PropWarp

Sounds mad and silly but I had squeeks when the front wishbones.................. The whole front end suspension components were changed.... Turned out that in certain places some bushes against metal require specific lube.... Could be that this has not been done, when parts do get wet the parts are moving fluid and hence no squeek....... Long shot but thats from my experience. Ignore, i didnt turn too page 2 ha

I shall ......... Thread worthwhile I think................ Beer needed

Well it looks a very similar size to the the cigarette lighter so I may cannibalize that or I may do a little poking around the cabin to see where is best.

I think I have cracked it............ Its a big maybe... The above link I sent is for the Female Aux in... I get the below box for then by the looks of it all I have to do is swap the male 3.5 to the Female 3.5 (link above).... take a look and you will see what I am babling on about... It could work... THE KIT http://www.incarconnections.co.uk/skoda-aux-input-adapters-aux-cable/skoda-fabia-octavia-aux-adapter-ctvskx001-2000-2005-ipod.html THE PLUG http://www.incarconnections.co.uk/in-car-aux-adapter-aux-cable-accessories/2-RCA-phono-to-3-5mm-jack-plug-car-aux-input-CT29AX07.html

What about this, Seems like it could do the job assuming the back of the radio allows me to grrrrrrrr http://www.incarconnections.co.uk/in-car-aux-adapter-aux-cable-accessories/2-RCA-phono-to-3-5mm-jack-plug-car-aux-input-CT29AX07.html

Good question.................. There is bound to be some of cable you can get that can plug into the stuff that is already on eBay & Amazon.. I just want a clean looking Aux-input instead of a dangly ugly wire.

How do you wire it into a Mk1?? I have a CD autochanger in the boot and I would imagine that this would be phased out if the Aux input is installed. Thanks PW

Bump

As easy as that..... Wow.............................

Afternoon Gents, Right I know there are kits out there for owners to plug in music devices such as iPhones etc etc. The kits have a 3.5 jack which you plug into the phone but I am looking for something slightly different but the same thing (bare with me)............ I want to plug into an Aux input and not have a jack wobbling around the glovebox or anywhere else in the car. In short I want one of them. I dont mind drilling a small hole so it looks OEMish Thanks.... (im sure you would like this too, I know it) ha

Could always go for what I used to have. TVR Cerbera Power is not the same after driving a TVR

Glad to be of service I think the cars thrown out by the VAGroup are really good if only they would change belt to bloody chain..... HEAR US VAG PLEASE WE PRAY EACH DAY FOR IT

Ermmm again twice as many turbos twice as likely to fail, that is my logic anyway, I could be wrong. To be honest the 335d is an awesome feat of engineering and I have not heard anything wrong about them, 1 or 2 things have popped up over time but from what I remember they were pushing 150+ thousand miles. Only time they do ruin your day is when they get chipped or tuned. Personally I really do not see why you would chip or tune a 3.0 diesel engine with twin turbos. BMW tune cars just under its limit anyway so why on earth people push them more is beyond me. Its only when you start to purchase 1.6 or 1.8 are they detuned further, till of late when they have actually produced a 1600cc engine..... Anyway I am waffling on ha Remember with a turbo, let the oil and the engine in general warm up nicely and DO NOT thrash it straight away. When you have arrived at your destination let the engine tick over for 30 seconds to a minute to let the oil and pressures reduce and to also allow the impelor to stop spinning. Turbos run at awesome RPMs near enough 200000 to 700000 RPM, mad I know but they do and that is why they get damn hot. So let it cool and spool down. Failure to let it spool down results in duff bearings and shafts. If the turbo is still running and you shut the engine off you also stop the oil pump and oil circulation and the fan bearing runs on dry and wears out such much fast thus failing. So when people say "oh my turbo failed at 10000" I sit back and think ahh I wonder why. BMW ECU's are rather clever too, if your turbo exceeds its pre programmed MAX running temp the ECU will shut the vanes on the turbo and shut it off completely until it has cooled enough to operate again. Very very very very rare to happen but it has and does. It took me at least 18 laps around Silverstone before it decided to sod the turbo off. By the way after that track day the oil, coolant, brake fluid, brake pads and disks were changed, and all sus components were swapped to normal road use stuff. I have a friend say no more. Turbos are not cheap..... LOOK AFTER THEM AND DONT BUY CHEAP OIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Diesels need oil and very good oil at that, they will go on and on and on but they are like an instrument, you can play and play and play and you will love it and it will prove to be reliable but unless you care for it and treat it like the head and neck of a new born child it will bite you in the ass and bite hard it will. Go ahead thrash it and not service it afterwards or top the oil up or let it cool but I can assure you it will go pop in a black cloud of diesel hot burning oil smog.

Get the blanks from anywhere now which is handy. But E46s are getting on so best avoided like the plaige, they are a ticking bomb. Do worry about swirl flaps till you have them in the palm of your hand . Ermm and going by the above posts I do not thing any of us physical own a BMW to have swirls removed???

The E46 2.0 and 3.0 diesel block suffered from Swirl flap, turbo, EGR failure. The swirl flaps would break off and destroy the engine, you can remove them but its a PITA. Turbos fail either because nobody knows who to use a turbo (spool down after a drive) and also the pathetic 18000mile interval between servicing. So you end up with duff oil at about 10K anyway but the manufacturers think its fine to keep it in for a further 8??????? wrong if you ask me. The rear springs would also crack and fail MOT's. I changed mine about 3 times in the 2.5 years I had mine. Wishbones too fail near enough every 8k (lemforder). Its loves brake disks and pads, that block is not light at all. It can eat through tyres, that is all down to the set up for better handling. The 3.0 Diesel isn't so bad on turbos, lots of natural power, very little stress on the turbo but its a bigger lump and it lives on brake disks. The latter 2.0 Diesel from about 2007 up too late 2008 beginning of 09 (it depends on month of build) had a timing chain sprocket issue which like the swirl flap BMW wont admit (nothing new there), The sprocket was badly designed and didn't fit the chain quite right so eventually it would snap the chain and destroy the engine. Again swirl flaps are an issue, they had updated the cartridge the flap rotated in and up dated the rod that it attaches too but to no effect, IT WILL FAIL. Turbos are even more prone to failure for reasons unknown, probably too much power running through a lower rate turbo to keep manufacturing costs down. The 325d, 330d are superb, crisp and precise, the 325d is a detuned 330d that is all, its pushing 197BHP, its smoother than the 330d and by god its much more fruggle and car tax and insurance is a tad cheaper. If you do go for the E9x 3 series diesel then aim for the 325d, like the alfa 156 2.5 they are not the easiest to find and nor are they the cheapest. Dealers are starting to realize that the 2.5 unit is the hidden gem and will add a premium but it pays dividends. Any more help I am around

If you do go for a BMW 320d please for the love of all that is holy PM me for info on them. If I were you just stick with VAGroup. Maybe worth looking at an Alfa 156, GT, GTV, 159. Dispel ye olde word of reliability regarding Alfa's, they are really good and stylish and not boring like 99.8% of german boxes. 00.2% Being the M division of BMW, Alpina Tuning GmbH & Mercedes Benz's AMG. Alfa 156 2.5 V6 24v, tax band K, awesome spec, uber cheap, low mileage, not the biggest eater of fuel. If you can find a 2.5 that is. Alfa Owners tend to hold onto them.................. Why?? because they are so damn good. Not alot needed to keep them in tip top condition. Servicing you can do yourself, it wont kill the value. Best of all you will be a true petrol head and in a stylish motor . I will get one with you if, I am looking at them at the moment as a weekend car

Mind were standard fit. I would love to but I wouldnt know where to start with elecs. Only reason I managed to sort mine was pure luck and its was all easy to get to (ish). I am sure a more savy man or woman can assist

Good news.... Ive fixed it. I was looking at the old relay and as clear as day the two pins at the bottom were bent down...... Staring me in the face. How I have not noticed before beats me but anyway. demonufo, thank you very much for the advice and help and thanks for everybody who has commented. The car is now perfick PW

See above.. Driver seat now has heat but the PAX seat does not. When the selector switch is adjusted to 5 you can hear the relay clicking. Could this be that the Relay I have got from the net is also faulty thus requires a new one?? Thanks

Right then gents, Slight change in situ... Took the car out with the seat heaters on which I didnt notice, my arse got lovely and warm but I can hear the relay clicking a lot and loud...... The passenger seat will not come on.... At a guess I would say the relay again. Opinions??

Ok so I swapped the relay anyway and the darn seats still arent heating. I still need a multimeter on it. Will a volt stick do the same job??? or do I need to know the values?? Thanks for the help guys

Ermmm when brakes are brand new and fresh out of the kiln warping is easier than you think. If you brake, the disk is rotating thus equal pressure and heat is caused however when the car eventualy does stop and your foot it still placed on the brake and pressure is squeezing the disk it will pit. It really is near impossible to see the damage but all you need is a fraction just so the pitted section looses friction against the pad. Brake disks can be skimmed to remove and resurface the disk but it costs as much as a new disk and its rare that people do it. The successive method works to a degree, as you say you can still feel it under braking at low speeds. Best course of action however is to scrap the fitted brakes, run the news ones in correctly. For the few milliseconds the disk doesnt have traction against the pad that significantly reduces braking power and increased overall brake distance. Pads and disks, like a fine wine have a maturity period and that is measure in distance I.E. 300 / 400 miles. They get better will age and mileage. Ive managed to warp disks and boil fluid on a track (TVR Tuscan) and that was fitted with very large, vented HONEYWELL JURIDS that I can assure you arent cheap. If I remember rightly the old Skyline used to overheat the disk, warp and then shatter...... Using Garnet paper is more used to isolate the squeel from pads, minor minor particles creating ultrasonic noise. Give it a go though, I could be proven wrong............. havent been wrong since 1997 ha

Rub it in......... mine are not working at the moment grrrrrrr

Best course of action at this stage is to change the pads and disks again but drive like a priest and be gentle on your brakes. use your handbrake even in stop start. Only for 400 miles, I know it sounds a lot but it will pass very quickly. Some may say just change the disks but its better to change both so that pads and disks mate to each other. Keep the brands the same and never go budget on them, remember they are your brakes and will have to save you one day, so bedding them in is absolute. So when you do slam the anchors on at speed and the heat is awesome then they will stop you well

Yea defo you should always run them in in the first 200 & 400 miles. Its matures the metal and hardens the structure of the metal through constant heating and cooling. It eventually forges to be much stronger. However if you have not done the run in then at high temps the metal will be soft (so to speak) and your pad sitting on the disk with lots of heat and lots of pressure will pit the disk. or if you dab the brakes suddenly and very very hard that will also cause them to pit so under normal braking you shall feel the juddering. Its on odd feeling , its like the brake is rapidly applying on and off very very quickly and giving the effect of a judder..