vRSAnt

Thank you ! Sorry, totally my mistake I was confusing by looking at 2 different types of left over/ unused oils as I also have to do a job on the MFG VVC and that has some leftover 10w40 It is indeed the 5w40 502 stuff and perfectly ok for fixed services ! So I can use on either. Old age conundrum. Stupid thing is I got 2x these earlier ( and used some clearly, probably on her citigo which is why I have 1L+ left). The only question really I guess which car is best to use on - should I use the Quantum on my vRS and the cheapest whatever I can get for her citigo. e.g. I can get PETRONAS Syntium 3000 E 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil 5 Litres for £23, I'm guessing this will be inferior to the Quantum but is still a pretty decent oil

I have 5L + some more of unused Quantum Platinum, think it is the 10w40 stuff I believe....for regular service, for my vrs is only 4k miles approx I'm pending service my wifes citigo 1.0 and this my petrol 2014 vRS Would you use the Quantum in my car or hers...if not quantum i'd be getting petronas or fuchs or something otherwise in 5w40 for my vRS

I had identical problem but managed to find this thread and opened it up ( for 2nd time but this time using this had confidence to tackle the motor part / shroud itself). All sorted. Seems a bit of a rubbish design IMHO, why send water through a motor moving part 🤷‍♂️ Simply not very clever

That's nice offer of you thanks. Will do

I was looking into this and noting not long ago fitted canbus enabled towbar module ( for my O3) and also fitted cruise on my fabia vrs - so I'd imagine I'm well competent enough with the right guidance instructions at least..... This Citigo is the model with the mobile stand not navs (2017) and I'm a little unclear if a specific model required but I did see something suggesting all from 2012 up to the e model which this is not. I'm wondering if installation is common and follows this guide for the UP although I'm not certain about that. (part I have seen suggested = 1S0054630 with 1S0919475 control module) ? https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/fitting-original-retrofit-parking-sensors.11263/ Also If going to the effort it would be really cool to have the proper enabled beep lines show up on the ( still standard) radio also though, less keen on aftermarket. Anyone know if it works? I wonder if it matter if you have the Navigon/Garmin or none like this car I originally bought which takes mobile bracket/charging and apps instead. Thanks

Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring useful other videos from others https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2truGm1lL_Y

Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring

Actually its easish to drop the exhaust back box but needs a bit of fairy....also the shield retainer with stupid plastic locks, just push them out the way and try and spin it down with pliers or driver. Just after all the hassle on the electric side was hoping it would be easier I can see the back slot clearly through one on one side now - all good.

I have my car apart already for towbar and thinking I could route kit through for installation at the same time taking the low route for install! Anyone got an old camera for an old car ( 91mm handle) to hand as oem style wiring ideally ? or maybe someone sell on ebay with fast despatch ?

Petrol so both sides fun on the rear holes I can get through underbody ok thanks that is fine, its just getting access to those rear ones....given up for today will be for the rest of the weekend to finish it off, nearly there, plastics off for the bumper cut. (There are SOME holes right at the back, but this towbar isn't long enough to reach them so yeah, succumbing to exhaust fun I guess) Not sure how the heat shield can be dropped itself, it has some rubbish metal grommet things but also some extra plastic steps preventing that moving Not sure the best leverage to get the back boxes off rubber hanger itself too probably comes to brute force I've given up with for now, presume I could lubricate the rubber hangar itself in fairy or something and try and push it off the mount/exhaust might work

BCM was sorted. Going at this slowly like a 50 year old. Oh well, I'm nearly 50 perhaps is why. I have the plastic bumper off after lights ( came off carefully/easy) but for superficially the 2 bolts at front for the towbar fitting because unlike the instructions more delay - the bloody exhaust and heatshielding is in the way ?? May have to drop the silencers out the way so that's fun.

Those 3 wires just snapped in the right place now I just have to do the BCM and the actual towbar fitting and cable routing but hopefully now thats the less critical part for me.

All sorted, a 2013/2014 car confusion lol. In case anyone is ever wondering, the 2013 car ( up to around June) dont need the extra fuse harness but the 2014 cars do..... They appear to have a totally different fusebox layout....I find reading these "instructions" difficult at best, what happened to written instruction..... On my car ( for 13 socket lectrics) you need F28, 38 and 44 and pair the loom DIRECT. DO NOT follow OCTAVIA-MK3-REMOVABLE-TOWBAR-FITTING-IMG-v1.0.pdf as this is seemingly for 2014 fuseboxes I was kind of getting in limbo between the guides and following that and should have stopped and focussed on original guide from scratch. This explains the differences better, you don't pair them into the fusebox which is the mistake I made and now have to remove them lol. I couldn't plug in those other wires as they are really meant for D122 / J126 for later 2014 on cars. I think the 3 tails I plugged into the fusebox extra, probably fit easily into the 2013 fusebox. Many thanks to Dezmonde who refused any repartiation for his time, though I felt so glad to be helped I would have happily done so.

Thank you so much. They are just so tight, they are not push fit or even with force down with a screwdriver Its the pre-cabled extra fuse holder (6r0937530A) Its the bit where you Clip snap tail wires into additional fuse box rear....they just are so tight they don't want to push in ! I got one about 3/4 down and just not fully seating. and the other only just in or half way so I got it back out again before trying to force any further.

help urgently please, can't get westfalia pinout cables piggy back slotted into back of fusebox They are tight as hell to push in and won't just push in even, wondering if they actually have something needing removing from them or ideally a special tool to push them firmly in from rear. They do seem to be caged in a surround but presuming this ( with springs) is part of the fitting. Also I don't have existing fuses at F28 and F38, should there be fuses in front of the fusebox as well as in the accessory fusebox ? It only came with 3 fuses already in the accessory one. I will donate £10 in beer funds to anyone who can give me successful advice please, otherwise I'm seeking an auto electrician to complete it annoyingly ! Still got the BCM to do yet also ! This sucks, it went reasonably well to this point, mousing the cables and plastics removed carefully etc.

Just received some nice wiring through the post and looking to do this job soon. Hi I'm looking to do this towbar wiring having acquired the plug in kit, will need VCDScoding after I do the wiring, wonder if anyone can help with the VCDS (and maybe a little wiring help / second opinion )? Got my head around most of it, some minor questions. I think I can work out the answers: ( Electric extension kit I think is mentioned as 300 029 300 113, this is presumably where a super bulky white connector block with 2 wires coloured YW and BR/WH thick wires are (some 12" before the termination for the main control unit). Couldn't work out what that is for so must be superfluous/ specific to that it doesn't seem to be mentioned elsewhere) Its this Westfalia kit for non tow prepped, which is because my car is an earlier 2014 ( regd about April 2014 apparently) and not tow reading, I saw the wiring for at least half price for Westfalia Kit. Got a tow trust bar for a fair price not so keen to fit the PCT ZR2500 relay it came with, which would have needed wiring to the car side anyway missing. A bit funny about cutting the wires so I managed to get the westfalia dedicated wiring. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/westfalia_fitting/305406300113.pdf Happy to make some agreement of cash someones way of course too !

Thanks all. I have PCT2500 relay already so its an option ? Will get the balance of opinions - have reached out to Sasha too. I do hope to buy a trailer on the sooner than later, its for a lightweight race car build to have it checked out by some pros and completion works - in case anyone interested see the pic ! Cost me originally 2 grand, and a lot of messing about with it since 2020 at home..... when towed the car is light should only be 400kg the car itself and I'd be delicately driving it about...... I guess even if I did do the devils scotchlocks then the likelihood of heavens falling I suppose is minimal for just going and picking up a trailer as a one off ? As mentioned I did just want to get the westfalia detachable and would have had them just coded tbh, but as they were literally unavailable from all sources this was the next best towbar for now and I'm open.

TBH also may make sense to look at rear view camera AND hooking up heated seats ( fitted ) at the same time but that would be ramping up my work ? I know in past have been resident experts like Techie but not sure if anyone would be prepared to do the work for me which I would consider..... much rather someone known than some non Skoda "specialist" who will chuck on another basic relay like I've already got. I know I can get dedicated kit wiring for only £100+ ish Petrol vrs... I'd only be towing 400kg car on some lightweight smart style trailer ..... not a caravan

I have a fixed flange (tow-trust) towbar plus a PCT automotive relay that is nearly new from ebay. I was going to have a brand new westfalia and dedicated but they were out of stock, may revisit later if I can get hold of the detachable I want but if the lectrics are done correctly then these can remain as the bar is just a bar? I can remove the tow bit temporarily as it has two bolts.... My thoughts were to ditch the relay I got with it ( its about a £30 model) and have a dedicated fitted - but contacted one place locally don't seem keen to reply to me to confirm. I *could* attempt the electrics, I have even done cruise control back when I had a Fabia ( and it worked from new until I sold the car a few ago so I can't be that bad right?) But I'm cold feet about the ripping into my electrics on my 2014 and prefer the dedicated but I'm a little discouraged by the scale of this work (despite having done the cruise on fabia when it was still in year 1 ! That seemed like madness but got there in the end in fairness would have rather paid to just have it done and avoid the stress). By the way I already checked out I'm a non towbar prep car sadly. I won't be using the towbar that much tbh.....but this is like my main car, don't want ****ty electrics and a job done right is something you won't worry again about. Anyone do electrics here ? If I was getting the kit to attempt looks like could use, https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-octavia-hatch-06-2014-onwards-7-pin-pf-jones-dedicated-wiring-kit.html

Anyone know if any of the things they sell work with 2014 sized to not require chopping in the boot area ? Other than the number plate versions....tho they seem to have good feedback and have been thinking of getting round to for a while but hate ****ing around with electrics ( I wired my Fabia mk1 in keeping with warranty tho so shouldn't be impossible for me, I just don't enjoy it(. This is a roundtuit for me I just havent bothered with but seeing as I also need Towbar fitting and don't seem to have towbar prep either...

I have electric door mirrors on mine too obviously but it doesnt come from there on the window motor at all.....ok so its totally different then. I was just interested, so probably no chance you could retro the motor on these newer ones then ( I just wondered as they actually have tons of those about as well as not only being cheaper). There is literally not even one for sale in UK on ebay at the moment.

Thanks Munfred for kindly letting me test the 6Y2959802 motor so I know where i stand I am also curious about the 3 connector plugs motor, as these are way more common, dont know if anyone tried it but the 6Y2 part has only 2, one bigger connector and one smaller one ? Perhaps which feeds the passenger side. I think most earlier cars/ other variants may have 3 connectors with the 6Q2 part, I inadvertantly went to visit another earlier car with this and had the 3 plugs motor, bigger one went in but the smaller seemed to be obstructed by part of the smaller connecors block pattern, but I quickly and briefly noted this wasnt the pins itself which looked identical ? The 3rd connector block looks like it has same pattern as the other smaller one but for 2 more blocks of connections if that makes sense), I would hazard a guess this is extra connections for rear windows but they deemed this unnecessary on later vrs motors as they don't have rear electrics anyway and revised accordingly ? My inquisitive side would love to find this out They are way more common part too

That's the one!

Before I even have done this one thing changed is the passenger side only has come to life.....on passenger switch which I hadn't got to work before when everything failed..... For me, sadly no improvement on drivers side 😞 I did dismantle the old relay off the board and soldering the new one to the best of my ability, its on. Switches on drivers side doing nothing. Only thing Im not sure about is I did dismantle the switch but it feels positive, no issues in its "feel" so unless I put it back together wrong somehow, or was already faulty but I've already switched out the switches with other cars as breakers for this. Could really do with a "good" car with the 6Y2 motor in it to tell what I have that is known good in my car but I don't know if anyone can help with that ( other than the occasion car breaker, but last one who did that, who had the right motor, but it didnt even work on their car). Be nice to have the fully working comparison.......

Thanks I dont think the capacitor has leaked so no obvious sign of failure, assuming the spot is some deliberate marking. Ended up buying a ACT512 relay from ebay for half the price of Farnell.....seems to be same panasonic one....should receive in a few days. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANASONIC-EW-ACT512-RELAY-12VDC-35A-2X-SPDT/171642237376?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649