travs

Not a term I’ve heard for a while! Propshaft donut was always a thing on E36 BMWs. Soft donk when engaging reverse to remind you it was there. Good tip though - cheers Mario.

Interesting. For paint thickness I’m not sure you’ll find anything that will hold them bang to rights. Although some of those figures sound horrendous - not sure my NexPTG would read paint that thick. As for recourse on damage, having always had a weird shape in my rear bumper since buying it at 6m old from a Carr’s Exeter in Sept ‘21 as the GM’s company car, and now having been hit up the rear last week, you can see evidence that the rear bumper has been damaged and filled before respray. They never mentioned a thing - I wouldn’t have cared. I’d never get anything from them but it was a **** move by them.

I have a 2021 L&K and I have heated and cooling front seats but the rear are only heated. Perhaps you have the same? @numskull - you have a 2016 L&K? Do you have heated and cooled front and heated-only rear?

Looks like ECS tuning one but with a different sticker like here

I’d say the Octavia is more lively for track/b-road. The Superb is a big family motorway cruiser; more room, more sedate. I think the 280 power suits it really well for that. Plenty of options for replacing/upgrading parts etc

I like - along with the oil filler and washer fluid filler cap etc. but then I see the price and am sad

They’re very effective. Drove down to in-laws with the kiddies and with the rear screen from @Tankdave and these, it was like being in a blacked-out limo in the back. 5 days from Order to Door from Australia is decent too.

Having 2 small children and a sunny time of year, I thought it would be a nice touch getting the roller-blinds built in but they're expensive. Instead I went for Snapshades magnetic ones which pretty much cover the entire glass area and is very quick and easy.

I'd change the whole thing given the age and mileage; components are going to start showing their age so you'll be saving hassle by replacing the arm which includes 2 bushes and the bottom ball joint. You'll find they're just as likely referred to as Lower Control Arms or LCAs. You can get the aluminium ones (pattern parts from Autodoc) but you have to be careful which model as per this post - Passat and Arteon are ok, Golf parts are not as they're too short so make sure it isn't that. I'd also consider changing both sides as it goes, for the same reason.

Yeah I'd leave that to someone who knows what they're doing if it comes to repairing physical damage as opposed to ingrained dirt. Heat on interior materials (especially plastics) is something suggested on a lot of forums but its a short-term effect and in the longer term it'll look worse. Check out auto-recon ronnie on instagram - american bloke who's a wizard when it comes to repairing interior materials but he's been doing it since the dawn of time.

I'm swapping rears to fronts in perfectly workable condition. If I didn't, I'd end up with old cracked tyres at the rear after going through several sets of fronts, even on an AWD when the rears should be chiming-in on occasion. Always been the way except in a rwd 3-series. Whilst I don't disagree that traction at the front isn't essential, I don't think its the "essentialness" of grip in question; we're splitting hairs over when to swap tyres rather than re-educating ourselves away from running tyres bald. So personally, I'd still prefer to lose the front-end than the back. I'd also prefer that to happen if my wife is driving too because the first thing she'd do is lift off and I wouldn't blame her for that.

Why?! For you that's every 2 years.

As above, generally my fronts wear quickest so when it comes the time to replace them, the rears go on the front and the new ones go on the rear. I want the front to give way first so the best tyres go at the back. Always the same make/model and only ever the 2 on the same axle. That is entirely my choice based on what I choose to believe etc. Each to their own and live and let live etc

Generally interior materials have some sort of grain; be it leathers or plastics. When you get marks on them the difficulty is often not getting into all the little cracks and differences in the surface. Generally, a damp cloth is great way to clean a lot of surface grime off - get a couple of light coloured flannels and you’ll see how the dirt comes off on them (choose cotton flannels so you can give them a hot wash as MF cloths shouldn’t be washed above 40degrees). However to get right into all the nooks and crannies then get a dedicated interior cleaner and a medium soft detailing brush - small circles moving around, so that the bristles get into every gap from different directions. Gentle pressure, let the tips of the bristles and the product do the work rather than pressure and elbow grease. For steering wheels, get a brush like a shoe brush (long and flat) rather than paintbrush long-handle. Same thing, spray product on the brush so you avoid overspray and gentle circles all around. Let us know how you get on @vblanche

Is this the Skoda tablet-holders? I have one and the head restraints didn’t need removing, just pushes between the two poles. Get your viewer some headphones; downside of it is the sound is right behind the driver’s head.