English is not my native tounge so i hope i make some kind of sense )

About a year ago i was a lucky owner of a Honda Civic. Our relationship latest over 95.000km and we seemed to like eachother and nothing over normal service was replaced. Now im a member of the never ending cycle of VAG/Skoda errors

The latest one is the code in the title

18047 P1639 Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor 1+2 Range/Performance

I bought and replaced the pedal and of course the epc lamp is still glowing in my rather sad face.

Im kind of unsure what program we used to get the code, its not vag-com but something kind of alike. Also used the function to align(or whatever its called) but with no change.

So i hope for some wise skoda men or women will shine some light over my not so lovable car )

I found the 2 references below to this fault on the TDIClub forum. They may be of help.

Odd happenings on highway - TDIClub Forums

no accelleration - TDIClub Forums

Thx

This part sounds just like my problem

"Dieseldorf was kind enough to provide the interpretation for this code, which basically means that the ECU isn't seeing your accelerator pedal input (or it's out of range) for some reason. In this case, the ECU will default to a limp mode where you only have idle speed or a little bit more. Upon turning the car (and ECU) off, you then reset this limp mode until the problem happens again.

So this is probably what happened to you--as you were accelerating, the variable resistor hit a dead spot, ECU then set a code and went into limp mode (meaning that the accelerator pedal is disabled), but you were probably still in gear and just didn't realize it since the engine was only idling and "flooring it" had no effect at all.

You can either attempt to fix this yourself, or bring it to a competent mechanic and tell him/her what code you have been getting. It could be the variable resistor itself (my hunch) or an intermittent connection somewhere in the circuit.

Also, do a search for "coolant migration" on this site--this is where engine coolant leaks through the level switch in the coolant reservoir (or through a coolant temp. sensor on the engine, but this is more rare) and then seeps through some or all of the vehicle's wiring--this can wreak havoc with just about anything electrical on the car (all the way back to the taillights). Not trying to scare you on this, but it would be worth pulling the connector off of the level sensor on the coolant reservoir and checking it for any sign of moisture inside--if you see some, continue taking apart some of the other electrical connectors on the vehicle (such as the one to the ECU) and checking for any moisture and/or corrosion which may be present. Corrosion from coolant migration can cause intermittent electrical problems."

Can you reset the ecu by disconnect the battery ??

And forgot to mention that if i leave the car for a longer while the "computer" resets itself