Paul52

Perhaps you just take out the spare wheel and fill the space with bits and pieces as necessary and will fit plus odds and ends in the polystyrene blocks. If needed you could put a simple support under the floor. You'd get a decent amount of extra space without any work and then when/if you decided to put the spare wheel back it would just go straight in. I'm all for a simple life.....

Thank you both (and Carlodiesel that PM'd me). I did both the above and still had the problem although fortunately if I didn't rely on the autoclosing function once up the window stayed shut, so no security/weather concerns, but kept on trying and suddenly for no reason it was back to working properly again. As the slogan goes - Skoda, Simply Clever ... and Occasionally Frustrating. So now its just a case of fingers crossed and see if it happens again.

I'm having the regularly experienced problem of the driver's window closing but then going back down to the half way position. This happens when I use the "auto" function on the switch but if I hold the switch up until the window is closed it stays closed. I've tried the usual remedy (several times over a couple of days) of turning the ignition on (but not starting the engine), lowering the window fully and then raising it whilst pushing the top edge out, then holding the switch in the up position for 10 seconds or so when there should be a click as the switch resets. But I'm not getting the click and the problem remains. Anyone any ideas? The car had a service about 10 days ago and a new battery but I can't honestly say the problem started then (in fact with the hot weather almost certainly I'd have noticed before now). For the moment it's just a bit of a nuisance so I'm in no rush to get a professional involved to start taking things to pieces and it's possible if it's a electronic glitch it will sort itself at some point. But someone may have had the same issue and found a solution.

My Yeti is serviced by a local independent and they don't seem to have a problem with having all the right kit for all the basic stuff. (They probably don't have the jigs to straighten a crash repair but I'm hoping I'll never need to find out). It's hard to believe that a main dealership can't do the necessary work on something within the same group. Perhaps you should put a polite and factual review on Trustpilot and see if they respond.

It's three years younger than my Yeti and got 15,000 less miles on the clock yet seems to carrying a lot of problems - like it's lost its nearside mirror? I may be a natural worrier but it seems like it might have had a hard life in the past and for me that would be "keep looking".

This is a photo of the Bolero fitted to my 2013 Elegance. Yours is rather different. I can't tell you whether there was a revamp of the unit between 2010 and 2013 although it's possible. This is the unit that takes 6 CDs. I think, but I can't be sure, there was an alternative unit fitted to some of the more basic models that was a single CD player. Hopefully someone with a 2009/2010 Yeti will see you post and put up a picture of their unit for you.

In case it helps, a few years back I had an irritating rattle that I struggled to pin down - sometimes it seemed to be coming from somewhere, other times from somewhere else. It didn't help that my wife and I could hear the noise at the same time but think it was from different parts of the car! Purely by accident I found it was a loose "stud" - one of the little stalks that the cord that raises the tailgate shelf when you lift the tailgate attaches to. I tightened it up and the noise was gone. I have a Yeti but if the Superb has a similar arrangement worth just checking the tightness of these little posts.

I've got a Yeti and before I ordered it back in 2013 I took the advice of the most knowledgeable Yeti owners and got Skoda UK to agree 16" wheels rather than the standard 17" wheels. Thirteen years on they have withstood British roads and potholes well, I find them comfortable to drive on and when I've had to buy new tyres I'm happy saving around £40 a tyre compared with the 17" option. I'm on my second set of Michelin Cross Climate tyres and they seem to suit the car well. (For what it is worth, I've also found the MCCs pretty quiet in terms of road noise).

Just a thought but rather than start pulling trims off, depending on how old the car is and how fussy you are, maybe a little clear silicon sealant to hold the clip to the trim? If it works, great. If it doesn't then it's not a problem to slice through it and go down the trim removal route. (I've not had this problem but the car and I have reached an age where we look for simple answers!).

I second Carlo. My Yeti is now 13 years old and I've been following this forum all those years. In that time there have been reports of strange things happening, for example random warning lights coming on for no apparent cause, and in some cases replacing the car battery resolved the problem. I did experience this myself when the car was around six or seven years old. The battery wasn't giving me any problems but replacing it seemed an easy option (as it would rule out a dodgy battery; it was something that was likely to need replacing soon anyway and in the cost of running a car it's not a lot of money). I was lucky and had no more issues. Would it be worth putting a charger on the battery until you get a full charge reading and see if you still have the fault?

Thanks guys. Comforting to know that in most cases it will just look after itself. But in the worst case it's not a big problem to pull out the radio and get the serial number.

This seems to be about my level. There is one button. You push it. Then you leave everything alone and go and have a cup of tea or several. I can beat your wife (I probably could have put that better) as mine has been in a senior management role for 52 years, all of them blissfully happy , or so it says on the directive I've just been passed.... Co-incidentally just before I read you post I opened a letter from my garage (how old school is that?) reminding me of my MOT and I'm about due for a service. Thank you for the advice. I'll be back to the forum with my next crisis shortly.

After my recent battery problems I read up on how to change a battery without losing power to the radio but things can go wrong so I was wondering what my code was. I couldn't find anything in the paperwork from the dealer who sold me the car new but is no longer in business. Googling didn't give anything other than there "might be a sticker in the glove box (there isn't) or to remove the radio to get the serial number and then use this to get the code from a dealer or one of the sites on eBay, provided you can find a reliable one. Has anyone found a way to extract the code from a working radio without removing it? I know it's only removing the trim and four bolts but come on Skoda, that's not Simply Clever it's just irritating. I did find this on a thread from 2019 which I'm reproducing (acknowledgements to pikpilot) as it may be helpful to someone in the future. "If the radio remembers it was switched on last time it was used, when you put the battery back on it will ask for the code. If you then switch the radio off and then the ignition off then ignition on then radio on it will start up without asking for a code. Waiting for one hour causes the radio to go off again so next time you apply power via the ignition it will go through the process of the code checking handshake with the display system correctly and the radio will work when it switched on". The thread is https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426867-bolero-radio-code/

You're good with "Paul you're over thinking it". You've never met me and yet diagnosed my tendency to jump to the worst case scenario and work backwards 🙂. You also get a thumbs up from my wife, who has never believed in loyalty. I've bought the Ring battery charger and it's on the car now doing its thing (or so I assume - the instructions are in those pictograms that are universally incomprehensible). Since the weekend (and I know it's only Wednesday today) the car has been starting as normal and it's had two decent runs of 40 miles or so the last two days to the vet - for those who think £100 for a battery is a lot of money, my advice is don't get a Cocker Spaniel no matter how cute they look. So I'm going to do my usual thing of crossing fingers, stick my head in the sand and hope it was "just one of those things". It is due to go in for MOT and service in the next few weeks so if nothing else goes wrong between now and then I'll get them to test the battery and charging whilst it is with them - they're a local firm that I've been going to for 10 years or so and I can trust them to be honest.

I'm not sure if my Yeti has the same engine as yours or if it could be related but several years ago I had a constant smell of oil in the car, really noticeable when driving. A local garage had a look at it for me but couldn't find anything but didn't charge me. For which I'm thankful. I'm not really mechanically minded but decided nothing to lose by having a bit of a poke around (just fingers, no tools so whilst I might have electrocuted myself hopefully I'd not damage the car). Doing this I found a loose pipe, maybe 8mm diameter which should have connected to one arm of a tee joint but it had broken. Stiffness in the three pipes meant it wasn't obvious to the eye there was a break. A quick search on eBay and I found the little three arm connector for a couple of pounds, carefully removed the broken piece of pipe from the tube (I didn't want it to disappear into the engine through my clumsiness), connected the three hoses and the problem was solved! Once I'd found the break it was five minutes work even for the technically challenged. (Or four hours labour plus parts at a main dealer; me? cynical? how dare you!). I didn't have any noticeable oil leak, or maybe I just didn't notice, but yours might be a similar situation. Worth having a good prod around and see if anything moves more than you think it should?

Sorry typo - September 2021. Fat fingers, bad eyesight and declining mental abilities not ideal for existing in the modern world. But not a bad description of a lot of us Yeti owners 🙂. (See, it's only us old 'uns that think the original smiley face is still cool. Or use the word cool).

It's been niggling at me why my battery suddenly gave up the ghost Sunday morning. I tried the thing of starting the car this morning (started just like it usually does) with 14.0 volts showing on my little meter, then turned on the headlights, the heated rear window, the heated windscreen and the fan up on high. The voltage dropped to about 13.5 volts and then went up a couple of points. I've been out in the car, my usual two 5 mile runs, and its started without problems each time. So what could have caused the problem? Once in a while I'll forget to unplug the sat-nav but didn't seem likely. Then I thought about my regular journey - to walk the dog in the local woods. Usually it is a reliable 5 miles journey each way but over the last couple of months the local authority has spent a small fortune reducing carriageway widths, tightening corners and widening footways on an important local staggered cross roads to create a wonderful cycle route where you seldom see a cyclist and this has meant traffic signal on all arms with long delays. It usually has been taking two and sometimes three complete cycles to get through the junction. With very long inter-green times I have been switching off my engine whilst waiting, moving forward and then switching off again. I'm now thinking with a four and a bit year old battery these repeated starts a couple of times a day over weeks may have drained the battery more than the driving sections were able to replace. Basically I've been using stop/start without the technology and bigger battery that this needs. Electrical engineering was my nightmare when I trained to be a civil engineer (best advice from the relevant professor was "You will be young civil engineers. When you go out on site and there is an electrical problem CALL A <expletive> ELECTRICIAN it will save your employer having to scrape you off the wall, what's left of you". I digress) so I don't know whether that's right or if I'm even on the right track but I think we can say I won't be switching the engine off at those road works again. Lesson learnt.

"You might start spending it more on gambling and loose women". Nigel, I thought we had agreed we weren't going to mention this on the forum? There are some loose lips here and we really don't want our other halves to question whether on Friday nights we are really at bible study together. I had a hard time convincing my wife that it's normal practice to use Pinot Noir as a stand in for Communion wine and that donations to BetFred on the credit card are charitable donations to help Betty and Frederick with their living costs; foreign holidays, maintaining the Mercedes etc. (Hopefully I'm not offending anyone - I still recall Bob's exit from the forum some years back for his misunderstanding of political correctness. Although on this forum the M word might be the problem).

Thanks for all the additional thoughts and information. I will run through Johngerard's checks tomorrow. After my pointless trip to Halfords (two or three miles return) I turned the engine off and it restarted without a problem. But it was hot (from idling for about 90 minutes) so it will be interesting tomorrow morning. I have two booster packs charging here now, pessimist that I am. And thank you for drawing my attention to Tayna, several options there. And finally benefiting from a local government pension so I have a comfortable and reliable income Crucian's four year regime of battery changing does have some appeal. I'll now wish you all good night.

OK, at the risk of "we told you so" I ordered a Yuasa battery from.... Halfords. They even gave me £5 off. I had a confirmation of order text and email telling me not to come to the store until the order had been processed. Twenty minutes later I had another text and email to tell me it was ready for collection. All good so far. Having got the car started I can't risk turning off the engine so my wife comes with me to sit in the car with the engine running whilst I collect the battery to fit when I get home. The assistant asks for my name and the order number. Enters this on the computer, checks the three cupboards behind him, rechecks my name and order number, disappears out the back, comes back, consults a colleague before checking my name and order number for the third time. Then I'm told the order has been cancelled, by Halfords! He tells me they tried to phone me but there was no reply. I advised him I have been sat alongside my phone because, not unsurprisingly, I was anxious to collect the battery asap because the store would close at 5pm. The next explanation was that they must have the wrong phone number for me, so we check and, sure enough, the number they "called me on without my answering" is the correct number - the number they have been sending the text messages to. So I pull up my call log and, mystery of mysteries, I've not had any calls today, let alone one from Halfords and definitely not since the text to collect the order. Now there are two theories here. Theory one is that dark forces are at play malignantly trying to stop me buying a new battery for my car, possibly as part of some wider plot to overturn western civilisation as we know it. Theory two is that Halfords cancelled the order by mistake and decided to make it the customer's fault, forgetting that with modern technology their blatant dishonesty is easily proved. Thank you Halfords for a wasted Sunday afternoon but on the positive side some more competent business will get my order. And to add insult to injury, the cost of the battery is showing on my credit card but not the refund. Hands up all those that are surprised by that. No one?

Quick update. I've left the engine running for an hour or so and my cheapo meter is showing 14.0 volts. (I'm not competent to be let lose with a multimeter but this is probably a reasonable approximation of what is going on). I've not moved it yet but everything seems to be functioning but I've got three warning lights on - tyre pressure, traction control and ABS. I seem to recall a selection of warning lights is normal after a battery is disconnected and reconnected and these switch themselves off after a few hundred metres so I'm not panicking yet. I'm waiting to collect a Yuasa HSB027 which is recommended for the Yeti and has lots of good reviews. Just a little concerned the width is listed as 129mm which is a lot narrower than the current Bosch 170 but it's not unusual for a web-site to get the dimensions wrong and any problems fitting (I can just about manage that and I don't have the problems of stop/start and coding, I think) and it will go back. Ah, it's a fun way to spend a Sunday afternoon.....

Thank you everyone for your help and advice, it's much appreciated. I'm responsible for running a 93 year old father-in-law to medical appointments etc. and have an elderly dog that's keeping the vet in a lifestyle I'd have if I didn't have said elderly dog. I take Warrior 193's point that even if I can get a decent charge in the battery it might only be a short term solution so taking all that into account, and the fact I've had four years out of the battery, I'm going to take the advice that I've offered people on this forum over the years - that in the cost of running a car replacing a battery possibly a bit prematurely isn't a bad thing and it does mean at least if a problem persists it is something that can be crossed off the list. Again, thank you for your help and advice; and on a Sunday.

That's right, it's the Classic Yeti so it's not stop/start. I've just been out to the car and after about an hour the battery has recovered to 8.8v and the dash lights came on and the tailgate unlocked - then I decided not to push my luck. I will check the voltage when I can get it started as Johngerard suggests. I've been doing the same pattern of driving, mainly 5 mile each way trips and an occasional longer run a couple of times a month (but still around 40 miles round trip) for several years now since retiring without any problems but a charger seems a sensible investment - things are fine until suddenly they aren't. I don't want anything to clever and I'm thinking about one of these https://www.toolstation.com/ring-smart-battery-charger-maintainer/pAF045 The blurb says it is compatible with lead-acid, gel, calcium, EFB, AGM and lithium-ion batteries" and it's weather proof so I can leave it hanging in the car port when needed. Thank you both for your quick and helpful responses.

Morning all. Went to start the car this morning and lots of dash lights came on and a horrible noise from under the bonnet, as you can hear in the video. After three or four attempts at starting everything is dead, no warning lights, no sidelights and I'm not going to risk locking and unlocking as the tailgate has locked itself. As you can see in the video I tried connecting a jumper "battery" but now find that this one from Lidl doesn't hold it's charge as well as my father-in-law's Noco one, so it's now on charge - pay cheap pay twice?). A cheapo battery meter is now showing just over 7 volts. The battery is a Bosch fitted in September 2022 with a four year warranty (so just six months out of warranty). There's been almost no warning although I mentioned to my wife the last couple of mornings that it seemed a bit sluggish starting but was fine for the rest of the day. It gets at least two 5 mile runs every day. I'm hoping it's just the battery given up rather early (I'd rather buy a new one than take a chance on getting this one back functional - at least this time it's let me down in my own drive) but decided it's worth asking for any thoughts here before I rush into anything, not least whether the battery failing like this could be a symptom of other problems. It's as well to be prepared for the worst. (This could be the day I regret not buying a battery charger "just in case"). PXL_20260329_101158679.mp4

1.2 tsi so petrol rather than diesel but mine is still going strong. I seem to remember reading on this forum years ago the exhaust is stainless steel(?) but I wouldn't swear to it.