Hi

I've just started having problems with my 2011 skoda fabia. 

There is a relay clicking in the dash and the battery light is coming on intermittently and the rpm is not stable it goes up and down a bit. 

I have diagnosed it via the odb port and got the following fault codes. 

P0018F5:

Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation bank 2 sensor A

 

P002E40:

B camshaft profile actuator A control circuit low bank 2

 

P0135:

02 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1

 

I have a brand new battery that I swapped out 2 months ago and the problem started yesterday randomly 

17 minutes ago, Tobb3 said:

the battery light is coming on intermittently and the rpm is not stable

Which make me thing of a dying alternator and idle stabilisation control. Ask at a reputable indy garage near you.

16 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

Which make me thing of a dying alternator and idle stabilisation control. Ask at a reputable indy garage near you.

Is there a way to test the alternator to rule out any other problems?

3 hours ago, Tobb3 said:

Is there a way to test the alternator to rule out any other problems?

Again "Ask at a reputable indy garage near you."

3 hours ago, Tobb3 said:

Is there a way to test the alternator to rule out any other problems?

 

Yes, but you need a multimeter.

22 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes, but you need a multimeter.

I've got one. Where do I test and what voltage is considered normal 

6 hours ago, Tobb3 said:

I've got one. Where do I test and what voltage is considered normal 

 

Just check DC volts across the battery before and after starting the engine, you should get 12.7V from a healthy battery before starting the engine and something around 14.4V with the engine running.

To check rectification test for the presence of any AC  voltage when running. Post results here.

On 26/03/2024 at 19:14, sepulchrave said:

 

Just check DC volts across the battery before and after starting the engine, you should get 12.7V from a healthy battery before starting the engine and something around 14.4V with the engine running.

To check rectification test for the presence of any AC  voltage when running. Post results here.

I've done some testing now and the battery voltage was low so charged it up and the battery waring light diapered but the relay is still clicking and when I rev the engine to 2000rpm I still only get around 12.5v and not 14 v I've checked the alternator main fuse and it's intact so it is probably the alternator that's gone bad? 

Yes, bad alternator or dodgy wiring.