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Fabia Central Locking Kit Retro-Fit Guide


DanGB

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Hi all,

I done this on my old fabia and several people have asked for instructions so I shall post it up here :)

Was one hell of a project, blood sweat and tears come to mind!

Would of took me about 4 whole days if i done it at once.

Theres not too much technical knowledge involved, but its more about knowing how to take things apart and how to get to certain areas ( ie; under the steering wheel - ccu/fuse box etc.

It doesnt matter what order you do it in, as the doors are seperate from the rest of the wiring loom.

I pull all the poppers off, were very tight, dont be afriad to break it, theres no other way if you do lol!

I couldnt actually get the rear door cards away from the door, they are still slotted in at the top, must be glued in or something. I just worked underneath them which was a bit annoying. front door cards came off without too much trouble.

The motors attached fine, which are you having probnlems with, front or back? ive got photos if nessecery. the top bolt on the rear door motor did seem short but in the end it was long enough, just need to fiddling to get it on, bot much room to screw it.

The trim is very tightly clipped on. they all use these metel poppers (different from the doors) which you just nee to pull really tight. Several clips broke when removing, but as long as most dont break your ok!

The B pillar is quite differcault as there are several bits of trim slotted together, like where the seat dissapears down the whole on the side. but you jusdt need to try and work out how it all fits together, just aload of pulling and tulling and swearing! ive cut my fingers and 10 times throughout the whole project lol, and there still saw, but then again im only young so still have soft hands!

Remember the ground wire that goes to the grounding bolt in the boot next to the fuel filler. Needed to fold the seats forward and remove some carpet and woodern bit along the side of the inside boot to get to it, quite a struggle. Well the whole install was quite a struggle! not for the faint hearted!

Decoding those instructions was a right job! especially when you know hardly anything about cars.

removing the part underneath the steering wheel was ok, few torx screws and the headlight switch plus to take off, then the whole under steering wheel uni just rests on the floor. t helped to positioned the steering heel at its highest position. I also removed the bit of plastic between the wheel and clear window where the dials are. Again, dont be afriad to tug and pull at parts, its designed to be strong!

You need to take the fuse box out (and back fuse box cover off) to put the two wires into it. its fits very snug into the places where it is. The instructions say put the new fuse position in position 49, but i couldnt get to it as all the other fuse wires are in the way, so i just places the new fuse position at the bottom where it was empty. To get the two red wires fully into the fuse box you need to pull out the purple tab (on the row where you are placing the fuse.) then push the purple tab back in to lock the wires you have just put in, if that makes sense.

It its easy to connect the main red power wire (thick wire with the looophole on the end) .you just take a bit of plastic to reveal about 5 major red power cables, then just attach the loophole to the wire which is shown in the diagram.

The last major bit is to attach the single thin (black/brown?) wire to the cars control unit. You need to remove the control unit (immeditaly underneath the thick red power wires) from its holster, until it hangs down. then locate the black six pin connector called XP1 (mine already had a single wire in pin noe of the XP1 connector). pull this plug out (took a bit of fiddling with fingers to get it out). Again like the fuse box you have to pull out a purple tab to get the wire in there then lock it then plug the XP1 plug back in the control unit.

Something I done wrong is those four 'two piece' connectors which attach to the motor wires. I put the two pieces of the connector togther to make up the connector then put the 4 or 2 wires in after, but you need to put the wires in the first connector bit then attach the second part the lock in the wires. If that doesnt make any sense, ignore that bit, I was being a bit stupid with it.

sorry about the bad grammer etc!

hope that helps.

FAQ

I'm stuck at removing the A pillar trim on the drivers side. I've got all the metal clip off but the bonnet release handle is stopping me removing it anymore. I can't work out how to remove the handle. Any ideas?

just pulled back the edge of the trim open by the door and stuffed the wire behind it. after half and hour and wrecked hands I was sucessful

I'm stuck again at the main red power cable. I can't find the 3 bolts with the cables attached (red power cable should attach to the one 2nd from left).

Where are these bolts?

These are located behind a small black plastic cover. this is immediatly above the ECU Unit, and next to where you put in the control locking control module.

One last hitch, how do you remove the purple tab in the XP1 unit? There is a large section but it doesn't seem to budge. I thought it would just pull out but it doesn't. It is just a case of forcing it? I don't want to break the thing now I've got this far!

I think it just pulls out, im not 100% on that but I cant think what it could do. it was a while ago now lol!

Pictures of fitted parts: Click for very large images:

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Dan thanks SO much! Couple of q's, mine is actually just a remote locking kit (not the motors) so I guess that saves half of the job. Otherwise it's v.similar to yours. I need to connect the live and earth, 2 wires to the existing central locking and 2 to the indicators to show it's closed from outside.

1. Where did you earth yours?

2. I tried taking the underside of the steering wheel off last nite and I got all the torx screws out but it wouldn't quite come free and I was too nervous to pull it hard! Do I have to take any of the upper dash off to get the lower bit off i.e. the steering wheel etc?

3. Do you think I can connect to the indicators directly from the rear of the fuse box?

Thanks again Dan,

Jon

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  • 1 month later...

DanGP,

there is a small self tapping screw ,under the tweeter (which clicks out) perhaps this was why you could not get the rear door card completely off. If you look at the articles on resealing the door cards , they may be pictures of where the screw is fitted. Also the card is quite a tight fit,you have to pull it upwards ,to remove it , (where the rubber sealing strip presses against the window glass.

You also need to detach the door handle operating mechanical cable .

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  • 1 year later...

I fitted a rclick remote central locking kit a couple of months ago (from scratch, no central locking at all) thanks to this (and jonboyuk's) excellent guide, but I only finally got round to doing the boot release motor these last few days.

To put a long story short, the rclick motor I bought for the job wouldn't work out for me no matter how much I tried so I bit the bullet and bought a motorised skoda oem catch that I got from a scrapyard. I needed a M8 spline key for the bolts on the catch, and the catch cost me just over a tenner but IMHO it's really worth it. It's clearly much more powerful than the rclick motor and it works fine with the rclick kit too.

If anyones got an old "classic" fabia with no central locking and the annoying boot release catch, I would totally recommend buying the rclick (or similar) kit and then hunting down an old boot release somewhere. It's seems intimidating to start I guess, but once you get stuck in it's not that bad, there's no drilling required in any of the doors to attach the motors (there was holes already in the ancillary carrier that perfectly suited the kit that I had) and for just over 40 quid, including the skoda boot release, I think it's great value.

Thanks again for the great guide guys

:thumbup:

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  • 1 year later...

All the pictures are now unavailable. I take it once the door cards are off it's relatively easy to identify the motor mounting positions and that this can be done with the ancillaries carrier in place?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Also I am left feeling somewhat confused by the first post. There is mention of connecting to the car's control unit. Does this mean models without central locking fitted have the control unit fitted and you could hook up after-market motors to that and bin the cheapie relay thing included in the kit?

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  • 4 months later...
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