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octavia 2 a/c compressor cure


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for all those with octavia a/c problems...

my a/c stopped working..no cooling.

vag com showed no fault codes.....usually what is recommended is a new compressor @ cost 600 euro plus installation

after much research..and help from an a/c friend of mine.;; we discovered that the common problem with these is the compressor regulator valve[n280]..

all that needs to be replaced is this part.

i have found these are hard to find because the part number is not always the same as vag parts.

but they are available at between 55-90 euros each

example:

Comercial EL TREBO S.C.A - Especialistas en alternadores, motores de arranque y compresores de A/A

probably could be found elsewhere

all that need to be done now is remove old one

it is only held in with circlip and can be removed with compressor in place

it is tricky and you need circlip pliers with angle[cheap] but with patience all should be ok

gas should probably have been removed first either by pressing cycle type valves..or vac equipment[see friendly a/c man]

oil in compressor will be ok you won't lose it

replace with new one...replace circlip

now all you need is a/c man to vacumm the system and regas

total cost..150 -200 euro depending on your a/c man

it works....believe me

the n280 valve apparently starts to stick after a few years...but still clicks with 12v..

vag com still thinks it's working..hence no fault code..[not vag com fault]

the compressor is also known as ZEXEL DCS-17E

see also

http://www.valeoservice.com/data/master/webfile/129301826448723BBADF84F.pdf?rnd=177

this might be a good sticky

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  • 1 month later...
for all those with octavia a/c problems...

my a/c stopped working..no cooling.

vag com showed no fault codes.....usually what is recommended is a new compressor @ cost 600 euro plus installation

after much research..and help from an a/c friend of mine.;; we discovered that the common problem with these is the compressor regulator valve[n280]..

all that needs to be replaced is this part.

i have found these are hard to find because the part number is not always the same as vag parts.

but they are available at between 55-90 euros each

example:

Comercial EL TREBO S.C.A - Especialistas en alternadores, motores de arranque y compresores de A/A

probably could be found elsewhere

all that need to be done now is remove old one

it is only held in with circlip and can be removed with compressor in place

it is tricky and you need circlip pliers with angle[cheap] but with patience all should be ok

gas should probably have been removed first either by pressing cycle type valves..or vac equipment[see friendly a/c man]

oil in compressor will be ok you won't lose it

replace with new one...replace circlip

now all you need is a/c man to vacumm the system and regas

total cost..150 -200 euro depending on your a/c man

it works....believe me

the n280 valve apparently starts to stick after a few years...but still clicks with 12v..

vag com still thinks it's working..hence no fault code..[not vag com fault]

the compressor is also known as ZEXEL DCS-17E

see also

http://www.valeoservice.com/data/master/webfile/129301826448723BBADF84F.pdf?rnd=177

this might be a good sticky

Hi there,I just found that my aircon stoped working.Is there any way how to diagnose that the valve is faulty? Have the aircon serviced/regased two days ago.And have been told that the aircon is weak and maybe because of faulty compressor? And quoted for 495 pounds.Rather then spend 500 quit I would try your solution first.But I would like to find where the problem is first.Thank you in advance for any advice and sorry for my english I'm from czech

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it's a common fault..on audi....vw etc

that's the part the stops working or may work sometimes.....

all other problems will usually come up on a scan [vag com or dealer]..this one does'nt

we rang the dutch supplier of that part and he indicated this by his comments....and they are supplying many of these to reconditioners.

reconditioners clean up the compressor and replace this part.

if you take old one out and replace new part quickly after letting gas out you could regas it yourself with diy kit without vaccum

this is my experience

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  • 4 weeks later...

Don't dump the refrigerant, get it recovered by a qualified air conditioning engineer.

R134a is a Fluorinated gas and has a high GWP value (1300 times more potent than CO2 as a greenhouse gas) .

It is also wise to be very cautious when playing with refrigerant, freeze burns can easily occur as R134a boils off at -26C. Any system that has lost its gas should be evacuated as per the manufacturers specs. Any air, moisture or dust that is allowed to enter can be detrimental to the system.

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  • 1 year later...

Guys, I know this thread is old,but I have another question.I saw on the net that these 1k0820803N Ac compressors have a lubrication issue,and as a result the metal filings from oil starved compressor are distributed throughout the system and it clogs the N280 AC control vale...could anyone confirm that its the Vale or the oil starvation?

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The valve is a common issue however it's not normally a faulty valve. They are not sealing correctly and external dirt and foreign material it's getting into the system and seizing the compressor.

New compressor, drier and a full flush must be carried out.

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Hey thanks for your reply...but I'm thinking does it make sense to buy replacment valve assuming it's an aftermarket valve,then flush out complete system?would that get rid of the dust/metal particles inside the compressor?car is only doing 47,000km and issue was present from 40,000km?

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The valve is a common issue however it's not normally a faulty valve. They are not sealing correctly and external dirt and foreign material it's getting into the system and seizing the compressor.

New compressor, drier and a full flush must be carried out.

Do you know anything about the sandem compressors? My Ac usually takes a few miles to get going next morning and then can be perfect all day or maybe sometimes not as strong as it should. It's been regassed.. would you say compressor?

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  • 1 month later...

The valve is a common issue however it's not normally a faulty valve. They are not sealing correctly and external dirt and foreign material it's getting into the system and seizing the compressor.

New compressor, drier and a full flush must be carried out.

Would the valve normally be supplied with a new compressor or is it an additional part to the compressor. Thanks

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Hi Guys,

I need advice regarding the weird behavior of my climatronic. The car is 2008 O2 with 47k miles on it.

The a/c system begins to cool two or three minutes after the engine startup, works for a minute, then stops for another couple of minutes and again and again. No idea what causes the stops… The final result is no cooling at all.

Yesterday the car was checked at a specialized a/c service shop – everything with the “hardware†seems to be OK – gas quantity, pressures, etc. The a/c man told me that sometimes, for an unknown reason, the control electronic decreases the power or switches off the compressor. No VAG COM faults exist.

Has someone had similar problem? Can it be that n280 valve?

I’ll appreciate any insight, help, or comment… :beer:

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  • 2 years later...

does anyone have  apicture of this valve's location? i have seen schematics but cant see nothing like this fromn the engine bay, just few screws and a connector

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Hi everyone

 

My 06 Octavia 2's ac compressor has conked out :sweat: . It is a Sanden unit. I bought this car from a previous owner (around 3 years ago) and at that time he mentioned that the a/c compressor had been replaced once by him (he gave me the invoice for it). So that makes it the second time the compressor has gone out. I am guessing the first one was Sanden too.

 

Any advice on which brand of replacement compressor to go for? From what I have found out through google, Sanden, Valeo, Delphi and Denso are the brands available (I may be wrong though) - I am looking for the most reliable brand.

 

Thanks!

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Any advice on which brand of replacement compressor to go for? From what I have found out through google, Sanden, Valeo, Delphi and Denso are the brands available (I may be wrong though) - I am looking for the most reliable brand.

I thought Sanden WAS the reliable brand?? Mine has had a Sanden since new and it has never given any trouble.
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I thought Sanden WAS the reliable brand?? Mine has had a Sanden since new and it has never given any trouble.

 

 

Most early Octavia 2's here in India have the problem of failing a/c compressors (Octy 2 was released during '06 here)

I live in the state of Kerala in India and it's 29°C on average here - it goes upto 34-35°C during summer.- maybe this is the cause of premature failure? Early octy 2's were imports from Czech Republic - I think the a/c system was not adapted to Indian weather... the facelift Octy 2's seems to be doing much better in this regard

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  • 1 month later...

hello andtks for the hint, my new (used) octavia 2 series edition 100 was having ac problems: It worked and not intermitently, after reading the post i dismanteled the plastic cap underneeth the car, since I did not have the pliers angled i could not get to take out the ring.... ughhh, i took off the belt, the fans and the ac compressor 3 screws, lean the compressor and with the pliers i took out the ring (after emptying the gas from the system)... in the gas circuit it was present a contrast liquid maybe for serching the eventual gas leaks by somme ac man...

the valve was not working, cause: bad design from factory, i'll explain: inside there is a mushroom type of needle that in my case was a litle bended but since the head was strait and not cone it was not closing... beside that in time the needle "eat" a litle bit of the bronze where it seat. since I have the ac gear: pump, gauges, R134 low pressure conector for only one day from ac friend i got into fine repair mode: i took the needle inside the valve out (it's helded by a conic spring) and put it into a drilling machine, with a piece o sand paper and 20 min of spinning/sanding i got the head of the needle in a cone form, then I put a piece of sand paper (rounded) into drilling machine and shine the interior of the bronze valve, now the only thing now that with the valve attached at 12 v it still not closing so I "eat" a litle bit of the other end of the needle so the cone go close when current present.

After vacum the ac and put inside aprox 480g of gas (It was all that i had) the ac work like new... conclussion  it will be nice to buy only a mushroom modifyed type  needle and sand a litle bit the inner bronze valve...

 

What makes me crazy is that I've changed my old 1999 octavia with 450 000 km that was all perfect with a newer one that has a bunch of problems... parking sensor, ac, got to change the timig belt... still love octy's...

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