Paws4Thot

@Badgeriferous - Clutch; I'd check the DMF when it's open, and make an informed decision on the replacement at that time.

So it turns out that changing your usertag results in changing the usertag that someone else has blocked to whatever your new tag is!

Not the foggiest, but you could try looking on the RossTech wiki.

I wasn't aware that the Ford ASBO was an accomplished figure skater.

The last time I saw an issue like this, the underlying problem was a worn out lower ball joint at the affected side.

Get shareware VCDS first, because you'll need it to bleed the ABS control block properly.

Clear now? It's not a broken wire, just the core, so you need to continuity test the wires, not just look at them.

It's most likely a broken core in the driver's or passenger door wiring bellows. I guess you can cope with fault tracing if you have some idea where to look?

The LED is for the door deadlocks, and nothing to do with the alarm system. As the car is 19 years old (based on your metadata, thanks) the alarm battery may well be dead.

Also @skomaz And where would it place someone like myself, who has a blue badge, but from an authority who do not issue a "parking clock"?

If you need to adjust the steering every 10 seconds on a straight road, there are "other issues" and you should give up driving for the benefit of the other 27 million of us!

Never been in a Zoey, but I have been in my neighbour's Nissan Leave (sic), and hard pass on being in that for its 2 hour unrefuelled extra-urban range.

This sounds like a known issue where the pinouts on a genuine VAG stereo are different to those on an aftermarket (eg Panasonic) system. I think you need an adapter plug, which should be available from stereo dealers, to correct the pinouts.

So you think the slot under the mantlet will somehow prove to be more of a vulnerability on Challenger 3 than it was on 1 or 2?

Does it turn off on the key? If not, it's definitely wired up wrong.