rbhelle

Well sure, but I am in Norway, so guess it is cheaper to get one from UK 🙂 I plan to sell it for approx 4500 - 5000 GBP. Bought it for 384 GBP (yes, you read it right, 384 GBP). Seller wasn't too happy to pay workshop to do all reapirs for more than 5000 GBP that he was offered.... Need following repairs: clutch+dual mass flywheel timing chain and water pump egr cooler (no need, but crazy not to do when all is accessble) new cable for the V55 coolant circ pump webasto service webasto oil/filter change and service haldex oil/filter and clean out haldex pump filter. Will also replace front/rear diff oil when it is already on carjack.

Think maybe this picture shows where to use them. Blue and red color (one pin each color)

You see one of them here on tis picture. Need 4 of them in total. One for the lower control arm (big 18mm bolt) and the other through the subframe arm bolted to the frame (also 18mm bolt) on each side.

Hi J.R. Well, I have mounted the pins, so time will show if those makes it easier to find the "witness marks". I have 2 transmission jacks, so yeah, I will use one of them 🙂 Did the gearbox on a FWD manual Golf last year, and that gearbox wasn't all to heavy. But not yet sure if I have to dismount this one together with the 4x4 trans case. If so, I guess a trans jack is the proper way to go 🙂

These are the ones. Yes they have movable eccentric that are locked in position when mounted. Asta Adjustment Bolts A-SUBF4 Fit VW Audi Fitting OEM T10096 : Amazon.com.be: Automotive

Next up is t start doing the timing belt and water pump. There has been a leak, and previous owner thought it came from EGR cooler, but it is actually the water pump that is fauwlty. So will do that next. Also found out what caused VCDS to report "coolant pump V55 on the webasto to report fault" It was the connecting cable between the webasto and the circulation pump that had a rusty pin. So need to replace that as well. That had caused the webasto to "lock" and after unlocking in vcds, it was just this cable that reported fault. Also as you see in picture, when the webasto connecting cooler pipes are removed, this gives much easier access to the timing belt area. But, you do not need to remove these. That is not necessary for a timing belt change.

And here is the subframe assembly. No problem replacing the stabilizer bushings. But I used T10096 guiding pins to lock the subframe. Makes it easier to avoid 4-wheel alignment when assembly the subframe.

Well, just started. Took down the subframe, dpf and all drive axles. Since I need to service the webasto Thermotop V, I disassembled that also. To get that out, you need to take down the front bumper and to do that you need to take out the front head lights and of course the lower lights as well. Biggest pain was actually taking out the washer fluid container. When DPF and lower subframe assembly down, wow, what a spacious room one got to take down the gearbox!

But, I must say, if you just lower the whole subrame assembly, it gives you tremenduosly space 🙂 It is actually very easy to lower the subframe. On the other hand, just make sure you got the guiding pins T10096 installed. Using these, and hopefully you won't need to do an 4-wheel alignment after taking down the subframe.

If it is the front bushings, you will need to lower the front subframe assembly into service position aka lower it approx 10cm. This will give you access to the front anti rollbar bushings. But whenyou lower the subframe, it is recommended to use guide pins on the lower control arm adapter connected to the chassis and also the front bolts on the subframe both sides.

No need to bleed abs module, unless the module i new or you have sucked the resevoir dry and lots of air in it. Regular brake fluid change done correctly requires no vcds.

Used this one, very comfortable if you ask me 😉

No need to heat the oil before draining, but I would recommend you to take a drive. Much easier to drain when up to temp. Yup, whe you top up the initial filling, fire up your car, run through all the gears 10 sec each gear, just to suck all oil up and to get some temp. Should be appox 40 degrees. After that you check the level. Either ok or pump some more oil into the transmission. So yeah your procedure is correct.

Hi from Norway here, I just bought a 2010 Octavia 1Z5 4x4, 1.6tdi CAYC and 6spd manual MQ350 gearbox. Has now 125 000 miles on the clock. Got for 384 GBP, so it was really a bargain. I have identified the following need of repairs (inspection, VCDS and experience): Complete Sachs clutch (flywheel and all) Change Ridex Timing belt an water pump Change Ridex EGR valve/cooler replacement (yeah it has some leaks) Change Webasto recirculation pump V55 Front brake pads Bosch AC service febi Bilstein Haldex service and of course a engine oil service. All parts cost me around 1000 GBP taxes and shipping included (autodoc) Have my own garage with hydraulic scissor lift, so my estimates are approx 20 hours labour. Bought all parts needed and then some. I see that there are some really time consuming disassembly of parts just to do the clutch, so I plan to lower the subframe, remove the DPF and then get some work space under the car. Anyway, in Norway, this car will sell for somewhere between approx 4 200 - 5 000 GBP, so I hope to earn some when I sell it in a few weeks. Have anyone here found a good video on how to do clutch on a 4x4 Octavia? I do have the Elsawin manual, but it is also a good thing to actually see a video on the replacement also. just to be sure. Have done some VAG clutches before, but never on a 4x4 . So all tips are welcome! As depicted, the car really need a inside cleansing... I use Karcher Puzzi 8/1 for that kinda issues.

Perfect, should do the trick to get it up to temp again. Often many replace engine thermostat, when in fact it is the dsg thermostat that i causing the problem. Much easier to test the dsg thermostat to verify. Disassemble, run cold water through nad if water just pours through it, its broken, replace. If water halts and sizzles through it, it is ok and engine thermostat is more likely the source to low coolant temps.

When I do similar jobs during wintertime, I drive 30min so all things are heated. The oil is also stored indoor in a warm place beforehand. So, when things have to reach a specific temp to check levels, things are already at a decent temp even if the garage has only 10-15 degrees celcius indoor. Has worked flawlessly to my needs so far. Same procedure goes with front, rear diffs and haldex as well when things have to have some temp to check levels.

Probably one of the best tutorials in here. So many thanks! This was equal to what is presented in Elsa workshop manual. 2h seems to be plausible when not able to use carlift but on jackstands, mainly due to working conditions 😉 Did this job on my own DQ250 yesterday and used the same kit from Febi also bought on autodoc. I used a ATF pump with adapter for DSG, so saved some time there I guess. Job all done within 1h. In Norway they now quote approx 300 GBP for this job, some 350 GBP (main dealership). So definitively some bucks to save for a job easy done as DYI if one have the tools. I change DSG oil/filter every 30-35 000km (18-20 000 miles). That is 1/2 the recommended maximum mileage from main dealer. I guess it is cheaper to do it than to risk a new DSG gearbox since I use mine in cold temps and occasionally pulling a camper.

Hi, Norway here. Thank you for a very nice writeup! Detailed and elaborate. Didn't see this thread until now, but there is one little "fault" in your write up. As someone else commented in the thread, the engine must be running when you check the level, if you stop the engine and then tighten the sump plug, your box will be underfilled. Unless you are very fast when replacing fill device with sump plug. This method also leaves a lot of spill. The recommended method is to leave the engine running after it reaches temp between 35-45 degrees celcius, disconnect filling hose, let excess fluid drain until dripping, and then tighten the sump plug (hex14). That way the DQ250 will be correctly levelled with oil. Also one commentedm how do you disconnect battery and connect VCDS/OBD11. Simple answer is, you don't. Do all the job in the engine bay first (battery, tray, filter etc) and reconnect everything before you even start under the car. Some fault codes will be detected, but just erase all and ignore. They will disappear once you start driving (steering angle and esp will come up as fault). Followed the VAG procedures from Elsawin. I use a special filling pump and a adapter filling from bottom as specified from VW/Skoda/Audi. I paid 39GBP for it at Aliexpress. Removed air filter housing, battery and tray. All done within 1 hour using a carlift. Paid 65 GBP for a Febi complete set with 6ltr oil (891,- NOK) equals 65GBP), filter and sump plug from autodoc. Car has now 134'miles on the clock. I used OBD 11 to monitor dsg temp. Easier to use since it is bluetooth connected. Do have VCDS as well, but that cable is a pain when you have the car liftet above head height 🙂 Total price incl all parts and pump: 104GBP Last time this was done on my car in March 2022 at 116'miles the owner paid 280 GBP at a shop (Norwegian prices are pretty high) all included (oil, filter, plug and labor) So, prices for doing this has risen couple of last years. Now in 2024 it is over 300 GBP for the same job as in 2022. I replace DSG oil/filter on my DQ250 every 18'miles (30'km) approx. every 2nd year with my mileage estimates/use.

Mostly it stays on 90 degrees in the display meter. But when temperatures reaches below -16 degrees celcius, I notice that the gauge moves from 90 degree mark down to maybe 75 mark when rolling down a hill. Moves straight up again when accelerator is active. Its just the way these engines are constructed. How do I know the temp? I use OBD 11 live data to check coolant temp.

Well, I would do them all. It is still a wild guess what is draining battery. If you know that you have noticed it after you installed something lately, maybe that will guide you. If nothing is done...well, do them all :-)

I would say that it should not be more than 200-300 mA (0,2-0,3A) if car is in deep sleep mode. Precondition before test is conducted: all doors closed. Open bonnet, use key to lock car. Wait 30-60min to be sure that car enters deep sleep mode. Then use clamp amperemeter on the positive cable and measure. If value is above approx 0,4-1A, well, open doors and lock car again. Or use a screwdriver to engage door locks to a "locked" position. Wait 30-60min and this time, have someone take out fuse by fuse and see when clamp amperemeter drainage drops to normal value (from 0A to 0,3A).

Well, you should try it. I have a pretty cheap one. UNI-T UT203R is mine. Search for it, not an expensive one, but does the job. Measure DCA between 0,04-400A. I paid 45 Gbp.

Oh, buy yourself a clamp Amperemeter and use around the positive cable. Then remove fuse by fuse to see when a amp drop/increase happens. Then you know what drains your power.

Your temp sensor reports short to ground, so check the wiring.

Well, when it comes to VW Skoda Audi dault codes I am not convinced...sometimes things just happen without a probable cause. But yeah, it should flag a code of some sort. Would be wise to just disconnect all temp sensor and measure them. Or maybe check for leaks og any pins broken etc. It is at least free of charge 😅