vRSAnt

Solved, just used a square drive without alteration borrowed from a piston ring replacement tool.
 
It was a lot easier after that, 1/4 convertor is a poor solution despite mention on the VW forums. Also fully removed the nut and bolt, I think this despite very loose was adding some resistance.
 
As every dirty girl knows, its about about splitting it wide open

Well, I went to Unit 18 and had my leaking rad looked at
Took that rad (I'd picked it up just for emergency TBH in case it really starting ****ing out....would have been quite happy to pay again just for an OEM rad)
 
Quite oddly.....the rad firstly seemed to have lost loads on the way down there (30 miles), although I put this down to my stupidity of checking before leaving (having to fill the coolant right up due to loss) but did it the night before and didn't have the savvy to check just before leaving in the morning too!
 
So about 5 miles out with my wife behind me, my light came on again and I had to put in a litre or two of rainwater to max out the coolant.....what I didn't expect though is I didn't have to put in another drop after that. Not only that but it must have stopped leaking too! I checked when I got to the wharf and it was bang on normal level !
lol
 
I paid (just) the 3 hrs labour for fitting.....seems like that rad is a good one in terms of fitting size, if anyone is still interested in that deal ?
Can't warrant for quality yet......that's a bit of a risk isn't it.....but given my last one was leaking like a sieve and 7yrs old I'd say job is a good un...I've heard mixed results about the Eis, some say its a **** to fit, but seem to be a few that have fitted them on here and I don't think have too much wrong to say about them
 
In fact someone was selling on here for £30 odd and I nearly bought it until I realised it wasn't an OEM one lol

Solved - by myself
 
Kettering Headlands
I'm sorry to say were no help whatsoever - just helped flush £50 for "investigation" to confirm I've got lowered springs and lower profile tyres. Coo, funny that.
Despite pushing home about my idea that I'd cut my stops down a bit but that the stops were the wrong way around on that side, and that switching it around should solve it. They didn't listen.
 
Well guess what MY idea worked. You should all read this as a solid lesson that sometimes your guy feeling that YOU are right and everyone else is WRONG is important.
 
Was a bit of a pain though, I was a bit worried because I'd jacked on one side that the shock bolt went way out of position and was concerned I'd line it up again. Second thing to worry about was the lot crashing down and amputating my hand of course. Didn't happen though lol.
Easy to rotate the bump stop that was the wrong way around.
I suspect because the hard bit was the wrong way around it basically allowed the stop to be pushed too deep so not doing its job and then the shock lower could clatter on the top part of the top mount housing.
 
I was going into Unit18 later this week - but no need now (for further diagnostic work but probably was going to just have the standard susp refitted as I felt resigned that this was the only direction). Really surprised no one has come across this before and that despite discussing it with so many people not one person could see the logic of my idea of the problem.
 
So I'm kind of a happy bunny again, despite fuming that my local garage are so bloody unmotivated with helping.
Oh well only £50 down the drain could have been worse.

This has now been reflected in the for sale area instead, where there is more interest