mrburdon123

I used this link to help find the ofset difference from standard. http://www.willtheyfit.com The fit of the 18 is all good. Iv done 300 miles on them and not felt any rubbing or knocking. The standard gigaro wheels are ofset of 41 and 7 inch wide. These iv fitted are ofset 35 and 8 inches. Imo 18"s are too big for the hatchback but look fine on the estate. I also think that an ofset of 39 would suit best on the front. The rears are fine at 35.

Yep 18"s. Although the winters have gone on tonight. Bit of a bummer though, both rear bearings have gone!

This is normal and nothing to do with the engine. If you park your car up and put it in P then foot off the brake until it rolls to a stop then handbrake up you will feel the transmission vibrating next time you start up. Try parking up, handbrake up, then put it in park. you will not feel the vibration on your next start up. I can replicate this vibraton every time if I do the first point above.

I never said I would use more oil. Just to consider the risk your willing to take. As I say it shouldn't be a problem. Iv also had mine for 6 months or so and all is well

I think this back pressure change would only be significant if you went for a full decat. The cat being where most of the back pressure would come from. As said above, older cars with carbs or 2 stokes are much much more sensitive to changes in back pressure. The removal of the resonator is going to reduce pressure by a max of a psi or so at the turbo. If this causes oil seals to give up they would be a worry on stock setup. But not that you can tell anyway. If your car does use oil - and be true to yourself, don't do it. Purely for the sake of it possibly amplifying the problem of oil use. If it doesn't, go for it. Maybe do what I did so you can put it back to standard when you need?

Why don't you swap the existing injectors around then re-do the scan to see if the error follows the change in position of injector - process of elimination. You need to eliminate possible causes not replace things - you may fit different injectors thinking there working when they may not be but your none the wiser and go off looking for something else. You need someone to do a full diagnostics, even get someone to do some fuel logs and post the full report up on here. Dont rely on what your skoda dealership is telling you as you dont seem to be particularly clued up of VAG codes or diagnostics so the wool can be pulled over your eyes easily - not your fault but the money makers at skoda. I am cringing reading over some of the post here. START SIMPLE AND WORK UP not the other way round. if you have a flat tyre would you go and replace all your wheels and tyres or check for a puncture first...............................

Iv wanted to do this too. But iv been put of by the thought that the intake vacuum won't be their to draw the oil out the breather....is there a decent baffled catch can out there as this could be plumbed back into the intake which would still give the surely needed suck?

Can I just get me smug face out They are coming off soon as the winters are going on. The Mrs keeps complaining of to much wheelspin!

Sorry dude-they were a steal! You'll loose all your stealth appeal though!

That's all iv got for now. They came off a blackey vrs hatch and they looked too big Imo. It rides better than before but this may be down to the tyres. Not had any rubbing either.

Oz Superturismo gt. 18 inch 41 offset 8 inch wide on 215 35s. Not much more to say

I swapped the gigaros for these. Sorry shark, I thought I got lucky with these! A nice set of wheels. The difference in ofset is the equivalent of 18 mm spacers all round so it looks wide on the front. Another just washed pic.

New shoes sir!

Same problems just started for me with an intermittent blub warning light. Haven't been able to find a dodge light yet though? Maybe it is the leds?

Ditto this apart from the bouncing isn't a problem. Tyre pressures? Just swapped to some 18" 215 35 and an inch wider rim.

Would you be interested in swapping for black gigaros with pirelli p zeros with a good amount of tread left? Im down London way tomorrow evening.

Just thought id share my experience on the new bush iv fitted to the Vrs. I went to Awesome GTI last weekend to get Cruise Control fitted, it was a 3 hour job but passed the time by watching the F1. After it was fitted i asked the chaps about the lower engine mount. Now im getting 200bhp iv noticed at some points in the rev range when changing gear, it felt like there was too much rock, maybe better described as damping from the engine and it wasnt as crisp a change as i wanted. I mentioned the Vibratechnics complete lower mount, they had it in stock but for me the price was far too steep - over £100. I asked what they had in the way of superpro or powerflex bushes, immediately they both told me to steer clear of the superpro bushes (i didnt ask why), i said i didn't want to feel too much vibration in the cabin so they pointed me to this: http://www.awesomegti.com/brand/powerflex/powerflex-bush-pff85-620r-68312 Its advertised for the diesel, as i guess its a bit softer then the petrol version so this seemed to be a good shout. Briskoda discount later and i walked away £25 down but with a shiny red chunk of rubber. Fitted it later that day (after relishing in using the CC from Manchester to Derby) Its a very very easy job, and took about 45mins. I cut the old one out and used my vice to press the new bush in and bolted it back on. Verdict - Chuffed. The sag/rock/damping during high RPM gear changes has all but gone, there's a very slight amount of vibration through the peddles now but its barely noticeable and the feedback in throttle input is much improved. Overall, for £25 i dont think you could find a better mod for the money. I guide on fitting can be put up if anyone wants (i like taking pics along the way during mods) Cheers, Sam

Halford had/have a bogof offer on their 100% xenon bulbs. They say you get 120% more light from em. These are filament bulbs and not hids. 21 quid for my 2 h7 bulbs. What I wrong with the hids btw?

I found the best method was the deadening mats. There the ally foil backed 4 mm thick ones. Then a layer of of the 12pm acoustic closed cell foam. I initial did it with carpet indetlay then when I was happy with the results, redid the whole car in the closed cell foam to get the best results I could. The biggest improvement I found was doing the boot and the outside skins of the door panels. I'm not sure where you are in the UK but I'm in Derby so I could show you what I've do e and how I did it

Do a search for it mate. Vrs soundproofing. I spent a few days pulling the interior out and did the full car. A side effect to doing it for me was a definite improvement on sound quality.

Could be a simple boost leak. A quick check of the pipework may give you an idea.

Surely the reduction in heat provided by a better intercooler will mean the ecu alters things to maintain a set of predefined limits meaning it will try and still produce as close as it can to 180ps? Is this not why a stage 2 is developed to make full use of the cooler air provided. Ie if you run your car on a dyno at 30 degree outside temp then again with a outside temp of -10. This difference of 40 degrees is catered for by the ecu so maybe a variation in bhp of around 5 max?

Is that red vinyl for the lower grill strip? I kinda like it for its different.

Clear gloss vinyl wrap does the job for me. 3m stuff is the best and much cheaper than the skoda accessories. Ebay search 'clear vinyl'. Hope this helps