hello was wondering wats the highest bhp some one has got out of a felly? is the bhp for 1.6 only 75 bhp? if so how come it only lil gap frm 1.3 as mine has 68bhp . very starnge an would like more info on this cheers guys

It's because the Skoda design is better and gets more power from the engine

I guess the fastest felicia (without a complete engine swap) is a 1.6 with various mods.

naaah... it's mine, honest!

There's a Chzek guy called Robo had his 1.6 turbo'd & dyno'd at 97.4kW @ 5500 & 81.2kW at the wheels - 185 kph! 237.6Nm @3520rpm.

Translates as 125 bhp & 116mph. There's also 200kph on the readout too, but I dunno what reading that is. I'll get round to dyno readouts eventually I'm sure.

The VW 1.6 lump you're referring to was always a very "soft" tune. It first appeared in the Golf Mk1, and made 75brake on a single-choke carb and clockwork ignition, like most 1.6s of the day.

I can't help thinking that a turbo to make 120bhp is a bit of an effort, since you can have that from the 1.3 with a bit of engine work, and a standard 1.6 with Bosch K-jetronic will make 110.

The VW 1.6 lump you're referring to was always a very "soft" tune. It first appeared in the Golf Mk1, and made 75brake on a single-choke carb and clockwork ignition, like most 1.6s of the day.

I can't help thinking that a turbo to make 120bhp is a bit of an effort, since you can have that from the 1.3 with a bit of engine work, and a standard 1.6 with Bosch K-jetronic will make 110.

Apologies, he's a Slovak and he modded it in a barn using baler twine & chewing gum :lol: maybe that's why it's "special" and got a magazine write-up (in Slovakia).

Personally, I've never felt the need to add anything or take anything off a motor to make it go faster (yet, anyway :P) coz at the end of the day, it's not what you've got, it's how you drive it. If I can flick my Felly through a roundabout at 40 & the guy in the Beemer has to slow down to 30 to take it coz he's a chickensh*t driver, I win! I CGAFF if he then blasts past me at 80 or 90 & I have to slow down to let him in coz he's done a stupid thing & nearly caused a head-on, I've still won! If I can drive at no more than 28mph (30 on the clock) and make a police van do 40 to keep up with me/catch me - I did stop when he asked me to - then why do I need a beast? If I can overtake Audi TT's, BMW M3's, Porsches, Mercs etc. on the M/way coz I cruise at 85/90 (+) then I'm not going to pay over the odds for insurance or take a big hit in fuel costs for the sake of "looking flash" or whatever I honestly don't see the point, personally...

The 1.6 is quite quick anyway - it seems to have quite a lot of torque from low rev's, with the 1.3 you seem to have to keep the rev's up to keep it moving.

It does all depend on how you drive as well, I was perfectly happy with a 1.3 when I had them, you can easily get 100mph out of them - who wants to go quicker and loose their licence anyway?! The 1.3 seems to have a better ratio on 5th gear than the 1.6 - when you get up towards 85mph the 1.3 really starts to shift, the 1.6 is a bit more gradual (well in my experience anyway).

As stated before the 1.6 is an old engine, hence the lower bhp, but it will still shift and there is plenty you can do to it if you want to.

the 1.6 is heavy and the 1.3 is light. thats why there not to far apart speed wize.

but Psyzygy, my 1.6 will eat you on a rounderbout!!!

with the HP's, the anti roll bars and the wheels/tyers its like driving a different car.

It does all depend on how you drive as well, I was perfectly happy with a 1.3 when I had them, you can easily get 100mph out of them - who wants to go quicker and loose their licence anyway?!

Problem is, at least in mine, when you're sat at 70 and decide to overtake someone, while it can get to over 80mph quite happily (that's the fastest I dare go on the public highway) it takes quite a while with the foot to the floor unless you're going down hill. I probably need to go to 4th and rev it?

the 1.6 is heavy and the 1.3 is light. thats why there not to far apart speed wize.

but Psyzygy, my 1.6 will eat you on a rounderbout!!!

with the HP's, the anti roll bars and the wheels/tyers its like driving a different car.

Granted, if you can drive, you can drive

All I'm saying is that I don't mind if someone has a faster or better handling car than me or even if they're a bit nuttier sometimes What I DO know is that I drive a bog standard 12 year old Czech 1300 (well I did til it stopped :() and I run rings round a lot of people with cars that have windscreens that are worth more than my car!

Problem is, at least in mine, when you're sat at 70 and decide to overtake someone, while it can get to over 80mph quite happily (that's the fastest I dare go on the public highway) it takes quite a while with the foot to the floor unless you're going down hill. I probably need to go to 4th and rev it?

YOU DON'T??? The 1.3 will redline in 4th & occasionally it will hit the rev limiter (6000rpm) depending on conditions. And that's the standard 136B. Slip it into top at anything around 80 or 85 & it'll slide on up to 95 with ease :P

I don't think I've ever hit the rev limiter.

Had a fight with a firewall trying to say this yesterday.

Psyzygy, I wasn't aware that the turbo car was done by a Slovak. It makes more sense than a GTI unit plus freeflow and zorst now.

As for "how you drive" I agree. Plans for new dampers are cos I think the Octy is underdamped and suffers from float and heave as a result. Better brakes mean that you can slow down faster when you have to, which can just mean that you can stay on the throttle longer! That said, I try to not use the brakes, cos all they do is slow you down!! :eek:

Long term plans for engine tuning are to do with getting past the "safe" "40mph everywhere, irrespective of the actual speed limit" brigade easier!

The 1.6 is the fastest Felly I think.

According to the What Car websites data 0-60 in 12 seconds

The only thing is (on mine) accleration feels lethargic in town compared to my sisters Micra 1.0

On the Motorway espec joining at junctions, hit the warp button and it will gladly serve!!!

@Psyzygy - I know what you mean. My Felicia will gladly stick to the road (provided you don't push it too hard) but some drivers of other marques will gladly out accelerate a "lowly in their eyes" Skoda only to be seeing Skoda Badge looming in their mirrors when they crap themselves at a corner.

I don't think I've ever hit the rev limiter.

Try it sometime, you might like it

Had a fight with a firewall trying to say this yesterday.

Psyzygy, I wasn't aware that the turbo car was done by a Slovak. It makes more sense than a GTI unit plus freeflow and zorst now.

As for "how you drive" I agree. Plans for new dampers are cos I think the Octy is underdamped and suffers from float and heave as a result. Better brakes mean that you can slow down faster when you have to, which can just mean that you can stay on the throttle longer! That said, I try to not use the brakes, cos all they do is slow you down!! :eek:

Long term plans for engine tuning are to do with getting past the "safe" "40mph everywhere, irrespective of the actual speed limit" brigade easier!

Slovaks have the choice of Ladas, Brabants or Skodas to mess about with and whilst a GSXr 1100 engine in a Brabby might be :eek: and an Alpina engined Lada :hihi: I'd go for local tin anyday.

You've thought about the bouncy bits a lot more than I have, I'd prefer a firm confident ride over comfort as well. The only car I really noticed that on was the 626 (old, electric everything & none of it worked ). Making a car stop is, in my opinion, more important than making it go; having said that, brakes are for emergencies only

The 40 brigade are the same *&%£$@# who cruise at 70 on the clock in the middle lane :mad: and yes, a nice quick 2nd gear is good for the short overtaking opportunity when it arises - I thought 3rd was a bit short on the 1.3, then I took it on gravel :P

Well I'm off to find a 2nd hand ECU, it wasn't the immobiliser

Laters...

Bouncy bits tend to assume more importance when you do 3/4 of your mileage on them, rather than the well-ironed stuff around Notts.

I call the " who cruise at 60ish in the middle lane" the "Middle Lane Owners' Club", or MLOCs for short.

The fastest ones are probably the works kit cars. The 1.5 (based on the OHV engine) had about 160 bhp and the 1.6 (AEE) had 185bhp.

My 1,4 Fabia-engined Felicia rally car gives 116bhp at the flywheel - no idea what the performance figures are though, I'm afraid, I'm too scared to look down at the speedo....

:iagree:

I was going to ask about fitting the 1.4 MPI from a furball...

Rebored to 1.5? :P

:iagree: too.

I think you might need a Furbie wiring loom, to supply the connectors for the more complex EMS?

As Billy Connolly might say: Assa dawdle. Or maybe not

I think you might need a Furbie wiring loom, to supply the connectors for the more complex EMS?

And this:

That will be me.

You need to change the Fabia flywheel for a felicia one, which must be re-drilled, because the Fabia crank flange has fix bolts to the felicia's four.

You also need to do something with the water pump engine mount, because simply swapping for a felicia water pump means that the WP pulley doesn't line up with the crank/alternator pulleys. I fabricated a new mount that bolts to the top of the Fabia WP, but someone suggested that using the felicia WP without an impellor and adding an electric water pump would have probably been easier (if pricier).

Cheers

James

From: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/felicia-fun-forman/engine-conversion/94797/

I like the electric waterpump idea; I've seen claims that it's worth 2 or 3 bhp at high revs. If that's the case, there may be similar gains from an electric oil pump too?

I like the electric waterpump idea; I've seen claims that it's worth 2 or 3 bhp at high revs. If that's the case, there may be similar gains from an electric oil pump too?

An electric water pump could/would also be ECU controlled so that start-up to operational coolant temp would be quicker.

As for the oil pump; a bit difficult really. It would have to fit in the sump, it would have to be as reliable as the mechanical one and it would also have to produce something like 50+psi. I doubt this could be achieved with 12v without the pump being quite large (inc the motor) and also a rather significant hit on the alternator.

Ok, so what are the water pressure in the galleries, and the volume flow rates in both oil and water systems?

I'm having a thought here; it may or may not make sense, but oil pressure is more or less irrelevant. The oil pressure in the journal bearings is several thousand PSI, not 50 or so.

Or look at it another way; if you bung up the rising oil gallery just above the pressure sensor, the pressure (assuming the pump has sufficient power) will become nearly infinite, but the flow rate will be 0. See the distinction I'm drawing; a high flow rate is desirable, but pressure is only a crude indication of the flow rate.