older than mine and is the facelift version so ignore the older link I posted in the repair thread.

 

 

Thanks.