DunDunFather

I have a guide in the How-To section if it helps: LINK

@lucky_taz I have a set of 17" Ray alloys for sale as I upgraded to 18s if you're interested? LINK

There's a few threads on here where people have discussed swapping the HU. There's also an ICE forum where you may get more help. You have actually posted in the Guides section which is for people who want to share step-by-step instructions on how to do things. You can ask a mod to move it into the main forum? I swapped from Swing to Columbus and put a guide together HERE.

I did the same upgrade to mine - see HERE for a guide. Although it sounds like you should go aftermarket based on your requirements. The main steps should still apply regardless of which one you go for. Also FYI you have posted in the "Rapid Projects" section, you would have got more replies by posting in the main discussion thread HERE.

There's an excellent thread HERE that should answer all your questions.

On Saturday I went to inspect my air filter and noticed a small hose had come loose somewhere. After frantically searching around I found where it should go but it would not stay in. I then did a search on Briskoda to see if I was right and came across this awesome thread! Many thanks @Mintyfresh, this was a lifesaver for me. After inspecting the value I confirmed I have the same issue as @KStep where the long part of the valve has broken off somewhere (probably inside the crank). The grommet itself was fine though. I've not had issues with oil smells in the car so I first thought I broke it there and then but on removing the cover I can see oil stains around the grommet so it must have happened previously but the valve somehow was "in" at least partly. I can now smell oil inside the cabin as I drive - I'll be replacing both the valve and grommet (just for good measure) once the parts arrive from the dealer. The part numbers @Koreenium has listed were correct for me. The value is around £23(!) and the grommet a couple of quid. A quick search on eBay produces lots of much cheaper copies (around £3-5 delivered) but I like to buy OE parts. Thanks again for this guide/thread - much appreciated.

So I first tried the SWL Fix ISO on this forum - burned a CD'R at 10x speed and put it into my headunit. It started to initialise then gave me an SWL error. I then tried again and it did the same thing, then thought it was not working and left it. Got into the car a few hours later and it started working! All my settings were intact, and maps - the only thing that was wrong was my music was wiped from my HDD which is no biggie. Not sure what the SWL Fix does but it worked for me.

Mine's just done the same bootloop out of the blue. It's a LED version with DAB+ and an SSD - no hacked firmware etc. I will try following this guide and see where I get.

Just upgraded my 17" Rays with 18" GMP Angels. These are running on 225/35/R18s and I've also had it lowered by 30mm on the Eibach springs and fitted the OEM mudflaps. I've still to get the Skoda center caps hence the hole in the middle. Only driven it a few miles but no rubbing and the ride quality is no worse than the Rays. Transforms the car looks IMO, the arch is filled now - just need to take care on those kerbs ...

Hi, I have recently upgraded my alloy wheels and so have my set of 17" Ray alloy wheels and tyres for sale. They have come off a 2014 Skoda Rapid Sport and all have kerbing, but no cracks or bends. Two of them have Dunlop SP Sport Maxx tyres (2-3mm tread left) and the other two have Firestone Roadhawk tyres (6mm tread left). The Dunlops have some cracks on the outer wall and a bulge too, they will definitely want changing. Looking for £300 for the set. I have high-res pictures if needed.

Hi, Sorry I can't be of more help - I didn't realise there was another type of Swing unit with a screen, I was thinking of the UK Swing unit I used to have. If the voice control isn't working it does sound like a coding issue, maybe this unit replaced an older one and was not coded correctly (or the MFSW was added after)?

Can you post a picture of your Swing unit and steering wheel?

No bumper removal required, once you take out the four screws the grill just slots out, pull it upwards tor release.

I managed to do this recently, using a 3rd party grill surround from a seller called kiba_shop in eBay. I paid around £35 delivered which is good, especially since SuperSkoda Kopacek don't ship anything bigger than a postage stamp to the UK anymore. It's a pain getting the old surround off regardless of whether you're trying to keep it intact or not but well worth it. There's four Torx screws to remove once you open the bonnet to release the whole grill. Once here give the grill the wash as so not to cake you in dirt when trying to remove the surround! The surround has metal clips with a slit in them, the grill itself then has a plastic shim that fits into the slit to hold it in place. The easiest way I found to do this is using some trim removal tools and a flat head screwdriver. Prise the shim out of the metal clip using a screwdriver (middle screwdriver in below pic) then use the trim removal tool to separate the surround from the grill (bottom orange tool in below pic). I started from the bottom right corner and worked clockwise. I broke 2 of the surround clips in total but managed to keep the old one intact. Fitting was the easiest part, just clip your surround back on with some pressure, pop the grill back and refasten the Torx screws. Big visual benefit for a small outlay of cost and effort!

Thanks for all your useful insight, especially around upgrading the headunit. I did a lot of reading before I upgraded and your posts were invaluable.

Main post updated with some links to other threads I have updated with pictures ... I will add some here in due course.

Fronts are 6R0411105B and rears are 1J0511115AL, I've just attached some pics.

I bought a brand new pair of front foglights a few years ago with the intention of opening them up and fitting some LED strips for DRLs, but never got around to it. These are genuine OEM foglights in brand new condition, never used or fitted. Comes with the surrounds. Collection only, pics to follow. Looking for £30. Part numbers are 5JA941699 & 5JA941700 for the lights and 5JA807681 & 5JA807682 for the surrounds.

I've recently fitted the 30mm Eibach lowering springs to my Rapid, so I have the OEM ones available. These have come off a 2014 1.2 TSI (105PS) hatchback with just under 50k miles on the clock. All in good condition, there seems to be some paint flaking on some of them but no cracks or structural issues. May fit other variants (Seat Toledo, VW Polo). Pics to follow, looking for £40. Collection Only - pics to follow. Fronts are 6R0411105B and rears are 1J0511115AL,

Quite a journey, but finally getting round to tastefully modifying the Rapid. I have a 2014 1.2 TSI (105PS). List of mods and current status: ✔ Front & Rear Parking Sensors ✔ Door Sills ✔ Custom Fit Leather Seat Covers ✔ Aftermarket Armrest - pics in this post HERE ✔ Columbus Head Unit With DAB+ / Nav / HDD - guide with pics HERE ✔ Stubby Aerial - pics in this post HERE ✔ Eibach Lowering Springs - pics in this post HERE ✔ LED Interior Bulb Upgrade - pics in this post HERE ✔ Exterior Bulb Upgrade - pics in this post HERE ✔ Black Grill surround - pics in this post HERE Black Skoda logos on the front and back and remove lettering ✔ Aftermarket 18" Alloy Wheels (GMP Angel) Painted Brake Calipers (Skoda Green) Amp / Speakers / Subwoofer Maxton Splitter Maxton Side Skirts (?) Gloss Black Roof Wrap (?) Items Available For Sale OEM Springs Fog Lights & Surrounds 17" Ray Alloy Wheels & Tyres Pics to follow.

Agreed - out of the three I changed the H15s were the least white. The H7s and the sidelights were noticeable different.

I got a couple of full interior LED kits from eBay. One I got a few years ago and some of the LEDs started to flicker / die so I upgraded again to a newer bulb type which is brighter. Makes a noticeable improvement. My kit came with front and rear domes, glovebox and boot plus a little plastic trim tool. Pics of front and rear below.

I recently upgraded all my front bulbs (the H15 DRLs, 501 sidelights and H7 mains) and the rear number plate lights to the new Osram Cool Blue Intense Next Gens. They're halogen road legal bulbs that supposedly light at up to 5000K. I didn't want to go down the LED route and Osram are the only company that do the H15s. Pics below but it's hard to tell without seeing it in person. They do give a whiter appearance and the performance while driving is better (120% as stated on the packaging). I've just put them in so can't comment on the lifespan, I'm still WFH so don't drive as much as I used to so for me it was worth it to try them out.