abys

Here's what i got from Skoda when they were trying to find my issue...

So I had this fixed today. It turned out to be a broken wire deep in the headlight. I used a local VAG specialist garage rather than main dealer. They repaired the wire and 95 quid later, all is well again. The reckon Skoda would have tried to charge for a whole headlight renewal. Definitely never going to use the dealership again.

The same has since crossed my mind too. But when in there i was so flabbergasted by the cost i coyldnt think past it. I will call them Monday morning and suggest they look at the solenoid first. Many thanks for your help. Will report back.

Thanks for the reply. I had the car in the dealership this morning. The say its the ballast unit on the headlight and quoted me over £400 to fix. Does this sound right?

My Octavia had this issue twice in two weeks, both times within 10-15 mins of starting up, and both times at 65-70 mph. The second time the car started flashing and beeping to stop so pulled over. Suspecting the car may have no water, I called Greenflag. Whilst waiting, I googled it and came across this post and others. MY 2015 2.0 Diesel 73k miles Heritage Skoda Bristol Denied any knowledge of fault so I was charged the full £549 for pump and belt kit change. (It was due to be replaced in May as 5 years old so didn't complain too much) I am yet to take the car on a longer run but pretty sure it'll be fixed now.

Hi all, I am hoping someone can help me here. I have just started getting the 'Check Main Beam Light' warning come up when I use the main beam. The car indicates the bulb has failed. The main beam is not coming on on the drivers side. I have Xenon lights, and my research suggests its one bulb for both functions. (I know this because I took both bulbs out of their holders and tried the main beam function. The bulbs are ok. If I flash the main beams with the lights off, they both flash (at normal dipped beam brightness). If the lights are on, only the passenger side gets brighter (to main beam brightness). When activating main beam, I can hear a loud click on the side where the light is working, but not on the side where its not. Is there some kind of solenoid or relay inside the headlight unit that could have gone faulty? Is this easy to fix? Car is a 2015 Octavia estate L&K so has xenons, led daylights etc Many thanks indeed, Andy

Thanks for the insight. I will confer with the haynes manual and set to locating all the earthing points and checking them all over. I really hope I can identify one thats making a bad contact, and put this to bed once and for all... Thanks again. Andy

Can anyone advise on whats likely to be wrong? Whatever it is, it is very intermittent. Thanks in advance, Andy

I am no expert but I would be looking at the alternator. Have you tested the voltage across the battery while the car is running? It should be about 14-14.5v Any more or less than this would indicate the alternator isn't working as it should be.

Hi, I have owned this car for six months now. Its great apart from one thing... Every so often, it refuses to start. Its done it to me three times now, and almost didn't start a few more times. I have had the car fully serviced including fuel filter. Also had the DMF and clutch replaced as was original and starting to make noises. Car has done 124k miles. About three weeks ago, it refused to start. It had been parked up for about 20 hours. AA man came out and reported everything seemed fine, but could be the battery getting lazy as it was the original. (It was a pretty chilly night the night before). I have since put in a bosch S5 096 battery. I thought this would fix the problem once and for all. Three days ago, same again. Refused to start. Again, car was parked up for about 20 hours. It tried to turn over, and the rev counter was reading about 250 revs. I jump started it off a friends car, and after some persistent turning of the key, it grudgingly fired up. A little lumpy for the first few seconds, then right as rain. Since then, I have been measuring the battery voltages. When I parked up last night, the battery read 12.6v. This morning it read 12.5v. Started fine. Its currently reading 12.53v and its been parked up for 8 hours. Alternator is kicking out about 14.2-14.4v so know thats fine. When the AA man came out, he measured the battery at 12.4v, and that was after I had tried to start the car a few times so I dont think there is a drain on the battery anywhere. Its almost like that whatever is the problem, it needs the juice of more than one battery to get it started. Before jump starting, after a while, I get all sorts of other errors come up on the dash relating to all sorts of things. I know these relate to there not being enough juice in the battery to power all the systems while persistently trying to start. What could be wrong? Solenoid? glow plug? Sometimes I can leave the car a couple days and it starts fine, and at other times it struggles after 12 hours. I always leave the car a couple extra seconds after the glow plug light goes out before turning the key. Any help/advice is most appreciated. Andy

Thanks for that... I just didn't remember seeing it light up before... I'm glad its normal. I was dreading another trip to the garage...

My engine covered rattled like mad. So much so I could hear it in the cabin when idling and driving. Its made of two parts that are just clipped together. I had to partially remove the foam to get to some of the clips. Once separated the two parts, I applied some black squirty heavy duty glue stuff (forget what its called) to the two parts and now they are permenamtly joined as one. Superglued the foam back and voila... No more rattle.

Hi. Since getting car back from having DMF and clutch replaced, I've noticed the ESP switch is lit up on centre console near the gearstick. I don't remember seeing this light with the main lights on before... (Maybe I'm wrong) Can anyone clarify if this button is meant to light with the main lights? If I push it for a couple seconds, the anti skid symbol lights. Press again and it goes off. Cheers. Andy

update:... The replacement from techniclutch arrived today. Took to the garage and they confirmed the clutch was remanufactured. We decided that it be best not to fit these, so went to ECP and paid £430 for genuine Sachs. (I would have ordered from carparts4less but needed the parts immediately so I can get my car back today. Not to sort out the refunds from techniclutch....

£180 each time... They told me it took them 5 hours to do...