langtone

No bypass relay was required, just standard connections to existing light loom Did add in a directional buzzer - fixed neatly under the parcel shelf

Finally got around to doing this Security access (Login) required was 12233 Adaption channel 06 was for tickover, appears only values 840, 861, 882 are actually taken, if you put in 850 you get 840. 840 was stable at idle but engine pulsed for a couple of seconds when dropping to idle from higher revs. Settled on 861, appears stable, quieter and should use less fuel when stuck in traffic :sun:

The superb runs with an offset of 37mm (this is centre of tyres compared to mounting on hub) So long as the Audi are close to this you should be OK. The Tyres will need to be the same size (or one of the alternatives - look in your fuel cap it lists the "standard" tyres approved for the car). Beware if they are different you risk upsetting the balance of the car, tyres rubbing arch liners (if further into the car), knacking you wheel arches with stones flicking off your tyres ( if tyres stick out too far )

Looking to fit a towbar Appears to be confusion regarding electrics. One supplier states "Bypass Relay: Not Required" I have a 2008 Mk1 Superb. It has light checking (dash tells you if a bulb is faulty). I am assuming I at least need a bypass relay to protect the light circuit and stop unnecessary false "bulb failure" messages Maybe Skoda already thought of this and I can connect direct to the existing wiring without any interface I assume the "vehicle specific" unit is a CAN module so you get the addition light on the dash showing trailer light operation and disabling of the reverse sensors when towing ? Anybody have experience ? Please advise. Thanks in advance for your helpful replies

No way to get to this when tank in place, the pipe is in a recess. The areas surrounding the pipe sit tight up against the bottom of the car so wouldn't make an accessible point for any fuel thief. Looks like the "pesky critter" is the most likely cause !!!!!!

Mmm .. Not so improbable...Danny I think you may be correct and my assumption of something rubbing through due to vibration may have been too hasty a conclusion.... Mouse droppings and chewed foam near bulkhead under bonnet One of the negatives of living out in the countryside!!!

Nice day so decided to remove my tank and have a look.... Wondered what could cause this hole to wear through... This nasty lump of underseal was directly above the hole Cut away excess underseal Epoxy resin used to fix the hole - sealed with tape first Let's hope it's OK, I got a 10p off per litre voucher for Morrisons so would be nice to brim the tank !!!

I guess 1/4 litre at the filling station and I'd say about 100ml when parked up. Just rechecked and no further loss whilst it it stationary

Just brimmed tank ( as I always do ), I know not a good idea to go past the first click but never caused an issue As replacing cap noticed puddle of diesel coming from under car. Assumed I'd overdone it and come out of expansion hose Drove 20 miles. Parked up. Puddle of diesel under car!!! Tracked it to coming from top of main tank ( dry around filler hose ), wet on top of tank and some lying diesel around fuel pump. Pipe that runs over top of fuel pump I assume is the reason but cannot feel / see the issue. Anyone else had an issue with the breather hose or the seal on the fuel pump.... or any other possible problem Any simple / cheap / goog solutions other than replacing the whole tank??? Car is 2008 Superb Mk1 1.9TDI 115

Need some help ! I have a 2008 '08' Mk1 1.9Tdi 115. I am often in standing traffic and hate to see the mpg ticking down whilst stationary On my 54 plate I dropped the idle speed to 850rpm using VAG-COM, saves a few pennies But on my 08 plate VCDS won't let me access Adaption group 2 without entering a 5 digit 'security access code' I am sure I read in the past that for general 'fiddlng' a generic 5 digit code works. (For key coding etc you need a 7 digit PIN) Is this correct ? What is the code I need ? Thanks in advance for your help Langtone

It's that time of year when councils reckon the best way to get the roads ready for winter is pour tar on the roads then top with 3 times as much grit than the road needs and let the cars spit the excess off into the verges or if I happen to be going in the opposite direction straight at my bonnet or wing !!! So what to do ??? Buy a touch up paint from Skoda and try (unsuccessfully) to just dab in the chip ? Buy a £20 magic crayon from a shopping TV channel and pay £2 for a phone call and £8 post and packing ? Buy one of the 'professional stone chip repair' kits from ebay ? Wait until the spring and get one of the many 'dentmaster' 'chipmaster' companies to charge me £80 to sort all the chips into what I would hope would be a back to showroom finish ? Anyone used any of the above ? Photos would be nice Eliott

Could be. I suspect if it gets no signal from the crank, it thinks it is not turning so doesn't run the injectors and ignition. My wife has the identical car so I can test this first by swapping between the two. If the problem moves to my wife's car I then don't mind spending out on the sensor. Just to add to the story. I have also now checked that the chain has not jumped a cog on the exhaust cam. Took the two plugs out from the side of the engine. Both the exhaust and inlet cams are the exact same angle. Someone said this is a common issue that causes similar symptoms. Luckily this is not my case.

It had been suggested that the problem could be the brake switch telling the engine management that the pedal was pressed ( when it was not ) The engine management will not allow brakes at same time as accelerator and cuts fuel completely should this situation occur. This could also happen without resulting in any fault codes. I have today changed the brake switch for the new type 1K2 945 511 RDW. So much easier to fit than the old type. But problem remains :( Still no fault codes on Engine or Instruments using VAG-COM Please, anyone, any ideas ?

Help. 1.2AZQ. Once every 50miles or so engine power cuts out. Continuing to press the accelerator does nothing ( mpg reads ---, or l/100km read 0.0 ) Lift pedal and repress and all is fine again for another few yards or another 50 or so miles. Changed sparks, swapped ignition coils, changed air filter, changed fuel filter. Diagnostics (VAG-COM) comes back with no fault codes. EPC light does NOT come on. Also does same if cruise control is on. Any ideas as I do not want to carry on down the replace the fuel pump, replace the injectors, replace the TDC sensor route which costs loads and maybe solves nothing. Thanks in advance for any advice

VAGCOM USED. Engine selected - NO FAULTS. Instruments selected - NO FAULTS.