Skodaoldy

With the benefit of the set of pictures I decided to take the door card off and I'm pleased to say it was as I suspected. There was a short wire with a plug on the end which I was able to feed through the hole by the door handle and then plug into the mirror switch before clipping it back into place. Mission accomplished, mirrors adjusting properly. Thanks a lot for the help.

That looks to be the door lock control end of the cable in picture 2 with the pink/yellow plug on the end. In picture 1 it is shown plugged in to the door lock. The other end seems to go up in the direction of the wing mirror itself, but not to a switch, as this is the passenger door and does not house the mirror control switch which is in the driver's door and must be connected by another different cable in the line, with the plug on to push into the switch socket. That extra switch feed cable in the circuit in the driver's door is the one I need to trace.

Thanks for that, it looks promising as I assume the orange and the black leads are going up to the wing mirror. However it does appear to be the passenger door which does not incorporate the switch, which controls both mirrors and is alongside the interior door handle in the drivers door. I assume their must be another cable to that switch with a plug on the end as the switch itself has a socket on the back of it. A similar photo of the driver's door showing the switch cable with the plug on would be ideal if possible.

I have absolutely no confidence in the garage's ability to do the job successfully or make a watertight door seal. I would appreciate information on the route of the switch wiring if possible.

I have recently had a new drivers door lock fitted by a garage who I am not very happy with. I've found that the elctric mirrors now don't work and when I flipped the control switch out from by the door handle I found that the connecting cable has not been plugged in and is nowhere to be seen. I don't want the garage to mess with the car again and I am conversant with removing a door card. I can feel the back of the door card by feeling through the hole where the cable should come from. If I remove the door card am I likely to have access to the cable and be able to thread it back through the hole in order to plug it to the switch on reassembly, or routed behind the carrier plate so that I won't be able to reach it to rethread. I ask because I don't feel confident in removing the carrier plate and I will only remove the door card if I know I will be able to access and relocate the switch cable and advice on this could save me taking the card off to no avail.

I've popped the switch out and there's nothing there, no wiring at all. It's recently had a new door lock fitted so assume wiring wasn't fed back and connected. I can feel the back of the door card through the bottom of the hole where the switch fits. Is the feed wire likely to be just loose behind the door card and easily threaded up through the hole and plugged into the switch once the door card is off or does it wind out of reach behind the carrier plate?

In order to trace why my mirrors weren't operating I unclipped the electric mirror switch from the next to the inner door handle and found no cable attached to the switch or visible. I assume it's dropped down into the door cavity. If I feel through the bottom of the hole where the switch fits I can feel the back of the door card. If I remove the door card is the loose cable likely to lie in there and be easily threaded up through the hole and attached to the switch, or does it thread behind the carrier plate and make it necessary to remove that as well?

The electric heated wing mirrors on my Fabia Mk1 Comfort are not working at all. I have just had a new drivers door lock fitted at an independant garage and have had to return twice for related problems since. The windows and remote central locking are working now and I don't really wan't to have to go back again, as every time it goes back they manage to create another problem and it's always made out not to be their fault and another charge is made. Could it be a problem with the small operating switch by the door handle and if so is that easy to remove and check and possibly replace myself? Although the windows are working properly I have gone through the windows up and down with extended holding switch procedure to reset the convenience module, but it's made no difference.

I've checked them out and am more than happy with what I've learned. I can have a courtesy car and I feel confident of getting a good job done, which is the main aim. Thanks guys, most helpful.

As I'm not able to carry out work myself, and knowing the temperamental nature of Fabias, particularly electrics, can anyone recommend a good Independent Skoda specialist in Bournemouth/Christchurch area please?

Another thing I've just thought of. Are there any different functions operated when using the key manually as opposed to using the elctronic fob, and if so are there any visible differences to look for?

I follow your instruction and I've found a supplier of a second hand key set on the ebay site you advised, although mine is a different key to yours I can undo it. I haven't ordered one yet. However I've just found another used original fob key, which, although equally worn opens and closes all the doors properly electronically. In the meantime, not wanting to risk getting locked out any longer, I've booked the car in for a new door lock to be fitted at a local garage next Wednesday. I've not ordered a new fob key as the garage owner said I could just use the my original key mechanically rather than buying a new fob. If I go ahead and have the new lock fitted will it mean that this working original fob that I've now found will not open and close it electronically, or could I programme it to the new lock in a similar way to that you've described? The reason I ordered a new lock is that during the time that I've been opening and closing manually, the locks have not always opened consistently although they are doing so at the moment. Sometimes they all opened with one turn, but at other times I needed to operate key twice to get passenger doors open. In addition, sometimes not all the doors opened, and on a couple of occasions I had to operate the key repeatedly to get the driver's door to open. It seems worse when weather is coldest and I thought so many gremlins happening I should get a new lock. Now although I've just found this working fob, from what I've described do you think it still advisable to go ahead with the new lock fitting?

There are obviously more seperate functions to the central locking/door locking process than I realised. Bear with me and I'll go through what's happened from the start. I've owned this car for the last 10 years during which time I've done 90k miles and total mileage now showing is 123K. I bought it from the first owner and it came with all the original documentation including a narrow, clipped, folding plastic tab which, when unclipped and folded open contains 3 seperate key detail numbers on three small labels, 2 are white and the other is black. I know these relate to the key so I assume I have all the key information there is for the car. The tab, when clipped closed is 10cm x 2cm. It also had the original remote fob key and the unused spare key which is just a manual one with no electronic fob. I've only used the elcctronic fob key, with one battery change about 4 years ago, until a year ago when it failed to function. I put in a new battery and it worked for a few days but then failed again. I put in another new battery but it still didn't work and the tiny red light on the key fob didn't come on when fob pressed, so I assumed internal key electronics worn out and I changed to using the key manually. That worked fine until recently and all doors locked and unlocked with one turn of the key. Then about 3 weeks ago the first turn of the key only opened the drivers door and I had to turn it a second time to open the other 3. ( Tailgate was disconnected after problems 3 years ago and I rely on the manual release by the drivers seat, but that's no problem). Then I had a spate of operations when the driver's door opened on the first key turn, but not all the others on the 2nd turn, so I to repeat until they did. I then had occasions when none of the doors opened on the first key turn and I had to keep repeating the key operation until eventually they did open, hence the fear of being locked out began. I bought some silcone lubricant and sprayed liberally into the key hole and now I am back to all the doors generally operating on 1 turn of the key although not all the time as I still have occasions when I have to turn more than once to get all the doors to open. I get all the series of cluncks and clicks but the buttons don't come up. I phoned an auto locksmith who quoted me £160 for a new Skoda key and programming and he also said that I couldn't expect to use the key manually for long as the 'spade' end of the manual mechanism which activates the electronics was prone to breaking up on VAG vehicles. He also said my round head key type may not be available now and was not guaranteed to work when programmed even if they are. I've assumed from all this that the drivers main door lock could fail completely at any time and obviously needs to be replaced, hence quote of £350/400. That would still leave the other 3 door locks having had the same amount of operation and prone to failure. New tyres are required in about 2 months time and a cam belt/water pump in June, together with service and M.O.T. I was hoping that if I could look to get another 3/4 years out of the car if I commited to this sort of expenditure as the engine is in such good condition and there is no sign of clutch wear or Turbo problem as it has always been carefully driven and regularly serviced with castrol Turbo-edge oil and BP ultimate diesel with Miller's additive. Sorry it's so long winded but it hopefully explains the situation fully.

Sorry to be such a dimwit on these things, but that's why I find the site so valuable. If I decide to spend substantially, (min £1,200 overall) on this car within the next 5months with the hope of getting another 2 to 4 years out of it, I know I am going to need a new drivers door lock. Would a new door lock mean another new key, or if I could get a key and get it programmed as instructed for the existing dicey lock, could it be re-programmed again to work the new lock or would I require a completely new key again? I do appreciate and agree with your comments on the !.9Tdi, and although I don't use it's performance normally, I sort of take it for granted that if I need to get passed something it's going to go, and I'm not having to wonder 'will it or won't it'.

My greatest fear is that if, having spent £300 to £400 on a new drivers door lock fitting and knowing the vulnerability of all these locks, in no time at all I subsequently have the same problem with the other doors as it is a 2002 car with 125K miles. I could find myself having to fork out up to another £900 to £1,200 to repair the rest. The tailgate lock is already disconnected and operated by the manual lever by the drivers seat. Can the drivers door operate independantly with a new lock, so that if any or all of the other doors failed to open I could always get into the car and either open them from the inside handle or leave them locked. I could live with that, as I rarely have a passenger and could still use the manual tailgate. We also have a family car that I'm covered on insurance for if I do need to carry passengers. If it were not for these central locking issues I would be looking to replace it with a MK 2, but for anyone who can't do these repairs themselves, the cost, plus the risk of finding yourself locked out of your car, or windows having a mind of their own puts me off completely. I would greatly miss the reliability and the high MPG of the 1.9Tdi and it seems the only way to get economy from a petrol now is something with an Ecoboost power unit. Does anyone have an opinion on these in general, particularly on the ruggedness of the power units considering the punch they are pushing out of them, some with only 3 cylinders. Thanks guys