Mercurial

From what I read about (and experienced for the last 7 years) the ASV, it is reliable, Id thought you might have had a different engine/fuel type or higher mileage, but 185k doesn't seem out of the ordinary to have problems for an ASV, (but I'm no expert). I didn't think you were going to say ASV. I haven't had any problems with mine, and reading up it, that doesn't seem unusual. I even thought of getting a newer Mk1 and keeping my current engine as a donor in case a replacement cars engine had a problem, but I don't have time or space for that now. Maybe the oil loss is particular to a previous owners maintenance or usage? I cant say what would cure it.

What engine code/version/type is it? Ive a Diesel ASV and other than annual oil changes, I have never needed to top up oil until recently, even then it was slight. When I got the car it had a bout 78-79k miles on it and Ie put a further 60k miles on it, which I still consider low. Whats the mileage on the car? how much are you doing every week?

Did the job, think I need to put the cardboard in or maybe some other material would be better? a small piece of metal?, with one its ok, but when both are open it rotates downwards, I did a bit of cutting and filing to het it to fit so I think I need to put some piece of plastic and a screw to put pressure on the upper surface

I looked, there are a lot of Deans, any particular one?

Been a while since this thread was started, exactly what I'm looking for though. What kind of mods need to be done to the cup holder mechanism, bit of filing? does the radio slot into the new slot ok? Why was it necessary to move the radio down? preference? I had a look at mine and it seems like it might work with available space in the existing slot. and finally, what of the narrower storage slot? did that come with the parts you bought? or seperately?

Its in the Republic of Ireland, thanks for the replies. I might get myself in a quandry if I name them as I havent ruled out following it up, but I need to get my skates on as I was busy and got sidetracked, but a Skoda main dealer anyway. The brakes were ineffective, I wasn't expecting them to be ineffective although they went on about them so much I was suspicious they did it intentionally, they may have done it accidentally, I just dont know, they felt much worse at the time, a lot more effort was required to have a lot less effect, to the extent I got one hell of a fright when I got onto the road from their carpark. The feel was completely different but also it seemed like they were not braking the car as if there was oil between the pads and discs, completely different when it was reconnected. I dont think the ABS was working either or didn't seem to work, but it probably wouldn't as the brakes simply weren't able to reduce the rotational speed of the wheels enough for it to kick in. If for some reason I stab at the brakes (which Ive done to test on a clear road) you can feel the ABS kick in, no matter how hard or urgently I pressed the brakes they simply wouldnt do this until I located the disconnected vac line and reconnected it. When I say this, with the leak (a disconnected vacuum line), there was still sufficient vacuum to operate the brakes if you pressed once and kept it there, once you released and tried to repress the brakes, there felt like there was nothing, ie no braking effort, they tried to tell me it wasnt normal to release the brakes on a car with ABS, when I asked about stop go traffic or in the event you needed to operate the brakes and released but suddenly or soon after needed braking, what were you to do, they insisited on saying braking and taking the foot off and pressing the brakes on a car with ABS is not normal?? complete and utter bollrocks, now Im not talking about someone who keeps having to dab the brakes as they drive down the motorway, but if you need to use them more than once in a short space of time.

I had a timing belt done on my car, and ended up with an unrelated problem. I just have to fill in the story to get to the question I need to ask, When I was rang to say the job was done, I said ok, be there in 45 minutes, they said, oh but theres some other things we need to tell you? I said Id talk to them when I got there, they suggested I needed more work done. They made a list of work they claim needed to be done, some of which I was aware and intended to follow up. They mainly said the brakes were faulty, which I knew they were fine besides needing front pads which I wasnt going to get a main dealer to do. When I took the car away, the brakes were about 90% ineffective and I had to be very cautious as I drove home. I figured out that pressing the brakes more than once, as you might in stop go traffic made them ineffective, but pressing once (which isnt nessesarily practical in stop go situations) prevented them from failing almost completely. I rang the dealer the next day and they basically told me they wouldnt do anything for me, I figured this was because I refuted their claims of what other work was needed, so I had to start tracing the problem myself, as their receipt had all sorts on it besides the job that was paid for , I looked at what they might have done and searched online for information about what might be the problem, they mentioned a bad caliper but the car had passed an MOT (equivalent) recently, I checked all the brake line in case they had opened a brake line, and eventually I decided the vacuum was the problem due to how the brakes worked/didnt work. Eventually I got the information I needed which was a schematic off a SEAT web forum for my engine type for the vacuum system, as the Haynes had me a little preplexed, upon checking the vac tubes I found two vacuum lines completely disconnected. I managed to force the dealer to talk to me by telling them I recorded them saying they were not going to help me, so in a meeting the admitted they got the timing belt in by lowering the engine using a jack on a sump, when I asked was this in a Skoda manual, they declined to say yes or no? I located a manual online which shows a supporting frame being used and no mention of the engine being lowered (but actually being raised to remove the mounting bolts), now I dont mind if they lowered it but I checked the tubes and movement of that much would pull the tubing out, which they never realised or bothered to check. They ended up getting a report done by someone else on the brakes which said there was no difference between braking with the vacuum tubes plugged in and plugged out??? but they denied they could have even caused them to come undone, even though I offered them to recreate this scenario or test drive the car with them plugged in and out, all of which they declined. Im lucky nothing worse came of it and I had some experience to check these things, but am I right in saying, the report saying the brakes are no different with a disconnected vacuum is utter nonesense, I know it is in my cars case, but all cars as far as Im aware have a servo assist with vacuum, the brakes would be less useful or even useless without it. I cant see how the person that did the report could stand over this as Im planning to take them to a small claims court, I dont expect any financial reward from it, but I may be awarded at most the cost of what I paid, maybe, but if thats the case it would only cover me as I'll probably have to get an independant assesment myself to counter them in a court. So vacuum disconnected? if it was the same why bother design it into the car or most cars ever???

Right, where to start 1.9 Tdi, Octavia I, 110bhp, think its pre dpf, 2001. I've a bit of a problem and I want to do some maintenance and looking for advice. I did a search based on what the main issue is, and I've been reading the forum yesterday and plenty of topics and links and a few other forums to get a start and Ive picked up a bit, but Ive read so much, I'm unsure where to start, but a few ideas what might be the problem/s. Basically, when you put the foot down, there is no power, Ive read this elsewhere and from all the other topics started by other members, It looks like I could have a stuck or sticking VNT?? (variable nozzle turbine?, is that correct description?) I cant operate the servo for the turbo as I cant find it, but thats just from looking without taking covers off. Ive come across the MAF and MAP sensors during reading, but havent located them in the engine bay, although it seems obvious where the MAF is and the MAP, not sure if they are a problem as of yet, a very quick scan of the hoses from above and tubing looks like no problem but really needs a very detailed examination. My economy was pretty good until the last full tank, but on a few instances I put the foot down there, normally I take it handy and not doing much miles, while I want to give it welly, Im not keen till I sort out some other things sorted, need to get around to an oil and filter change urgently, find out when the timing needs to be done, which concerns me for really driving it hard. I've looked up doing the timing, but Im more inclined to get it done, as I only have car since last year, I dotn want to make things worse than I have by delaying doing some really important stuff, fingers crossed, ist not consuming oil, get my asus in gear and do that change in the next few days. Im thinking of disconnecting the MAF and maybe based on advice, cleaning it? if there is no difference then it might rule out a problem till I get a VAG connection. What can I clean it with (IPA Ive read, or maybe diesel?) and is it based on if it looks dirty inside? I have read not to touch the sensor wire, but have read where people say they cleaned it with a cue tip? I thought you might not be able to mark it at all?? and just spray it with a mild solvent till it was clean? Next question, what kind of diagnostic software can I get? is it vcds or vag com? found a website (ross tech) and was told by someone to not register if I got a cable, but not sure if it was for a cable from there or ebay they meant) I want to replace the oil pickup strainer and have read its the same part as a petrol engine model, but also to do the turbo banjo and oil supply line. I read some where the banjo bolt was an essential item to do, but cant find it now. Is the oil line an essential, seems if its intact it could stay put, if I did the supply, Id probably do the return too. whats the opinion on this? I may end up having to clean the turbo. if I can locate the actuator and check to see if it operates or not at all, it doesnt look like a terrible job, just getting the bits off to access and remove it looks like it could be the worse part of that job. But I prefer to locate the problem before doing anywork. If I need to clean it, what to use? diesel or some other propriety cleaner or some specific turbo cleaner. I also want to check all the piping to the intercooler and air lines and vac lines are sound. If I have the turbo out, can I bypass it and still run the car?? or is it just going to require piping that arent available (I dont have any VAG spares laying about), might that do damage? from reading, it seems like its the N95 or is it N97 that operates the variable vanes on the turbo, (with the MAF and MAP as inputs giving details back to the computer as control)

As a matter of interest, the setup shows a filter(in the made up kit) in one of the lines, but when its at the vehicle, you cant see which fuel line feeds the filter(in the made up kit) so I suppose one of the two fuel lines going to the engine is actually a return line? I'd guess its the one to the control valve as I expect the other line supplies the dieselto the fuel pump, Ive had a quick scan of the haynes but cant see a descritption of the filter setup or what exactly the control valve at the fuel filter(of the vehicle) does? or which direction fuel is going? Interesting all the same, haven't seen the liquid moly can,is there any particular ratio mix or just bung it in a jar that looks about 2-3litres? I might do this but Ive really a few other things I want to do first, I prefer doing certain jobs one at a time in case it throws a problem, then I know where the fault is. I'll keep an eye out next time Im in a motor factors for the liquid moly stuff asnd do a quick google, only concern is it m ight loosen something off that may have been better off captive somewhere??

Where's the Pink modified pipework? edit, not that Im being pedantic, Im beginning to look under the bonnet and from reading up, Im thinking of renewing some items piece by piece, vacuum hoses being one if they look poor, breather lines, cooling hoses and air supply hoses. Thats why Im wondering what the modded pipework is? Any pointers on a good online place to get some tidy looking hoses/lines for the above. I was looking on youtube yesterday after reviewing a load of posts here and saw some guy had some yellow vac lines, and some blue tubing, but couldnt make out what that was for. Colour of the stuff isn't something I'm after, preferably not too garish, but seperate colurs to identify (for me at the moment) might be handy.

I'd heard of Briskoda before and had a look around, as I got a mk1 TDi during the year, decided to sign in to see if I can get some pointers.