Wonky

This is the opposite side to your picture, it looks like the piston on one side of your cylinder has popped out, perhaps when you pressed the brake pedal? Never press the brake pedal with the drum removed. You will need to lift up the wedge in picture to allow the shoes to return and also reinsert the piston to the cylinder. Probably need to bleed the brake on that drum too.

It’s certainly looks well worn. Straightforward to change, you are supposed to fit new bolts when you replace the wishbones. The Mk 2 is different to the Mk1 wishbone.

Perhaps a good clean with a wire brush might clear the threads prior to applying penetrating oil. However, it might be wise to just replace them as I think some wear will be present.

Before you buy anything, check the wiring between the door and A pillar in the bellows for broken wires.

Definitely wrong, as above, even used the old bolts too.

The “coupling rod” (item 7 ) is a drop link. It couples the anti-roll bar to the strut. With only one side of the vehicle raised from the ground the tension in the anti-roll bar will force the strut and hub assembly to move as you had released the lower ball joint. This will allow the strut/hub to move as you have described. Raising the other front wheel off the ground will stop this from happening.

I am guessing that you only have one side of the car off the ground maybe? If that is so the anti roll bar can cause what you describe I think.

I used: Errecom Evaporator Cleaner Foam, Air Conditioner Foam Cleaner, 400 mL Aerosol Can. From large online shopping site. I can definitely recommend it, the smell has gone and not returned so far. In fact I treated my wife’s friends polo with the same problem and she is happy too. The thin pipe takes a while to straighten otherwise it’s easy to use.

It does now, but was bone dry. I have used a foam cleaning aerosol as the musty smell was intolerable. New cabin filter fitted now too.

No it was just plain, no perforations evident at all. Nothing was removed from the pipe outlet, that’s as it was when I exposed the pipe.

Thanks Pete. Unfortunately there is no flap, however there is a bulge in the insulation and I can feel the pipe behind it. Guess I’ll have to cut my own.

Thank you Pete. That is a great help, thank you.

Hi folks. Does anyone know the location of the air conditioning evaporator drain hose exit point through the bodywork on a 2013 1.2TSI Fabia estate. I can not seem to locate it and no apparent water dripping beneath the car after air conditioning has been on for quite some time.

Just wondering if it is the usual wires in the door bellows issue.

Is it an electric mirror ?

I had this in a Mondeo years ago, drove me nuts until I found it. More of a squeak though so lubricant solved it.

If there was no wear warning light on prior to changing the pad, would it be possible to plug the old pads back in if you still have them to see what happens. Don’t have this system so not sure. Just a thought…

Peace and harmony restored! Glad you’re sorted. Someone else posted that they too had replaced the tensioner without removing top cover etc. I wasn’t sure if there was any risk of chain movement on the sprockets hence my approach. Good to know it’s not.

Unfortunately I did not record the measurements, I will be obvious when you remove the top cover I think. Yep, I just used it as you say to keep the chain against the sprocket. Incidentally, you will need new sealant too. Think I still have the type I used if you need more info.

I only removed the black plastic top cover. It was just the chain that was visible but my thinking was, keeping the chain tensioned would ensure it could not move off the sprockets.

My car is a CBZA 1.2 TSI 63Kw. I started to experience this rattle around 3 years ago. I changed the tensioner with the latest revision which is what it probably already had fitted, (2013) car and it’s been fine since then. I removed the top black plastic cover. Placed some microfibre cloth around the chain to prevent any sealant falling into the timing cover area whilst I removed the old sealant, then vacuumed the cloth area to remove silicone debris. Then made a wooden wedge which was placed between the chain and casing above the tensioner to maintain the chain tension and replaced the tensioner after priming it in fresh oil. Not sure if this was necessary but it is what I did. New sealant and job done. Only took approximately 45 minutes or so.

Thanks for your reply, I read that earlier too. I removed the sensor and checked for wiring faults , leaks etc. On replacing and reconnecting the plugs, the light is now out and fault codes have disappeared. I guess I’ll just have to see what happens in the next few days.

Morning, this morning I have an engine management light on. Scanned with Carista which gave codes P0106 and 06361. P0106 I see relates to manifold pressure and MAP sensor but the 06361 I can not find information on. Not had an issue before the engine management light appeared this morning. Car was running fine. Tried resetting 06361, Carista reported “faults successfully reset but came back”. Is it possible to test the MAP sensor or is replacement the way forward? Fabia 2 1.2 TSI.