2015 Yeti 1.2 TSi with start/stop

 

Original factory fitted EFB 60amp battery, so a replacement is due and will be replacing it with  Varta EFB brand if I stick to size like for like basis.

 

Taking into account where the battery sits and its  dimensions I'd like to fit a larger battery, more cold starting capicity.

 

The car will be mostly used for short trips and infrequently.

 

Would a larger Ah battery be better under such  circumstanses, what could be fitted.

 

Fitting a larger battery any issues with coding the ECU

Let's start with an image of what you have please, that would be most helpful if you can.

Rotated picture, eaiser to view, battery sits vertical in car, possitive terminal at front.

51 minutes ago, cado said:

Original factory fitted EFB 6059amp battery, so a replacement is due and will be replacing it with  Varta EFB brand if I stick to size like for like basis.

Factory is 59Ah, done well to get 7+ years out of it, the simplist thing you can do it drop in a 60Ah EFB Varta (or similar)

It's classed as an 027 size.

 

53 minutes ago, cado said:

Taking into account where the battery sits and its  dimensions I'd like to fit a larger battery, more cold starting capicity.

The only real upgrade path is to fit an 096 size battery (need to check) of 70Ah capacity with AGM technology, but that involves changing the heat cloth if sits in to a larger one.

 

 

55 minutes ago, cado said:

Fitting a larger battery any issues with coding the ECU

Given the above information, you would definitly need to have it adapted in for sure.  If you go with the 60Ah EFB, you can just drop in and go.

 

 

I can provide more information, for sure you will need a new battery heat cloth in bigger size at the least.

1 hour ago, varooom said:

Factory is 59Ah, done well to get 7+ years out of it, the simplist thing you can do it drop in a 60Ah EFB Varta (or similar)

It's classed as an 027 size.

 

The only real upgrade path is to fit an 096 size battery (need to check) of 70Ah capacity with AGM technology, but that involves changing the heat cloth if sits in to a larger one.

 

 

Given the above information, you would definitly need to have it adapted in for sure.  If you go with the 60Ah EFB, you can just drop in and go.

 

 

I can provide more information, for sure you will need a new battery heat cloth in bigger size at the least.

Thanks,

 

Don't know what a battery heat cloth is, do you mean the battery cover, if so your right, I will need to make a bigger one, what would I make it from.

 

Found an Exide battery EXIDE 096 EFB Stop / Start Car Battery 12V 70AH 720CCA seems to fit the bill £110 delivered

 

As it will be longer, I think the battery leads will have to be extended,, at least the postive lead, again not an issue.

 

More concern about coding a larger battery to the ECU, if I have it done, any issues.

 

With the car being used as it will, am I approaching this the right way or should I stick to a like for like.

3 minutes ago, cado said:

Thanks,

 

Don't know what a battery heat cloth is, do you mean the battery cover, if so your right, I will need to make a bigger one, what would I make it from.

 

Found an Exide battery EXIDE 096 EFB Stop / Start Car Battery 12V 70AH 720CCA seems to fit the bill £110 delivered

 

As it will be longer, I think the battery leads will have to be extended,, at least the postive lead, again not an issue.

 

More concern about coding a larger battery to the ECU, if I have it done, any issues.

 

With the car being used as it will, am I approaching this the right way or should I stick to a like for like.

The cloth is made from heat resistant fabric, and is definitely needed for an AGM swap.

If you do fit the Exide bigger battery, you will need to get a new heat cover, it needs adapting to car (cost if you don't have tools) and might not be the best fit for your driving pattern (I cannot say it will be an issue to swap, but you may not "exercise" the battery enough to keep it in good health)

 

Given the extra steps involved, you might be better with a nice Varta EFB 027 size, that will drop in without the extra headache/potential issues.

No need to extend the battery lead(s), the 096 will just drop in and the existing clamp will work.

 

My battery cover looked like Alexis Sale's jacket after the swop so I used a decent looking battery box & cover from a MK2 Octavia (amongst others) which make the underbonnet look much more finished but I have since learned from Varoom that it may not have been a good idea thermal wise, my car is not start stop, I must look and see what battery type I fitted.

18 hours ago, varooom said:

The cloth is made from heat resistant fabric, and is definitely needed for an AGM swap.

If you do fit the Exide bigger battery, you will need to get a new heat cover, it needs adapting to car (cost if you don't have tools) and might not be the best fit for your driving pattern (I cannot say it will be an issue to swap, but you may not "exercise" the battery enough to keep it in good health)

 

Given the extra steps involved, you might be better with a nice Varta EFB 027 size, that will drop in without the extra headache/potential issues.

Yes but why make it so easy for myself when I can make it a little harder, I can get my hands on a used heat resistant cover and chop and sew but your right, like for like, no hassle.

 

The new larger battery will be EFB, I didn't know a heat resistant cover was more imperitive with AGM.

 

My thinking is  due to my car's infrequent use and its start/stop feature, fit bigger battery, it will have more Ah, more CC and set up car for trickle charge.

 

But I could do the same with a new 027 battery to keep it in good condition.

 

Don't know if I should choose larger battery option or stick to same, either one use a trickle charger.

18 hours ago, J.R. said:

No need to extend the battery lead(s), the 096 will just drop in and the existing clamp will work.

 

My battery cover looked like Alexis Sale's jacket after the swop so I used a decent looking battery box & cover from a MK2 Octavia (amongst others) which make the underbonnet look much more finished but I have since learned from Varoom that it may not have been a good idea thermal wise, my car is not start stop, I must look and see what battery type I fitted.

Thanks.

 

Will there be enough play in the leads even if a bigger battery is an inch or so longer.

These 2 SSP's might help give you some background information.

https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-426-start-stop-system-2009/

https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-504-vehicle-batteries/

 

If you was to do the upgrade, I would put in an AGM myself, as they are tough as old boots.

Anyhow, take a read and if you still have more questions fire away, I will answer or someone else of course.

 

 

18 hours ago, J.R. said:

My battery cover looked like Alexis Sale's jacket after the swop

Although you have said this before, the line still makes me smile every time 😄

1 minute ago, cado said:

Thanks.

 

Will there be enough play in the leads even if a bigger battery is an inch or so longer.

An 027 battery = 242mm length

An 096 battery = 278mm length (so 36mm difference / 3.6cm)

 

Should be fine to make that small gap AFAIK

I’ve got a 2017 1.2Tsi DSG Yeti and I am going to need a new battery soon. Can anyone who has fitted a new battery tell me definitely if it is a simple swap job - disconnect, unbolt restraining strap, fit new battery and reconnect - or will I need to do anything like entering radio codes etc. etc.?

1 minute ago, Expatman said:

I’ve got a 2017 1.2Tsi DSG Yeti and I am going to need a new battery soon. Can anyone who has fitted a new battery tell me definitely if it is a simple swap job - disconnect, unbolt restraining strap, fit new battery and reconnect - or will I need to do anything like entering radio codes etc. etc.?

Swap job, if you are keeping the same technology.

EFB -> EFB

AGM -> AGM

 

EFB -> AGM = No!  You will have to adapt the battery and change the technology type.

Radio code is obsolete, it's now protected by VIN being encoded into it, as long as the car's VIN = same, nothing to worry about.

12 minutes ago, varooom said:

Swap job, if you are keeping the same technology.

EFB -> EFB

AGM -> AGM

 

EFB -> AGM = No!  You will have to adapt the battery and change the technology type.

Radio code is obsolete, it's now protected by VIN being encoded into it, as long as the car's VIN = same, nothing to worry about.

Thanks - I will be swapping with exactly same spec E027 EFB as the existing battery. If you’ve done the swap are there any pointers or unforseen problems - hidden restraint bolts etc. - I need to watch out for? 

Just now, Expatman said:

Thanks - I will be swapping with exactly same spec E027 EFB as the existing battery. If you’ve done the swap are there any pointers or unforseen problems - hidden restraint bolts etc. - I need to watch out for? 

Nothing I can think of, but I can only talk about my own experience here.

 

Disconnect negative

Disconnect positive

Undo clamp bolt holding battery down, and lift away.

 

Do the process in reverse for the new one.

If the Ah rating is very close from old to new, then don't trouble yourself to adapt the battery (unless you have access to VCDS or similar) so within +/- 2Ah I would say is ok.

 

Only issues come from upsetting the car, so the dash will light up like xmas tree, so usually a full turn of wheel lock left/right cures that.  Reset TPMS if fitted, and one-touch windows will need recalibration of the end stops.  Ideally take the car for a nice run if you can to give the battery a nice start in life, then just drive normally, if you have a charger, then use that on it inside the car, and make sure to connect negative charge clamp onto correct Earth point, not direct to battery terminal.

2 hours ago, cado said:

Thanks.

 

Will there be enough play in the leads even if a bigger battery is an inch or so longer.

Yes, I went from the 027 to the 096.

 

Leads - OK

 

Tray length - OK

 

Clamp position - OK

 

Insulating jacket - Alexis Sale 😆

 

Just for Varoom!

3 hours ago, varooom said:

Nothing I can think of, but I can only talk about my own experience here.

 

Disconnect negative

Disconnect positive

Undo clamp bolt holding battery down, and lift away.

 

Do the process in reverse for the new one.

If the Ah rating is very close from old to new, then don't trouble yourself to adapt the battery (unless you have access to VCDS or similar) so within +/- 2Ah I would say is ok.

 

Only issues come from upsetting the car, so the dash will light up like xmas tree, so usually a full turn of wheel lock left/right cures that.  Reset TPMS if fitted, and one-touch windows will need recalibration of the end stops.  Ideally take the car for a nice run if you can to give the battery a nice start in life, then just drive normally, if you have a charger, then use that on it inside the car, and make sure to connect negative charge clamp onto correct Earth point, not direct to battery terminal.

I have a C-tec smart battery charger, is it best to charge the new battery before fitting it to the car?

21 minutes ago, Expatman said:

I have a C-tec smart battery charger, is it best to charge the new battery before fitting it to the car?

I did mine before fitting, it was more convenient.

But, the ideal way is on the car, with positive direct to battery terminal, and negative has to go to the designated spot on the car body (mine was just above the neg terminal, user manual, or take a pic)

 

Inside the home, it took over 12hrs, so that's why I chose that over doing it on the car.

Most top ups afterwards are about 3-5hrs roughly on car.  I do this once per month roughly to keep it in good shape.

 

 

11.7V = 0% SOC (State of charge)

Every 0.1V added to the 11.7 =+10% SOC

12.7V = 100% SOC

 

I leave my car for a whole week before it get's a run, and it sits at 12.3V, so it's 60% which drops from a roughly normal 80% SOC (12.5V)

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

Yes, I went from the 027 to the 096.

 

Leads - OK

 

Tray length - OK

 

Clamp position - OK

 

Insulating jacket - Alexis Sale 😆

 

Just for Varoom!

Thankyou,

 

Given how my car will be used, short journeys and infrequent should I stick to a 027 or upgrade to a 096, what are your views.

Mine are a bit contrary to the battery charging obsessive fetishist evangelists, I dont think any vehicle with a minimum of a 90 amp  alternator probably a lot more will have any problem recharging the small extra capacity of an 096 battery, once fully charged it is not going to need any more recharging after a start than an 027 battery, the starter motor will not have drawn any more current, the difference in the overnight self discharge will be de minimis.

 

And on that subject the starter motor will be a 1.7kw geared starter lets say 2 kw, these engines start in less than a second of cranking but lets say 3 seconds, that equates to 166 amps at peak, at lot less having got the engine rotating, this equals 0.14 AH.

 

Throw in the glowplug preheating say 5 seconds and the heating while cranking 3 seconds, post start heating will be covered by the alternator, lets say 40 amps for 8 seconds = 0.09 AH

 

So a total starting discharge of 0.23 AH which we will round up to 0.25 AH

 

Lets say you drive off using heated rear screen, heated seats and anything else you can think of, lets say that half of the alternators output is used to cope with the running load, it wont be anywhere near that but I am being very conservative with all these figures, lets say that there is only 45 amps remaining output from the alternator.

 

You would need to run the engine above tickover speed to get the full alternator output ie driving but recharging will have commenced as soon as the engine starts even at tickover but I will also ignore that, you need to replace 0.25 AH from the spare alternator capacity of 45 amps = 45 AH.

 

You would need to be driving for 20 seconds to recharge the battery from a normal cold start.

 

Lets say that you crank the engine for 2 minutes which is a very long time but maybe you have air in the fuel system, even using the above very exaggerated current figures you would only need to drive 13 minutes.

 

I'm afraid the "your battery will discharge on short journeys" has been an old wives tale since the introduction of alternators as standard fitment some 50 years ago over the preceedin dynamos that did not give enough output to cover a full electrical load with the then new heated rear screens and which did not charge at idle speed.

 

I would appreciate it if someone else can cast an eye over my figures and tell me if I have made a mistake 👍

Further to the above if the vehicle is used very infrequently then the self discharge will be more significant than the starting discharge and the engine will need to be run a little longer but we are only talking a few minutes maximum.

My car with 180Amp alternator was according to the VCDS live data, putting out 500W of power.  If I was to turn on rear heated and front heated screens it will output 2,000W, rising to about 2,800W with both heated seats on.  The idle barely increases, not over 1,000rpm iirc.

 

Not sure if that helps anything, but might do.

Just for info

 

096 ENDUROLINE AGM STOP START CAR BATTERY 12V 70AH  £123.65 + Postage £7.99 from Tayna batteries.co.uk

027 ENDUROLINE CAR BATTERY 60AH  £60.97 + postage £7.99 or, a Bosch 63ah £75.97 + postage

Or 

096 EFB 72ah heavy duty, more power than AGM. £84.99 free postage from ebay 312816513693.  278L x 175W x 190H (mm)

Of course do your homework & check warranty data.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

I would appreciate it if someone else can cast an eye over my figures and tell me if I have made a mistake 👍

 

I think the figures you have quoted appear to be correct (I'm no expert - just using some maths!), but something you must also allow for is that there is a maximum acceptable charge current. Figures quoted seem to vary depending on the battery technology, and are generally from 25% to 50% of the battery capacity. So with a 70AH battery I presume the maximum charging current could be between 17.5A and 35A - depending on battery specs?

On 04/02/2023 at 15:46, Expatman said:

Thanks - I will be swapping with exactly same spec E027 EFB as the existing battery. If you’ve done the swap are there any pointers or unforseen problems - hidden restraint bolts etc. - I need to watch out for? 

Checked original battery in Yeti today and it is 278mm long and EFB is clearly written on battery. The battery fills the available space tightly so I deduce it must be 096 version rather than 027 version which is shorter than the battery in my Yeti.