J.R.

If it does morph into a keeper then whatever you have spent is irrelevant, I share your desire to get everything right on a new car that I intend keeping, I temper that somewhat in my case with the knowledge of how it is going to be abused so for instance I did not do anything about the myriad cosmetic dents and scratches other than knowk out those I could as best I could because I knew they would be added to. I would have held the investment at the time of discovering the advanced corrosion and focussed my time and money initially on remediating that.

Snatching brakes, is there any car problem that you will not blame on computers or a low battery and publish yet another treaty on battery charging complete with utter rubbish such as below? It wasn't even true with the first Lucas alternators 50 years ago unless they were faulty, admittedly a frequent occurence, its certainly not true today when the smallest alternator you will find has a 90 amp output, a member actually plotted the charging graph after a cold start using live data with every single accessory switched on, heated rear window, heated seats etc, time to fully recharge? 45 seconds IIRC. You can drive a modern vehicle with stop start in a city with everything switched on, the engine can stop and restart every time the car moves forward in queuing traffic and numerous junctions and traffic lights and the alternator will keep up. None of which has anything to do with snatching brakes.

No there should be no movement and knocking, if they are sliding calipers then my guess is someone has removed the rubber sleeves probably when they blinged up the calipers, I hope it wasn't you!

I think its the foam that degrades, you say it is becoming "increasingly uncomfortable", was the drivers seat ever comfortable? All my Skodas the seats have worn through the side bolster from getting in and out and the foam degraded well before the cars were run in, my figure for that is over 200k miles, the point at which the piston rings were finally bedded in and the tiny oil consumption (1/2 litre top up if I went well beyond my 10K mile service limit) stopped altogether. On the MK1 I changed the lower cover and bolster for one from a breakers yard, it was far more comfortable, I have just changed the seat on my 1980's micro tractor and my derrière is thanking me. Leather seats probably spread the load a little but once the foam has degraded they can be just as uncomfortable.

Crikey, prices have gone even more crazy than I thought. 4 years ago I bought the Yeti just before the confinement as a write off project for £3200 and spent £800 doing the repairs (main costs were airbags, seatbelt pretensioners, dashboard, AC condensor and front crash beam) meaning it cost me £4k, at the time a proper undamaged car was not worth an awful lot more, 4 years later the same vehicles now 4 years older and with higher mileage are going for 3 times the price. The shortages during Covid and maybe the undesirability and stupid price of new vehicles have driven up second hand prices insanely. I bet back then your car would only have sold for £11K. The Yeti was good value for me as second hand vehicle prices in France have always been much much higher, it was my last chance to import a cheap RHD vehicle before the UK left the EU, mine is a keeper, rust was confined to the brake discs and backplates, I have driven 55000 miles in it and spent maybe €100-200 on improvements, brake and suspension parts not £4K. 4 new tyres last week (fitted by myself) cost double what I have spent to date.

You have spent more than four grand on a very rusty car, I hope you see some benefit from it, at your age (I am close) you probably thought this was a keeper but with that much rust I'm not sure that will work out to be a good idea. You are now £15K + into an 8 year old vehicle, I know second hand prices have gone crazy but that sounds a lot even for a Minter.

All the calculated figures are fantasy and can even be reset to zero without even touching the DPF. The measured soot value compared to the calculated should give you some clue, that and the low DPF differential pressure 188 miles after a regen suggest all is still well with the DPF.

Relevant facts would be the number of asylum seekers returned to France before the Dublin agreement ended in 2021 preventing it happening which lack several zeros compared to the numbers arriving. 2015 - 510 returns 2016 - 362 returns 2017 - 314 returns 2019 - 209 returns of which 51 to France. The modus operundi of the people smugglers evolved in response to tightened security at the Channel ports, it proved to be a much more successful and profitable strategy for them, they and their customers care not how few were returned, what is important to their business model is how many get over there, small boats is working very very well for them.

No, it 100% should be working where the photograph was taken, its a very good place to demonstrate it. Otherwise choose a wet day and a slippery junction where you know you would lose traction unless modulating the throttle and clutch, when safe to do so drive away far too rapidly like an inexperienced driver, you should feel some wheelspin and then a kick in the back showing the Haldex has engaged, if there is a way of disabling the EDL (is there a button?) but not the Haldex then that will make it clearer, the EDL manifests itself as a graunching (the brake being applied to the spinning wheel) noise and also engine torque limitation.

Neither your car nor my car have that vulnerability. For those who choose something like Skoda Connect then they have willingly put themselves in that situation, for vehicles like Tesla that do the on line updates etc and seemingly have constant internet connection does that mean you have to pay for a seperate data only mobile contract or have your mobile phone with you to drive the thing?

I can see from the video that the EDL is working (the snatching rotation of the RH front wheel) that would be enough to drag the vehicle out of a muddy field on the flat, take the guy to where you shot the video. Are you sure by going along with all this you are not shooting yourself in the foot and losing the right to rejection?

Hooking up to VCDS or whatever Multi-Marque diagnostic gear the mechanic uses and looking at the live data will immediately tell you if the Haldex is being commanded, if it is and the front wheel(s) is/are spinning wildly and the vehicle not moving then there is most likely a pump failure. I am hoping that it is not being commanded as that would likely be a simple and easier fix.

How could anyone on this forum forget anything to do with the B word when we have you to constantly remind us? Or indeed many things nothing to do with the B word.

Thanks for posting that and especially the video starting at the point where he does the demonstration, I understood all the relevant elements and did not need to go back but if I hadn't then it was all there. Until now I thought the stop mechanism was triggered by back pressure, they always seem to shut off when the fuel is approaching the top of the tank but by slowing down the flow I can get a couple more gallons in, it must in fact be splashes coming up the filler neck, and now I think about it I always withdraw the nozzle quite a way as it approaches that stage, its very noticeable when filling a Jerrycan. Your next task is to find a video explaining how the modern toilet cistern filling float valves work, I know the water pressure acts on the seal making it seal even tighter and causing a soft close off to avoid water hammer, I know they dont like working on first floor installs with a gravity fed loft cold water tank, I know they dont work when the tiny bleed hole in the membrane becomes blocked with calcaire but would like to see a cut away view to understand the function.

I dont think that small part of the exchange was selectively editted, he simply was talked over and not allowed to explain why he believes they should suffer the consequences of their actions, perhaps he did so afterwards if so then it was selective editting, I doubt though that he could get a further word in.

How did we get from Flying Cars to Illuminated Chocolate Starfish?

The front wheels dont need to slip for the Haldex coupling to engage in many circumstances where the controller does pre-emptive engagement. The one I experienced multiple times today was towing a heavily loaded tipping trailer (all up weight about 2 tonnes) up a muddy slope where the digger has just been laying sewage pipes in the rain, I pulled away very gently to maximise the traction and each and every time the 4wd was engaged without any slippage of the front wheels, the tyre tracks bear this out. It engaged due to the calculation of torque being applied using inputs from the engine revs, throttle opening, wheel speed, clutch position sensor and accelerometers, in this instance probably the first 2 being the dominant ones, it knew a lot of torque was being transmitted but the vehicle was barely moving and engaged the Haldex before a front wheel span. If I pull away madly fast across a wet junction with the steering straight ahead then I can feel a front wheel slip before the Haldex cuts in, if I pull away a little more progressively modulating the throttle and clutch as if the vehicle was FWD the Haldex cuts in but you dont feel it as there was no front wheel slippage. The same manouevre turning right onto the main road from my road will have the Haldex pre-emptively engaged because the steering is turned to the right, there I can pull away like a Hoon with no front wheel slippage.

Not wrong and you dont need a degree in Thermodynamics to realise, anyone who has owned petrol and diesel vehicles used for short urban journeys will know simply by how much they save at the fuel pumps. "even more de minimus on a diesel engine where there is no enrichment as soon as the compression ignition cycle is self sustaining," Are you going to say that is wrong on so many levels? A simple yes or no will suffice, save another demonstration of your extensive knowledge for someone that might be impressed by it. To explain for others a petrol engine runs an enriched mixture (choke = low MPG) until it reaches operating temperature, a diesel engine runs an enriched mixture only for starting on glowplugs, once it has started no further enrichment after a maximum of a couple of seconds. Modern petrol engine achieve impressive economy on long journeys, rivalling and even beating diesel but will never hold a candle to a diesel on short journeys, unfortunately for anything EU5 and onwards short journeys are a catastrophy for the DPF so petrol is better even though it will cost more on fuel.

I do know what you are talking about, and it had no relevance to my posting, I will ask you the question one more time in case you missed it: FYI This month zero income, the same as every month since Covid.

I learn something every day, sounds like it is replicating what must happen with a start button on a diesel engine.

Mine had done 79K miles and never been serviced, loads of schmoo on filter but no more than some of you who do frequent low mileage Haldex services. I have done another 53K miles and its still functioning correctly, I have been saying for ages that I must do it again but have so much other more important stuff going on like a roof above my head. It will be interesting to see how the filter looks this time. Re the OP, it sounds like the selling dealer has no idea other than competence in BS101 and that they and ultimately the OP have been taken for a ride by the transmission specialist who has removed a perfectly functioning differential needing at worst a service and a new Haldex pump and replaced it with one from a breakers yard that still does not engage the 4WD.

Waffle waffle waffle............................., does the "actually" signify that somewhere in the waffle you are correcting something I have said that is incorrect? I'm surprised you didn't mention how much you earn and pay into your pension.

Yes I can see one as well but not serious amounts of weights on both sides, maybe he meant on both sides of the inner rim (as photographed) but I cant see them, I can see some residue of the double sided tape from previous weights. The bead is seated on the rim to my eyes, there seems to be a lot of imaginative speculation for what is quite normal (abnormal) rear tyre wear!

Mmmmm......................................... Implausible but I am not the person experiencing it first hand.

Unless you people can see something that I cannot the inner tyre bead is fitted correctly and from the limited view I can see only one weight on the inner rim and can not see the outer rim at all. If you want to see an incompetent tyre fitter then watch me struggling with my 4 new tyres and my manual tyre changer and an unsuccessful modification to use a duckbill removal/refitting head like the pro machines use, I did not realise that on these alloys there is not a well for the inner bead like there is on the outer rim (it just tapers to the outer well) and that the inner bead must be broken progressively all the way around the rim, outer bead can be broken in the normal one shot way. The tyre wear looks like typical IRS negative camber wear exacerbated by sagging springs and/or carrying heavy loads.