Jump to content

vRSAnt

FREEDOM
  • Posts

    2,696
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    northants

Car Info

  • Model
    Fabia mk 1 vRS BLT + Mk3 Octy vRS Petrol

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

vRSAnt's Achievements

Experienced

Experienced (11/17)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

464

Reputation

4

Community Answers

  1. I had identical problem but managed to find this thread and opened it up ( for 2nd time but this time using this had confidence to tackle the motor part / shroud itself). All sorted. Seems a bit of a rubbish design IMHO, why send water through a motor moving part 🤷‍♂️ Simply not very clever
  2. That's nice offer of you thanks. Will do
  3. I was looking into this and noting not long ago fitted canbus enabled towbar module ( for my O3) and also fitted cruise on my fabia vrs - so I'd imagine I'm well competent enough with the right guidance instructions at least..... This Citigo is the model with the mobile stand not navs (2017) and I'm a little unclear if a specific model required but I did see something suggesting all from 2012 up to the e model which this is not. I'm wondering if installation is common and follows this guide for the UP although I'm not certain about that. (part I have seen suggested = 1S0054630 with 1S0919475 control module) ? https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/fitting-original-retrofit-parking-sensors.11263/ Also If going to the effort it would be really cool to have the proper enabled beep lines show up on the ( still standard) radio also though, less keen on aftermarket. Anyone know if it works? I wonder if it matter if you have the Navigon/Garmin or none like this car I originally bought which takes mobile bracket/charging and apps instead. Thanks
  4. Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring useful other videos from others https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2truGm1lL_Y
  5. Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring
  6. Actually its easish to drop the exhaust back box but needs a bit of fairy....also the shield retainer with stupid plastic locks, just push them out the way and try and spin it down with pliers or driver. Just after all the hassle on the electric side was hoping it would be easier I can see the back slot clearly through one on one side now - all good.
  7. I have my car apart already for towbar and thinking I could route kit through for installation at the same time taking the low route for install! Anyone got an old camera for an old car ( 91mm handle) to hand as oem style wiring ideally ? or maybe someone sell on ebay with fast despatch ?
  8. Petrol so both sides fun on the rear holes I can get through underbody ok thanks that is fine, its just getting access to those rear ones....given up for today will be for the rest of the weekend to finish it off, nearly there, plastics off for the bumper cut. (There are SOME holes right at the back, but this towbar isn't long enough to reach them so yeah, succumbing to exhaust fun I guess) Not sure how the heat shield can be dropped itself, it has some rubbish metal grommet things but also some extra plastic steps preventing that moving Not sure the best leverage to get the back boxes off rubber hanger itself too probably comes to brute force I've given up with for now, presume I could lubricate the rubber hangar itself in fairy or something and try and push it off the mount/exhaust might work
  9. BCM was sorted. Going at this slowly like a 50 year old. Oh well, I'm nearly 50 perhaps is why. I have the plastic bumper off after lights ( came off carefully/easy) but for superficially the 2 bolts at front for the towbar fitting because unlike the instructions more delay - the bloody exhaust and heatshielding is in the way ?? May have to drop the silencers out the way so that's fun.
  10. Those 3 wires just snapped in the right place now I just have to do the BCM and the actual towbar fitting and cable routing but hopefully now thats the less critical part for me.
  11. All sorted, a 2013/2014 car confusion lol. In case anyone is ever wondering, the 2013 car ( up to around June) dont need the extra fuse harness but the 2014 cars do..... They appear to have a totally different fusebox layout....I find reading these "instructions" difficult at best, what happened to written instruction..... On my car ( for 13 socket lectrics) you need F28, 38 and 44 and pair the loom DIRECT. DO NOT follow OCTAVIA-MK3-REMOVABLE-TOWBAR-FITTING-IMG-v1.0.pdf as this is seemingly for 2014 fuseboxes I was kind of getting in limbo between the guides and following that and should have stopped and focussed on original guide from scratch. This explains the differences better, you don't pair them into the fusebox which is the mistake I made and now have to remove them lol. I couldn't plug in those other wires as they are really meant for D122 / J126 for later 2014 on cars. I think the 3 tails I plugged into the fusebox extra, probably fit easily into the 2013 fusebox. Many thanks to Dezmonde who refused any repartiation for his time, though I felt so glad to be helped I would have happily done so.
  12. Thank you so much. They are just so tight, they are not push fit or even with force down with a screwdriver Its the pre-cabled extra fuse holder (6r0937530A) Its the bit where you Clip snap tail wires into additional fuse box rear....they just are so tight they don't want to push in ! I got one about 3/4 down and just not fully seating. and the other only just in or half way so I got it back out again before trying to force any further.
  13. help urgently please, can't get westfalia pinout cables piggy back slotted into back of fusebox They are tight as hell to push in and won't just push in even, wondering if they actually have something needing removing from them or ideally a special tool to push them firmly in from rear. They do seem to be caged in a surround but presuming this ( with springs) is part of the fitting. Also I don't have existing fuses at F28 and F38, should there be fuses in front of the fusebox as well as in the accessory fusebox ? It only came with 3 fuses already in the accessory one. I will donate ÂŁ10 in beer funds to anyone who can give me successful advice please, otherwise I'm seeking an auto electrician to complete it annoyingly ! Still got the BCM to do yet also ! This sucks, it went reasonably well to this point, mousing the cables and plastics removed carefully etc.
  14. Just received some nice wiring through the post and looking to do this job soon. Hi I'm looking to do this towbar wiring having acquired the plug in kit, will need VCDScoding after I do the wiring, wonder if anyone can help with the VCDS (and maybe a little wiring help / second opinion )? Got my head around most of it, some minor questions. I think I can work out the answers: ( Electric extension kit I think is mentioned as 300 029 300 113, this is presumably where a super bulky white connector block with 2 wires coloured YW and BR/WH thick wires are (some 12" before the termination for the main control unit). Couldn't work out what that is for so must be superfluous/ specific to that it doesn't seem to be mentioned elsewhere) Its this Westfalia kit for non tow prepped, which is because my car is an earlier 2014 ( regd about April 2014 apparently) and not tow reading, I saw the wiring for at least half price for Westfalia Kit. Got a tow trust bar for a fair price not so keen to fit the PCT ZR2500 relay it came with, which would have needed wiring to the car side anyway missing. A bit funny about cutting the wires so I managed to get the westfalia dedicated wiring. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/westfalia_fitting/305406300113.pdf Happy to make some agreement of cash someones way of course too !
  15. Thanks all. I have PCT2500 relay already so its an option ? Will get the balance of opinions - have reached out to Sasha too. I do hope to buy a trailer on the sooner than later, its for a lightweight race car build to have it checked out by some pros and completion works - in case anyone interested see the pic ! Cost me originally 2 grand, and a lot of messing about with it since 2020 at home..... when towed the car is light should only be 400kg the car itself and I'd be delicately driving it about...... I guess even if I did do the devils scotchlocks then the likelihood of heavens falling I suppose is minimal for just going and picking up a trailer as a one off ? As mentioned I did just want to get the westfalia detachable and would have had them just coded tbh, but as they were literally unavailable from all sources this was the next best towbar for now and I'm open.
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.