Paul52

I may be wrong but I think the need to accept or modify cookies is a legal requirement that came in a couple of years ago. Until then companies just downloaded them to your computer etc. and you were never the wiser. Now we are told about them and worry. Such is progress. But on a related subject the one that gets me hot under the collar is where simply to find out the price of something a company expects you to register, fill in name, address, email etc., stopping short only of sacrificing your first born (all presumably to enable them to send you lots of unwanted advertising in the future) before telling you either the item is out of stock or is wildly over-priced. My attitude is if you make it this difficult for a potential customer at the enquiry stage what will you be like if, having bought it, it goes wrong and I have to deal with you. I then look elsewhere. And back to the thread........

Depending on how long you have had you PIR lights this might be a good option. I've just this week put up a new PIR security light to cover a dark area in the garden behind my garage. (It's only taken me 35 years to get round to it). Deliberated for ages on which solar power one to buy before - doh, I've got power in the garage the other side of a 4" brick wall right where I wanted the light! I bought a NightSearcher Fast Star from the local hardware shop for about £20. It's 10W LED, gives 800 lumens, guaranteed three years and is ideal for what I wanted easily covering the whole area (around 4m*4m) with a clear but soft light more than sufficient to see anything going on and to stop me walking into things on the way to the compost bins but without it looking like a prison. The range includes lights in higher wattages if needed. I mention this modest DIY accomplishment only because I was amazed at how these small LED lights have come on in just a few years. (Tip: If you decide to buy the one I bought the sensitivity, time and dusk/dawn adjustments are in a panel on the back behind four screws, presumably to keep everything watertight. It will be easier to make any adjustments before you mount the light; I adjusted the dusk to dawn to minimum and the time to it's maximum of 5 minutes as with the default settings the light came on pretty much throughout the day and night but only stayed on a few seconds each time.

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I'd hoped that with the advice you received from others your problem would now be sorted. Have you definitely eliminated a dodgy plug lead? You say you have changed the spark plugs. Many years ago my now retired mechanic told me about a customer who was going grey (and into bankruptcy) trying to chase down a fault and had worked his way through the obvious and obscure options replacing parts as he went. In desperation he took it to Ron who started by checking the spark plugs the owner had fitted as part of a routine service. One was faulty. Apparently it was known in the trade that there would be small number of new but below-quality plugs in circulation all the time so garages routinely would test them as soon as they came out of the packaging. Problem solved. This probably isn't the root of your problems but if you have a friendly garage might be worth asking if they could test them for you.

"Well, what a considerate driver you are - as long as you are okay then sod the rest of motorists". It's not just other motorists, as you will agree if you've ever tried to cross a busy road, concentrating on the traffic, and cracked your shin into a towing hook. "You should be looking where you're going" isn't really an answer when we've got an increasingly ageing population and more people with less than perfect eyesight.

I've got a Yeti of a similar age and the 1.2 petrol engine. I know from that part of the forum the early models suffered from problems with the ignition leads - one of them ran too close to the engine and wasn't sufficiently insulated. This was a regular problem and was solved with modified leads and, I think, with cars from about the time mine was built by re-routing the affected lead. There may not be the same problem with Fabias but at 50,000 miles and accepting you don't want to go throwing money at it would it be worth changing the leads, even if you had to get a second hand set from a scrapyard just to see if it confirmed this as your problem? I will admit I'm not very technical so hopefully someone will be along that can give you better and more specific advice but I thought I'd mention it. Good luck.

Ah, the reference to the 100E and vacuum wipers brought back fond memories. A mate had one and in pouring rain we had to negotiate in an upwards direction a long and steep hill. The higher we got the slower the car got and with it the wiper speed (I think there were two - barely moving and not moving at all) and towards the top there was a real risk we would be reduced to a man walking in front with a red flag - a concern for me as the passenger as I'd be that man!! My own car was an elderly 105E in its 997cc guise but with electric wipers although the benefits of these were somewhat offset bay a whole in the passenger side wheel arch which a previous owner had professionally patched with a copy of the Sum and a tea towel; I discovered this at 2am in a near monsoon. The next car was another 105E in rather better shape before taking the plunge with a Ford Escort Mark 1 estate, less exciting than the Ford Anglia Alladette which I'd been tempted by from a "friend of a friend" which I subsequently found out was "rotten as a pair" and with an insurance rating for an 18 year old student which would mean I'd still be paying the instalments now. Totally off topic but what else to do on a Sunday?

Just taken a look at the puck for jacking (There is a specific polyurethane "puck" made by Powerflex: VAG JACK PAD PF3-1661 https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/VAG+Jack+Pad+Adpator/13324.html which is exactly the right profile if you want to try and protect the seamsealer) and the Yeti isn't listed (or I'm going more senile than I thought). Regarding the jacking points, I would agree those little raised triangles can be a devil to see even on a dry day in daylight. For something so important you would expect them to be very obvious. From memory on my Volvo there were similar marking but on the edges facing outwards so you could see them when you crouched down to fit the jack, which seems to make sense. In this case "Skoda - Simply (Not) Clever.

Thanks e-Roottoot for reposting the video of the 4x4 vs winter tyres video. It reminded me of why I run on Cross-Climates as a sensible all-year compromise - I don't have a problem with it taking a bit longer to get up to speed every time I have to accelerate (I'm old - where do I need to get to in a hurry; except a bathroom maybe?) but braking in the shortest possible distance if it becomes necessary is rather comforting. Being able to go faster in circles - well, I get dizzy standing up....... (When I first started visiting this forum reading about the advantages of having a set of winter tyres on a set of steel wheels I must admit to having been tempted; my previous Volvo V50 was a nightmare in snow. But I'm glad I resisted as living on the South Coast I don't think we've seen a snowflake in the seven years I've now owned this car so that would have a been a lot of wheel changes for little benefit. I suppose it would have kept me fit).

"As I'm oldish....." Unless I'm much mistaken that's actually an essential requirement to be a Yeti owner - that and devilish good looks and wearing socks with sandals. You have to score two out of three. And back to the OP's thread.