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Subs

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i have been meaning to replace my pioneer subs for a while as one is blown and the other just doesnt seem to kick like it used to.

currently i am running 2 x 10" pioneers and 2 12" pioneers but the bass is lacking majorly, i know my amp isnt running them at the optimum so although one 12 is burst and no longer working doesnt help, i'm going to bin the above for 2 infinity kappa perfect 12 vq's, i have wanted perfect 12's for a few years but never done anything about it until now.

i would have been cheaper getting two perfect 12's but the vq's were hard to resist.

so now i'm skint again but hopefully my install will be vastly improved, the amp should run the 2 12's without a problem if i ditch the 10's aswell.

heres the spec.. Infinity Kappa Perfect 12d VQ Car Stereo Subwoofer - Car Audio and Electronics Magazine

whats your views, did i make the right decision or should i have opted for another choice? i could always sell these again and make my money back :D

anyone want to buy 2 x 10" pioneers (with box) :lol: make me a decent offer and they can be yours.

  • 1 month later...

Maybe you should run 15" instead, i just have 1 x JBL GT3 500w sub enclosure and a 600w Legacy Amp and it shakes the car to bits, air movement also hurts the ears after a bit, Imo there is no need for any more bass than that, just my 2 pence :)

Sounds like (sorry for the pun :o) that the reason the sound wasn't good was because the volume of your sub box won't be matched to the sub.

It may have been ok when you had both original pioneer subs working, but as soon as one blew, you effectively had a sub running a box twice the size it should be.

There's a hell of a lot to sub box design and there's no generic box-fits-any-sub if you see what I mean.

I don't want to put you off - have a go, and if all else fails, maybe try making a box up out of mdf with a volume that matches the recommended specs of your new kappa sub :)

I have some nifty software at home, that was available on the web for free. As said above, sub enclosure design is not a simple task, and most generic box/sub packages you can buy are not that well matched. I ended up taking a fibreglass mould of the void in the boot, behind the rear left wheel in my Corrado, and capping it off at the correct volume for the sound response I wanted. It gives a crisp sound, and is neatly tucked in, without taking any usable boot space (plus I can get to the spare!).

I'll find out what softwaer it is once I get home.

Phil

firstly it depends what kind of sound you'd want, as you probably know 10's have sharper sound than 12's or 15's.. personally i think 15's are just vibrations with no quality of sound. but its preference..

Secondly I agree with the guys above, a box is what makes most of the sound you want. a decent twin 10 with proper box can easily produce more and nicer bass than twin 12's on a generic box. Theres alot to read about building boxes from sealed boxes to ported boxes with specific port locations for specific frequencies desired..

but basic line is:

Sealed = evenly spread frequency output, can be made smaller, however it puts more stress on the sub due to pressure in the box.

Ported = tend to prefere lower frequencies, needs bigger box but healthier for the sub's as its just pushing all the air out.

recommendations for me is if you want alot of bass try kicker L7's (12") although they dont tend to have specific boxes for them..., the new vibe twin 10s or 12s (V nice sound :D).

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