Phil2013

Afternoon all, the old Octavia ( '14 elegance 4x4 ckcf 2.0 tdi ) has a slow coolant leak still after nearly 2 years of ownership It had a genuine cambelt / waterpump, egr cooler and thermostat last year (and when fitting with the charge cooler off the tech whos used to these engine said the manifold was ok with no sign of it breaking down internally) but its still throwing up intermittent EML with a P0401 code, and still has the slight leak ( no milky oil either) , its now started to smell in the cabin even with the heater off. Unsure if the code is due to the egr being blocked as its gone from 50 miles a day to less than 10 daily due to change of job but the smell is enough to make you feel sick with a head ache in the cabin even with the windows down but the carpets are dry. 2 questions on the smell, 1) Is it safe to use K-seal as a short term fix (middle of a loft conversion so funds are tight) before fitting a new one in due course with system flush? 2) is there a recommended non genuine heater matrix and fitting kit which works well when i do get round to being able to fit a new one? Thanks

only that it was attached to a fwd estate. it's for a 4x4 elegance which has only slightly raise ride height compared to a standard one. also the bar on eBay is an aftermarket one not genuine skoda

I know there are 2 different types of swan neck from my research so far one seems suitable for carrying bike racks but the other not other than that not sure.

There's a mk3 tow-bar on eBay at the moment but its for as front wheel drive one, Just how different are the 4x4 ones to the fwd ones? e.g would it fit?

Perfect Thanks for all your help Guys

Could anyone advise type of bearing is fitted to the back of a 14 plate elegance 4x4? are they press in bearings (garage job) or the bolt on type with 3 bolts? EBay has loads but no definitive answers on what they actually look like! Thanks in advance

oh I've know doubt there are equally good firms north of the border, I know Bell do postal exchange units for the LR's so might do for his diff is he cant find somewhere more local. My own back end is whining in my elegance 4x4 a little at the moment its had a full H/D and Diff oil service recently with oils from Auto fault finder in Crewe , not 100% sure if its diff area or wheel bearings as it doesn't change tune with weight loading in the bends either but as I've had several wheel bearings not be affected by loading before I'm not ruling them out ( and tbh its not been the weather to get the jack out either!) On subject of warranty.. read the small print. I did have a Disco 3 some years ago, which i took out warranty in a just in case scenario, the electric hand brake failed and wasn't covered, even though they warranty specifically said it the covered the hand brake.. several months of arguing which ended with a nice £943 bill. 💩

Bare with me on this... Until recently I had a land rover freelander 2, now LR in their infinite wisdom speced the input shaft bearing in the diff a few sizes too small so they wear out, this gives a lovely whine noise when failed not to dissimilar to a to a fubared diff... so worth a listen if you can get the car on a ramp with it in gear. From my info the early Disco Sport and E-joke models they produce, seem to have exactly the same issues before they moved from Haldex with the more recently made ones, so they are running version 4&5 versions of haldex. and now to the point. These Guys have been sorting Haldex systems and associated transmission rebuilds for a while , I've personally used them on my old freelander 1 as they fitted a new PTU unit and countless Freelander 2 owners on the LR forums have been to them for their diffs and pinion bearings rebuilds and replacements if you can diagnose where the noise is coming from within the back end I'm sure these guys could help you. long drive from Scotland but worth it if they help sort it for you. https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/contact-us

Mine was loosing max to min in the bottle around the 600 mile mark which allows seemed to coincide with the DPF regen.

No in the main system, I want to get an endoscope to look though the IAT sensor hole to double check before I pull the trigger on a new one.

my Thermo**** stuck closed 3 weeks ago on way to work, (2.0 cr elegance 4x4 ) managed to get to my local garage by putting the heater on full warm and full power blower which kept the temp at 90. £58.20 for a genuine one, but its a bugger to get to as its under the inlet manifold which needs to come out.

Which Endoscope did you get out of interest?

I'm watching several in Europe at the minute for the AB part number, received an offer for £443+ £11 post from Lithuania, not 100% sure I need it as it seems to have stopped leaking presently and haven't had to top up since Saturday, so either it was the egr cooler leaking of the K-seal the tech put in has done its job.

To update further, there is an aftermarket manifold in development which should be available in December, which will retail at the £495 mark, however the manufacturer is apparently know for making sub standard radiators, no name given however by Darkside.

I sent them a query on the part number Quick responses as ever and the correct part for (in my own case) a CKFC 2.0 cr tdi is 04L 129 711 AB only from VW @ £795 +vat.....

OK so Dark side developments are selling new latest version coolers says for the MQB platform but doesn't mention the Octavia in the list and the part number is slightly different https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-mqb-charge-air-cooler-04l-129-711-ab.html Supersedes part numbers 04L129711AB - 04L129711 AB - 04L 129 711 AB 04L129711D - 04L129711 D - 04L 129 711 D

Any use? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165731073405?hash=item2696577d7d:g:XJQAAOSwMg1jTq6A&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoM7ndPdGx5LNaNV38ndSPrwc%2Fb7Y1PVuI0bvDvRU7q60Kj8jfYCBPBwanlXvQWsQhxYWkqiK%2B5yiRT33KxByYWs%2B2z7s2xgEZ9%2Bo%2FESOP5iUNV9V8AEYPJvuZXsw%2Fn64Fsjx29rr7wrSOxPmnDiMsSpqZdNKaf3RUkaC7PojWJq9GD5hkdj2dnxHGzjaHt3n5YQrUQ4iyX33p5RDqUHt06I%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5qNu8v-YA

Various threads on loosing coolant on here and your idea is a simple and effective one, if its leaking externally that is. I have a similar situation but not as extreme, mine only looses a bottle of coolant every 4-500 miles so watching threads like this if it turns out to be an internal leak these threads may help https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/coolant-blown-out-from-expansion-bottle.483783/ Also as a newer point, Dark side developments the diesel Tuner posted on their Instagram only this weekend of a leak found in the charge cooler which when removed was clear as one of the inlet ports was spotless clean compared to the standard sooty diesel mess on the others as the mini rad in their had failed, apparently bypassing the pipes on top can stop this leak and it can also be viewed by removing the IAT sensor and using a camera to see inside but this leak point doesn't appear to be as common on here as there are very few posts so worth bearing in mind if no other signs.

Where was that may I ask? Main dealer has quoted over £2200 Mr Clutch is quoting £850.59 but no mention of the flywheel so I doubt they have done as I asked on the inquiry form to quote for a 4x4

I rang Rainworth Skoda in Sheffield yesterday for a laugh. Apparently there are 2 types of flywheel on the car, if it happens to be the most expensive one £ 845.57, then the total job including Vat would come to £2276.... Has anyone had one replaced cheaper on a haldex car and if so where? Thanks

As the title says has anyone recently had a clutch and flywheel put ion a 4x4? whats the going rate as my flywheel has started knocking? Thanks

Mines a 14 plate on 128k, paid £8k at the start of the year for it which is £3k over what it was worth 12 months previously, and prices are still climbing. its a no brainier really time fora new clutch and flywheel in my case and I'd say the same for yours. Mine wont be £875 however being the 4x4 version 😬

Sounds like it needs a new clutch and flywheel tbh my own flywheel on my elegance 4x4 has just started to knock/rattle when the engine is hot and clutch is fully disengaged, to the untrained ear it just sounds like its hunting/ misfiring with a rough idle, but put even the slightest pressure on the pedal it all goes quiet. But for the sake of checking have someone put their foot on the clutch as you watch the flywheel pulley for any movement, if it moves check the pulley itself for play and if none there its crank related if no moment on pulley side its clutch related.

A general car dealer with a link to a repair garage I believe. Sadly I don't know where the repair side of the deal was done only the car dealer

Is a dangerous thing apparently.... Recent purchase had the haldex reactivated by the garage under warranty with a recon haldex pump, however it always juddered when it activated as if the transmission was winding up, due to various reason I decided not to go back to them to resolve instead I bought the service kit from www.haldexrepairs.co.uk. Arrived Saturday and got cracking, what emerged from the haldex unit was 100% not haldex fluid! Very Thick, even after a ten minute drive to warm things up, off gold in color and stunk of fish ( recently changed when recon pump fitted) , from my former life as a ford tech I'd say it was transit gearbox oil. washed it out with some extra haldex oil and refilled. Night and day in how it responds now, when first moving off there is a slight feel of the system engaging to test the grip levels then nothing, no longer does it engage and disengage constantly with thumps until about 15 mph out of every junction. 😃 Diff oil changed too, that looked original as it had a rainbow sheen on it so obviously past its best. wrong oil says either garage didn't car enough to research or the tech didn't know their arse from there elbow.