Hi.I have a problem with my Favorit .Everytime when I run with hi speeds,80 - 90 -100 km/ , and when I change the speed to run with 40km/h but I keep presing the clutch pedal,the engine turation is going down until it stops.This situation is very dangerous ,since with engine stoped I have no more brakes !!Can someone tell me what can I do??

is it carb or fuel injected??

It is carb.

it's might be caused by the petrol freezing when you go into over-run which stops the engine

Even when there are 10 grade C??

the jikov(pierburg) carb fitted to the favorit is well known to suffer from icing, particularly if the hot air ducting from the exhaust manifold is missing or badly corroded.

The problem isnt so much to do with ambient air temperature but the humidity of the air, the air pressure changes in the carb take temperatures down below freezing, and if theres a lot of moisture in the air this will collect and freeze inside the carb. Check that hot air ducting to the airfilter box.

the jikov(pierburg) carb fitted to the favorit is well known to suffer from icing, particularly if the hot air ducting from the exhaust manifold is missing or badly corroded.

The problem isnt so much to do with ambient air temperature but the humidity of the air, the air pressure changes in the carb take temperatures down below freezing, and if theres a lot of moisture in the air this will collect and freeze inside the carb. Check that hot air ducting to the airfilter box.

:iagree:

That used to happen to my VW Beetle , I had to fit an 'IMDU' , and inlet manifold de icing unit , basically a little electric blanket for the inlet manifold!

quite a lot of cars have a water heated manifold or throttle body to combat this problem too!

Hello.My carb it is heated by the water from the radiator.

Yes they are on all favorits but that alone isnt always enough, they also as standard have heat shroud over the exhaust manifold and a flexi pipe that leads warm air up to the airfilter.

The pierburg 2e3 carb (and the jikov copy) is VERY susceptible to carb icing, even with a heated manifold - many people have found on other cars that when they replace a rotted or missing exhaust manifold heat shroud and air ducting that their problems dissapear.

Before we start looking elsewhere for problems could you just check this is in place and in good condition? If this is not in place things become more difficult to diagnose remotely and can lead to parts being replaced unecesarily. Its VERY hard to diagnose running problems from text descriptions over the internet :(.

Other possibilities, the fuel filter can become blocked up, sometimes dirt can get past the fuel filter and sit in the carb float chamber and only be dragged up to block needles under certain conditions. Theres a relay that has been known to cause problems with the anti dieseling solenoid on the carb, this can be very tempremental and can be affected by certainy types of car movement etc. Theres alsorts of possibilities in the way of airleaks in hoses etc, or fuel pressure problems.

Very interesting dear ugluk.Thank you for support.I wil start to verify all those things

.Under my carb I have a heatting "thing" ,it has 2 ohms,and I want to know if the ECu is still "powering" it.I don't know at what temperature is working and where is the relay.....

ECU on a carb powered skoda? The carb powered favorits didnt have an ECU. Do you know what year your skoda was manufactured? What colour is the dashboard? in the UK grey dashboard models were single point injection the brown dashboad were carb.

The single point injection favorits had ECU's and lambda sensors. They are prone to an entirely different range of faults.

My Skoda is from year 1992 model LE 135 and I have a Ecotronic on it.

The dashboard is brown.

Hmm Ive not came accross the ecotronic carb before :(. It sounds like an electronic version of the 2E3 carb from a quick search of google, will have to dig around for faults specific to this system. Unfortunately I dont have any manuals here that cover the ecotronic system :(.

It might be worth seeing if the choke mechanism is working correctly by taking the vehicle out for 15 minutes or so of normal driving then pulling over somewhere safe and taking the airfilter off, to make sure the choke is open.

Edit:

IVe just dug out my dealer service book, and it doesnt list the Ecotronic carb there either :( although the 115 engine is - and that Ive heard of but dont think was released in the uk.

Definetely check the choke is operating correctly as Ive already said, check the airfilter isnt clogged up, check your fuel filter isnt blocked, and see if you can find out how to adjust idling settings. Unfortunately there is very little information about the ecotronic setup available in English I assume it was never widely used over here :(.

Hi.?I have a pdf about Ecotronic but it is in russian.

I spent about 2 hours trying to teach myself russian about 20 years ago, so Im not going to be able to make much use of that :(.

I really would recommend making the checks Ive suggested so far about choke operation air filter fuel filter etc, see if those throw up any nice simple easy to fix problems.

Hello .I want to ask you,before I start to change the fuel filters , if the vapor separator filter may be partial blocked.My air filter is new (3 month) , I have installed an auxiliar filter(one time use) after the fuel pump , and I have another filter before fuel pump( was there when I bought the car) model : Bosch ,code : 0 450 905 002.About this one,the last owner says that it is new ,but..... .

Something similar happened to my old Favorit. It would be fine running around town, but take it up to 70m.p.h. on the motorway and it would cut out, after a while it would restart, then one day it wouldnt start. i had the fuel checked before, when the mechanic arrived ,he found the rotor arm was loose and sliding up the rotor shaft- new rotor arm no more problems!

Hello Flabio.I just don't understand what rotor are you talking about.

are you sure your's isn't a single point injection model??

if yours doesn't have a rotor it's likely to be a later engine with wasted spark coilpack....

can you take a picture and post it please??

Hello. A picture with what TeflonTom??

Ive found a small amount of information on the system hes talking about and it was a never released in the uk halfway house between injection and carb, it was pierburg electronic carb with a bosch ECU??? It appears to have been used by VW Skoda and BMW but theres no real information on it in English :(.

The rotorarm is underneath the distributor cap, follow all your spark plug leads back to a round cap thats held down by two clips remove the cap (leaving leads still attached) and check the plastic arm underneath is secure. looks something like this :-

http://www.elkparts.com/images/rotorarm.jpg

Even if it was single point injection it would have a Rotor arm. The SPI favorits still had a dizzy unlike the MPI felicias.

Teflon Tom wants a picture of your engine bay, so we can see the system. HAve to say Id be interested to see the engine bay with this system as well, being as IVe never heard of it before.