New Octavia just bought, only to repair and sell. Experience with clutch replacement?

[rbhelle]

Hi from Norway here, I just bought a 2010 Octavia 1Z5 4x4, 1.6tdi CAYC and 6spd manual MQ350 gearbox. Has now 125 000 miles on the clock. Got for 384 GBP, so it was really a bargain.

I have identified the following need of repairs (inspection, VCDS and experience):

Complete Sachs clutch (flywheel and all)

Change Ridex Timing belt an water pump

Change Ridex EGR valve/cooler replacement (yeah it has some leaks)

Change Webasto recirculation pump V55

Front brake pads Bosch

AC service

febi Bilstein Haldex service and of course a engine oil service.

All parts cost me around 1000 GBP taxes and shipping included (autodoc)

Have my own garage with hydraulic scissor lift, so my estimates are approx 20 hours labour. Bought all parts needed and then some. I see that there are some really time consuming disassembly of parts just to do the clutch, so I plan to lower the subframe, remove the DPF and then get some work space under the car.

 

Anyway, in Norway, this car will sell for somewhere between approx 4 200 - 5 000 GBP, so I hope to earn some when I sell it in a few weeks. Have anyone here found a good video on how to do clutch on a 4x4 Octavia?

I do have the Elsawin manual, but it is also a good thing to actually see a video on the replacement also. just to be sure.

Have done some VAG clutches before, but never on a 4x4 .

So all tips are welcome!

As depicted, the car really need a inside cleansing... I use Karcher Puzzi 8/1 for that kinda issues.

Edited 22 April by rbhelle
spelling

[rbhelle]

Well, just started. Took down the subframe, dpf and all drive axles. Since I need to service the webasto Thermotop V, I disassembled that also. To get that out, you need to take down the front bumper and to do that you need to take out the front head lights and of course the lower lights as well. Biggest pain was actually taking out the washer fluid container.

 

When DPF and lower subframe assembly down, wow, what a spacious room one got to take down the gearbox! 

[rbhelle]

And here is the subframe assembly. No problem replacing the stabilizer bushings. But I used T10096 guiding pins to lock the subframe. Makes it easier to avoid 4-wheel alignment when assembly the subframe.

[rbhelle]

Next up is t start doing the timing belt and water pump. There has been a leak, and previous owner thought it came from EGR cooler, but it is actually the water pump that is fauwlty. So will do that next. 

Also found out what caused VCDS to report "coolant pump V55 on the webasto to report fault" It was the connecting cable between the webasto and the circulation pump that had a rusty pin. So need to replace that as well. That had caused the webasto to "lock" and after unlocking in vcds, it was just this cable that reported fault.

Also as you see in picture, when the webasto connecting cooler pipes are removed, this gives much easier access to the timing belt area. But, you do not need to remove these. That is not necessary for a timing belt change.

[rbhelle]

Well, thread started as clutch change, but it is now much more than that. Today I started working on timing belt/water pump replacement. I must say have you done one VAG car before, they are all the same. Also disassembled the radiator fans to prepare for gearbox work. Pretty straight forward job.

[rbhelle]

1 minute ago, rbhelle said:

Well, thread started as clutch change, but it is now much more than that. Today I started working on timing belt/water pump replacement. I must say have you done one VAG car before, they are all the same. Also disassembled the radiator fans to prepare for gearbox work. Pretty straight forward job.

 

 

Edited 1 May by rbhelle