Buckled alloy wheel straightening recommendations

[Funkystanley]

Hi all

 

Can anyone recommend a good alloy wheel straightener in the Chesterfield/Sheffield area?

I hit a kerb (in the snow) two years ago and this led to a front offside wheel bearing failing (droning noise).  Had the wheel bearing replaced about a year ago, which cured the droning but now after only a year I’ve got droning from the front end again.

I’m thinking that a buckled wheel has caused the bearing to fail again after only a short time but the only problem is, I don’t know which wheel was the one that hit the kerb as I switched front to rear and possibly left to right to work out if it was just a buckle, and now cant remember if I fitted them back as they were. If I swapped left to right then the buckled wheel might have caused the nearside to fail this time, so dont want to replace what might be a good offside bearing.

I think the best thing is to get both front checked before having the bearings replaced.

[J.R.]

Your bearing failure was either just luck of the draw as many don't seem to last long, or was caused as a result of the impact and not IMO a buckled wheel unless it was so bad that the steering was vibrating beyond the point that anyone could cope with.

 

You have 3 original 11 year old factory fit bearings and one aftermarket bearing only a year old, I would bet my house that the new one would be the first to fail.

[Funkystanley]

So, would you say then that the nearside one has failed now or the offside aftermarket one?  Would a wheel have to vibrate (which it dosnt, btw) the steering that much to damage a new bearing?  I agree that the impact would have probably been the cause of the original failure but do we then think that the aftermarket one has just failed!?  

Would it be a god idea to buy genuine then?

[J.R.]

You can tell which one has failed if indeed it is front wheel bearing noise by listening to the change of tone when you take a left or right hand bend which loads the outside wheel and removes load from the inside wheel.

 

No point asking a bloke on a forum to tell you which one has failed.

3 hours ago, Funkystanley said:

Would a wheel have to vibrate (which it dosnt, btw) the steering that much to damage a new bearing

 

Yes and probably 100 times worse than that before any risk of bearing damage, it would have shaken you to death well before a bearing failed.

3 hours ago, Funkystanley said:

Would it be a god idea to buy genuine then?

 

What is genuine? Even OEM manufacturers like SKF sell various grades of the same bearing, those fitted in the factory and this is true of most parts, used to be the best quality so as not to cause warranty failures, I suspect this is no longer the case, even buying the parts from a main dealer does not mean you are getting the same quality of part being fitted on the assembly line to a new vehicle, batteries are a very good example, you simply cannot buy a battery as good as the one fitted in the factory even the identical product, part number etc from the main dealer.

 

Once again I suspect that batteries are another area where they are saving money.

 

Buying SKF or NTN bearings is about the best you can do but please isolate which bearing needs replacing.

[Funkystanley]

On 28/07/2023 at 17:44, J.R. said:

You can tell which one has failed if indeed it is front wheel bearing noise by listening to the change of tone when you take a left or right hand bend which loads the outside wheel and removes load from the inside wheel.

 

No point asking a bloke on a forum to tell you which one has failed.

 

 

I might struggle to find a road in the UK where you can get to take a corner at 60mph, crawling along at 20 seems to be the norm in Britain at present, what with all the roadworks and potholes.  I've booked it into a garage and asked if they can diagnose which one is at fault, while up on the ramps....if thats possible.

Edited 31 July, 2023 by Funkystanley
quotes incorrectly

[Funkystanley]

On 28/07/2023 at 17:44, J.R. said:

What is genuine? Even OEM manufacturers like SKF sell various grades of the same bearing, those fitted in the factory and this is true of most parts, used to be the best quality so as not to cause warranty failures, I suspect this is no longer the case, even buying the parts from a main dealer does not mean you are getting the same quality of part being fitted on the assembly line to a new vehicle, batteries are a very good example, you simply cannot buy a battery as good as the one fitted in the factory even the identical product, part number etc from the main dealer.

 

Once again I suspect that batteries are another area where they are saving money.

 

Buying SKF or NTN bearings is about the best you can do but please isolate which bearing needs replacing.

 

True.  SKF have a good reputation so happy to go with them.

[J.R.]

14 minutes ago, Funkystanley said:

 

I might struggle to find a road in the UK where you can get to take a corner at 60mph, crawling along at 20 seems to be the norm in Britain at present, what with all the roadworks and potholes.  I've booked it into a garage and asked if they can diagnose which one is at fault, while up on the ramps....if thats possible.

 

They should be able to spin the wheels and feel for vibration with a fingertip like a CT/MOT tester does (well the CT ones do anyway)

the drag of the brake discs, driveshafts and drivetrain in the case of a 4x4 makes it difficult for me to do but then I am haunched over with the vehicle on axle stands and not under a ramp.