Clive1942

Thanks for your responses. Expatman, I totally agree about the problem of changing a wheel at the roadside. Not a good working environment! Cheers Clive

Hello all, I need to get a raised boot floor for my Yeti. This is so that I can more easily load a heavy manual wheelchair into the boot. The main problem is one of description; is it a Raised Boot Floor or a Mid-boot floor? The primary need is to get the floor level nearer in height to the rear door striker panel and do away with such a drop which makes unloading very much harder. The primary need for this is that I'm on Chemo and this session has robbed me of strength which is quite alarming. Obviously, with more underfloor space I shall be able to consider a spare wheel kit as well. Another line of thought is to have a chair hoist fitted which is electrically powered but initial cost is a bit eye watering! The local dealer suggests that the part number is DAA630001 but Skoda-Parts at Plzeň, CZ show this: mid-floor for the luggage compartment, intended for vehicles without the capacity for a spare wheel, load capacity: 75kg Your thoughts and experience will be appreciated. Many thanks Clive

Hello Joao, The details you show look OK but I would emphasise that I had SJB at Basingstoke do the coding for me. The only other thing that I can think of is to ask how you are powering the camera? The feed for the camera needs to come from the reversing light feed (which is alongside the tail light loom). Alternatively try testing the installation with a jump lead from the cigar lighter to the camera to prove that it will work. ATB Clive

Yes you will need to cut the cable, as the RCA end terminals are too large to fit into the radio at Pins 6 and 12. (#6 Positive, #12 Negative (earth). The terminals which will fit into the radio can be cannibalised from these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-65-Breadboard-Jumper-Leads-Wires-Cables-Solderless-Arduino-Circuit-Test-By/201542632909?epid=1743032717&hash=item2eece085cd:g:wHgAAOSwyjBW6KwY:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true ATB Clive

Hi Joao, Good question, it made me think hard for a few minutes! The camera cable is of course supplying the video signal. Be sure that your video cable is long enough to run from the camera to the back of the radio. On my Yeti I got the longer cable which was available. It's easy to lose extra length by looping up but near to impossible if everything is too tight. My video cable is threaded through the Elephant's Trunk at the top of the tailgate, then across the rear header and down the 'D' pillar towards the tail light. Then it can be passed along the side of the luggage compartment (just below the window) until it reaches the rear door opening. Work the cable inside the trim down to the rear floor, then along the sill interior moulding. You may have to lift off the door aperture seal to do this, it will come off with a wriggle and pull. That will release the edge of the plastic trim. With a little patience, you will be able to get the cable all the way forward right up to the 'A' Pillar and the fuse box. Hopefully this answers your question, if not, please let us know. Cheers, Clive

Yes, absolutely. I'm impressed with the price. When I had an external camera on my Octavia, I twice lost the front lens. The second time was in the car park at Gun Wharf Portsmouth where the floor is clean and area lighting is good so I was lucky to spot it on the ground. It was that which convinced me to try an internal camera. Cheers Clive

David, I've fitted one to my Yeti and written a how-to (see below). The camera is fitted inside the tailgate, on the upper trim panel and points downwards. Seems to work very well. Cheers, Clive

Part Seven (final part) Next problem was threading the Video cable along the right-hand-side to the front of the car. Removal of the door seal rubber around the door lock striker area allows the plastic trim to be eased slightly. That will expose a void where the cable can drop in. With the rear quarter inner panel removed and a screw or two from the boot trim plus a torch, I was able, using a combination of electrician's access rods and curtain wire to get the video cable along to the RH rear door aperture. That bit is awkward as there is some foam rubber stuffing inside the trim board. After that it was simply a matter of pulling the door seals away and laying the cable into the void. Up the RH footwell and into the fuse box space, completing the cable run. The Cable to the radio was already in place (SJB Autotech previously enabled and tested the coding with the camera hanging on a test lead). The door seals can be eased off using a trim tool but refitting is a matter of pushing back onto the door flanges and a quick wriggle and thump to seat them. Refitting the Tailgate Trim. Elsewhere in Briskoda there are diagrams of the trim panels and the trim clip positions. Some clips stayed in the trim upon removal, others pulled out and stayed in the tailgate. Remove those in the tailgate with pliers, straighten and place into the trim panels. Being fussy, I brushed a little vaseline on each trim clip to help remounting. At this stage an assistant with a broom is useful to support one side whilst you work on the other. Lift and locate the upper trim panel, then when the clips are located simply thump the trim into place. Repeat for the lower panel. Replace the pull handle screw. The parcel shelf pegs are plastic so do not overtighten. Close the tailgate, switch on and engage reverse, adjust the camera angle for desired view. The closest you can get will be 2 or 3 feet back from the bumper. Happy and safe reversing! Cheers, Clive

Part six The earth was fitted with a ring terminal and attached to the body with a self tapping screw. I positioned the screw close to the loom aperture so it sits inside the tail lamp inner seal area. The terminal and screw were brushed with vaseline before installing. I use vaseline because it's inert - no detergents or other fillers. (It's the same when protecting battery terminals before connecting). The continuity isn't affected because screwing the job together ensures metal to metal contact but any remaining vaseline keeps out moisture and helps prevent corrosion.

Part Five The wrapping is textile so it's easy to make a small hole and feed in the wire. I carefully unwrapped the loom cover and brought the new wire out to the terminal position. Heat shrink tubing in place ready and a quick touch of solder of the Positive onto the wire end of the reverse lamp terminal. The heat shrink was then pulled forward and heated and the terminal replaced in its block. The top section of the terminal block opens up which helps access when pulling the terminal out and replacing after soldering the feed wire.

Part Four Then the power lead was threaded into the loom wrapping, about 8cm from the end.

Part three I had marked off the trim where I wanted to fix the camera before stripping down, so I screwed it into position on the inner face of the top trim and, with a small notch filed into the front edge (away from the glass) of the trim plastic, fed the wires through one of the slots close to the high-level brake lights. Then through the elephants trunk and plastic inserts and down into the Right hand 'D' pillar (that's the rearmost one). A bit of fishing with the curtain wire between the top aperture and the tail lamp loom soon had the camera wires down the pillar, grabbed with the forceps and out into the tail lamp space. So, we now had the power wire, earth and video feed available. I had real trouble finding an earth point. There are one or two screw heads visible but they must be into plastic nuts, as I couldn't get continuity. The obvious thing was to screw the earth direct to the body, behind the tail light inner housing. (Picture is further down). Next step was to provide a power supply for the camera. I tapped into the reverse lamp loom for this. The reverse light supply terminal needs to be unlatched and removed from the terminal block with a Terminal Release Tool. Mine was the Blue wire in the centre of three.

Part 2 So, looking through my "useful raw materials" I realised that these Female connectors would do the trick: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Row-of-40-pcs-Arduino-Breadboard-Dupont-Jump-Wire-M-M-M-F-F-F-Jumper-Cable-Lead-/322593831895?var=&hash=item4b1c173bd7:m:m2upkrjglA0aa3LVtIFjC_g These are jump leads for electronics breadboards. Just flick the plastic cover off the end and there is a terminal of the right size. You only need 2! (And much cheaper than those referenced above). With a camera fully connected and laying on the seat, the next step was a visit to my local specialist, SJB Autotech in Basingstoke to get the camera code enabled. With the camera already connected, we could see right away that the coding was correct. Now to instal the camera, so off with the tailgate trim. I recommend a set of trim removing tools as above. I chose something cheap with postage included. No great worries on quality as these tools are somewhat expendable as they do collect wear marks and scars with use. Wiring was next. First off, the RHR tail lamp assembly was removed and the multi-plug disconnected. Elephant's Trunk and Tailgate Wiring: Don't worry or panic about the elephant's trunk, it's quite simple and works like this: Gently peel the rubber trunk from both ends, it comes away rather like a grommet and exposes the plastic inserts at each end which engage in the holes in the bodywork. With a tiny screwdriver or small wire hook with flattened end, release the holding catches and ease the inserts away from the apertures. When replacing, refit the inserts into each end of the trunk rubber, then push/click back into the holes in the bodywork. When you are doing some wiring, do remember to thread the wire through both inserts as well as the trunk!

Due to size restrictions, this will have to be in several parts: At last the Yeti has a functioning reversing camera. Here's a description of the installation. Tooling Required: *Multimeter. *Forceps. <http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forceps-Fishing-6-8-10-12-Inch-Straight-Or-Curved-Carp-Pike-Sea-Fly-Locking-/261350566327?var=&hash=item3cd9b529b7:m:m6enPB2R-o4YgwBycwunP-w> (No, don't laugh, they really are useful. I've had some in my toolkit for well over 40 years and wouldn't be without them). *Splined screwdriver bits. *Trim removal tools: <http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162439497701> *Springy curtain wire for threading and pulling wires through cavities. *Electricians Cable Access rods:- <https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p50619?table=no> *Soldering Iron. (Mine is a Dremel which is gas-powered. Therefore, no danger of stray electrical charges feeding into the job). *Terminal release tool:- <https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_1505410463&feature=iv&src_vid=5rlXZUvhEsQ&v=bbW9Yc36RPE> There are some el-cheapo terminal release tools on Ebay but they are made of aluminium so I imagine that they would not last very long. *Heat-shrink tubing. ~~~~~~~~~~~ When I had the Octavia, I fitted a camera above the number plate, from <Parkingcameras.com>. That system used the interior mirror as a viewing screen. Fairly pricey but very good service from those people. For this Yeti, I bought a cheap camera from Ebay and have mounted it inside the car, at the top of the tailgate trim. It can be adjusted downwards and provides a good enough view starting around 60cm from the bumper. The sighting lines built into the display show me that once I pass the yellow line, that is close enough! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252838192341 Mine was £10.29, free postage from Manchester. I try to avoid getting stuff from China due to the timescale – even though the product is Chinese. First off was to get the Bolero Infotainment system prepared so with the radio removed (trim surround and 4 screws) I wired up a link on a Phono cable, plugged into the back of the radio. The wires go into terminals 6 and 12 of the blue socket. I've used Blue and Yellow wires, those colours being available to me. Thanks to PAB567, I learned that the connections are #6 Positive, #12 Negative (earth). The radio terminals are 0.6mm diameter so finding connectors is difficult. These might be OK <http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-VW-VAG-High-Quality-1-5mm-Micro-Timer-II-Terminals-Seals-/131408283609?hash=item1e988b47d9> But I have no assurance on size.

Elephant's Trunk and Tailgate Wiring: Don't worry or panic about the elephant's trunk, it's quite simple and works like this: Gently peel the rubber trunk from both ends, it comes away rather like a grommet and exposes the plastic inserts at each end which engage in the holes in the bodywork. With a tiny screwdriver or small wire hook with flattened end, release the holding catches and ease the inserts away from the apertures. When replacing, refit the inserts into each end of the trunk rubber, then push/click back into the holes in the bodywork. When you are doing some wiring, do remember to thread the wire through both inserts as well as the trunk! Cheers, Clive

I totally agree, but I'm happy to buy some. Fitting is not a problem. Thanks to John999boy for the link to Bolt-Sport.com. Cheers Clive

Found it, it is Superskoda. I've sent a message to ask about the cables. Taking the door cards of, and indeed doing wiring is no problem. Cheers Clive

Thank you. As the lights are on only when the door is open, I was trying to guess how that would work. Obviously related to the Interior light circuit but it may mean having to do some threading of cables from the body into the door. I was hoping that they might have provided the power and I would only need to connect up. Trying to find the overseas supplier of the upgrades, but can't remember who they were. They even offer a 3 pack, with 2 door lamps and a boot lamp. I don't think it was Superskoda.

My 2016 Yeti Outdoor SL has little red reflectors set into the inner lower part of the front doors. I saw on a website (Superskoda possibly?) some complete LED lamps for this. Mine does not appear to be wired up for these lamps. Should all models of the Yeti have actual lights in place? If I get a pair of lamps, do you know if there is a special wiring harness available? Also, are these lamps on all the time after dark even with the doors closed? Cheers Clive

My 2016 FL Yeti has standard DRL incandescent bulbs and I would like to fit LEDS. The present incandescent bulbs are just too yellow and need to be more piercing. Might deter some of the idiots pulling out in front of me with insufficient room. Didn't seem to happen with the Octy. Having read through this thread I really cannot believe the situation. I've poked and prodded under the hood, it seems that the indicator and DRL bulbs really are out of sight. How does all this work for the facelift 2016 model? Is bulb replacement on the FL also a destructive affair? At first view, Skoda seem to have lost their corporate mind. Sealed lights for goodness sake!! The old fashioned Lucas Sealed Beam headlamps could at least simply be swopped as units. I shall take a wing liner out and see what I can discover. Thanks to The Plumber for posting the diagrams. It always helps to have an idea of the shape of the job before tackling. And to know where to look for the fastenings. There is a topic on the Yeti Owners Club site, where Skoda replied to correspondence, including this: "Should the bulb require replacing in France you can take the vehicle to a ŠKODA retailer in France, again they would have their own labour charges". Clearly, Skoda get all shapes and sizes of customer but having misspent my young days as a Motor Vehicle Technician, complete with a collection of relevant certificates I would not take kindly to be sent to a stealer for a bulb change. It's as bad as having Halfords wanting to change the wiper blades on my Octavia Mk2 VRS. (I hardly even want them to get close enough to read the number plate!)

pab567 mentioned that the camera should be connected directly to blue connector pins 6 and 12. My question then, which of these 2 connections are Positive and Negative? Cheers Clive

My Yeti has the 'Infotainment' Bolero radio. As such it should accept a camera signal input, once the coding has been sorted. I asked the stealer about the Bluetooth and his reply was: Majority of the Skoda range has the facilities to have smartlink activated however it is not a standard feature. I believe we can supply an activation code for £136. If you would be interested in this please do let me know and I can arrange our parts department to give you a call! What this means is that I would have to buy a licence from them to get the functions activated. A nice profit line in 'Extra Overs' having paid a lot for the car. This car was only 6 months old when I bought it and I wonder if they deactivate the functions when a car comes in from the previous owner, so they can resell the licence! Possibly the iPod connection falls into this category too. Regarding the camera, have you seen my post above (April 19th)? On my Octavia I fitted a camera and that had a monitor built into the interior mirror. I used Parkingcameras.com. A bit pricey I thought but the service is sound. Cheers Clive

Further thoughts: Has anyone fitted a camera to the tailgate internal trim of the Yeti? Mounting a camera high up may not be ideal for aiming into a parking bay but I think that the mirrors are still ideal for that. An internal camera would of course keep clean and not be affected by mud or rain. Probably can't be seen from the outside, because of the tinted glass. I experimented with my iPhone to get a general idea of what could be sighted at the back glass point and it seems that it would work OK. Now to try and select a camera with a low profile case that will mount into the trim panel. I also slipped the radio out and checked the connections, I now understand the business of Blue Connector, 6 and 12. The pins are actually numbered in the moulding, visible when the big black socket is removed (it has a locking handle built in).

Yes, that really is a PITA. There is always the Small Claims route but obviously you really want it rectified properly. Suggestion: I built a concrete section garage many years ago and put in several perspex roofing sheets, two at the bench end and another further along. Made a big difference to the interior when working there during daylight. Cheers Clive

And my thanks to Great Yeti also. Threading cables from fusebox to Dashtop box isn't hard. I use curtain wire (the plastic covered variety) as it is flexible and by twisting it if it gets stuck, can often be steered around obstacles. If further threading or fishing is needed, the electricians cable access rods are helpful (Toolstation ref 50619). Otherwise, stiff electrical cable - the sort that is buried in the house wall - can help as it can be bent into various shapes and be used to push. Quite handy if you need to put a wire across the headlining. This weekend I've been putting front parking sensors in and had to work out how to get the wires into the car from the engine compartment. Rather a fiddle! I shall be fitting some USB sockets into the top box so have left a pull-cord in place from the fusebox to the dash centre. This can be picked up when ready with the top box removed so further wiring will be simplified. I can locate a 12v to 5v regulator behind the fusebox and secure it with cable ties. This sort of adaptor works well http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-to-5V-Dual-USB-Power-Adapter-Converter-Connector-Car-Motor-3A-Charger-UK-/161976793008?hash=item25b691b7b0:g:ANAAAOSwUuFWvsWZ I suggest that you avoid those little round adaptors that plug into the power socket. They are usually 'Buck' regulators and give a very noisy output since there is little or no smoothing in the circuits. I had one on the Octy and it upset the dashcam with loads of screen noise and it made the parking sensors scream! Cheers Clive