boneman

Well it looks pretty good, I take it your repair is filler and not welded or crack tested

I had a read through various threads eg. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/251003-headlight-removal-hid-fitting/page-1 http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264447-hid-aftermaket-kit-help-for-definitive-how-to/page-1?hl=+hid It seems the non canbus will be fine with VCDS coding. The canbus type with cancellers may well work ok but I don't want high value capacitors anywhere near my electronics and I guess you won't find them on an OEM xenon installations either.

These have been delivered http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270591725356#ht_4205wt_1018 and will be fitting soon, looking for velcro with self adhesive backing to fix ballast etc inside light housing. Will the lights work if I connect before getting VCDS coding sorted? Car: 2012 vRS TDi DSG

I had one fitted to my Scooby a few years ago. The ALK allows the front suspension to move more freely so on acceleration in corners the front tyres retain their grip and so reduce understeer. All this achieved by the change in the front suspension geometry. Many fit thicker rear antiroll bars to reduce understeer but surely all this does is reduce rear end grip. So why not reduce rear wheel camber instead?

worn suspension bushes?

Mine is same age as philbes. In town at 20, 30 or 40mph poodling along it changes into highest gear possible to run about at 1250rpm, I often change down a gear with flappy paddles to get above 1500rpm as engine is a lot smoother then. It runs quite coarsely at 1200-1500rpm and the airfilter assembly, which is attached to the engine, was shaking around and it's vibration could be heard in the car. This was sorted yesterday by dealer under warranty but car still feels coarse at these rpm. It would be interesting to hear other members observations. I also park on a slope and similarly reversing up is a bit delicate as can grab suddenly, can't go forward too far as will be driving thro garage door . I've also been caught out by DSG when in traffic and want to make a quick getaway at mini roundabouts when it takes a second or so to engage, this is it's worse attribute for me. Generally a smooth change up and down the box but I often overrride it in town.

My car was in with main dealers today to resolve the annoying low frequency vibration/rumble from engine region. That had been identified as a loose airfilter assembly and today it was fixed by installation od black felt in all joints of the various components. It's all a lot more secure now and doesn't shake, rattle and roll. This has cured the problem when revving engine in neutral and reduced it when driving but not eliminated it. Looks like another visit needed

64, bought oil burner DSG 2 wks ago. Wanted an economical, stylish car, with a bit of poke, for longer journeys. It feels like a car which needs a bit more refining in a few areas though.

Is that chassis a Reliant Scimitar? I had one many moons ago, it was GT4B I think, 2 door Coupe 3l v6. 120mph in that was like breaking the sound barrier. Hope you pinned the brass feed pipe on carb. Think I rebuit most mechanical bits in the two years I had it. What great torque from the V6, the nearest I've been to that in recent years was the Vectra 2.6 V6 so much better to drive than these modern day turbos.

I'm having exactly this issue too, it makes town driving really irritating, I've begun thiking of the words "vibrating heap". Skoda have pinpointed the airfilter assembly doing a shake, rattle and roll at 1000-1500rpm. They're hopefully fixing it wed under warranty. I was suprised how much the engine vibrates at this rev range when you observe it under the bonnet and it seems really dumb designing an engine with a heavy vibration band to coincide with the town driving. If these CR's are supposed to be smooth the PD must have been hell.

Went to Skoda dealers today and technician thinks vibration is caused by the airfilter assembly rattling around at 1000-1500rpm. It sure does. He checked it and then I checked it too and when you hold the airfilter bits and stop them rattling as the engine shakes it does quieten the noise and vibration. It's going in wed to be sorted under warranty, apparently this isn't unusual. Also getting them to check headlamp alignment as this car not old enough for MOT.

It does same in 4th too at about 30mph same rev range 1200-1500rpm poodling along, it does feel as if something out of balance and engine labouring a bit at these rpm but auto selects the gear, if I manually change down gear to bring rpm up above 1500 it smooths out and engine feels happier. I'll test it in higher gears too as you say but I will go back to supplying dealer, Evans Halshaw, only had car 10dys. also back to Skoda dealer as car is within manufacturing warranty, I'll get technician to drive car with me too. If possible i'll compare with same elsewhere. When it's at idle you can feel how lumpy the engine is too I just don't know if it's typical for these engines, maybe someone does.

I'm noticing a rough engine vibration betweem 1200 and 1500rpm, noticeable most while driving in D3 at 20mph and also in neutral. Should I get it checked at dealer or is this typical for these diesels?

Had a tweak at the headlamp adjusting today as above, car is MY12. Adjusting screw A shifts high beam up and down ok, however the 2 adjusting screws B and C near the rear of the light unit only seem to adjust the dip beam up and down but not left and right, am I missing something here? Also is there provision for adjusting high beam left and right?

Forgot to mention had four wheel alignment done at Wheels in Motion today. Not much to correct. Rear camber ok @ -1deg 20min, toe set to +8min each side was 2min and 9min. Good to see these cars have plenty of front caster left 7deg 25min, right 6deg 55min and hence not loads of camber at -0.35/40min. Has any one reduced the rear camber below 1deg 20min to stand the wheels up more and whether this affected the handling adversely?

I've been reading posts on HID's retrofit and it seems fairly straightforward and very cheap, the tricky bit being finding someone to do the digital coding. I see there is no need to get the CANBUS versions of HID's. Has anyone done the main beam too. As you may have noticed my other car is Subaru Impreza, which I converted to HID's about six yrs ago and the results "brilliant", main beam like daylight, no problem with passing MOT's, same old chat about legality on the Scooby forums as here. I keep the lights adjusted low in traffic and crank up a bit when in the clear, never been flashed, so I anticipate similar with vRS. It's good to see the ballast boxes are a lot smaller these days so easier to locate. Do OEM dip ballasts fit inside the light housing? Thanks for all advice so far.

Thanks that's very useful info now I can tweek it a bit, the dip beam is dire as it is.

After some night time driving I think the lights need some attention. Does anyone know if its possible to adjust the low and high beams individually as I find the main beam too high when dip beam is lifted up to an acceptable level. regards

Hi, collected my 2012 vRS this week but Evans Halshaw had "lost" the floor mats. After some discussion they have agreed to supply a set of mats and I want to make sure I get the correct ones for the 2012 vRS. Can anyone tell me what the appearance of these mats regarding fixing, colour, binding, logos etc. should be. They have one set which only have "Octavia" on them. All I can remember of the set that were in the boot when I first viewed the car was they were black with a light binding around the edge. Thanks

racing car downforce, allows more lateral force when cornering, friction is a constant, hence lateral force before overcoming friction is proportional to downforce. have look thro some A lvl textbooks, my daughter did mechanics last year, it was torture trying to get my head around friction on an inclined plane etc thank god for youtube.

This forum is exactly what's wrong with this country. Lots of talk, no action but what could you do, shout at the TV when questiontime is on? The houses of parliament, best club in the country, lots of perks no responsibility. When the Scotland become independant and not in the EU what's going to happen to the Scots living in England, will they be deported? Gordon ******* Brown!!! Bought all those bank shares at massively inflated prices with our money, we should be getting dividends now. And another thing, tax all Chinese imports to rebalance this twisted global economy.

New owner of 62 reg Octavia vRS Tdi DSG Race Blue. I’ve just collected a 62 plate from Evans Halshaw in Hemel Hempstead after rejecting it first time due to road noise on the A41. Following my query on road noise I was about to buy a 60 reg vRS with Columbus sat nav, full leather and xenons from Letchworth dealer because of it’s spec and it was quiet on the motorway but I’ve had a lucky escape. The dealer had agreed to respray the bonnet/wings as we had noticed a lot of stone chips on our first look. Went back for a further inspection following a “valet” of the car. It was bright and sunny and the car looked ****** awful. Stone chips all over including the roof, scratched windscreen and drivers window etc. And the tyres were conti winter M&S. End of. Reflecting on the immaculate one at Hemel, we headed for another look. Did another drive on M25 and M1 and it was like a different car this time, hardly any road noise. Job done and very good price, they had just reduced by £400 since my first test. No sat nav, or xenons but it feels like a new car, got the carbon effect black trim inside which I really like. Just want the retrofit sat nav now

Today I drove a manual, petrol Octavia vRS. It went like very well with a good pull from low revs and accelerated hard up to high speeds. I think it would leave a diesel in the dust, or spray this time of year. Good gearchange and easy to drive but mpg less than 30, but it does seem to want to be driven more than the oil burner does. The road noise from the back was clearly present and as I had just test driven a Jetta on same route which was quiet and unobtrusive the vRS seemed a bit irritating, this one fitted with Bontinentals on the rear. The tech at the dealers carefully explained, with the help of a sketch, the noise was generated by the rear wheels riding on the inside treads due to the negative camber, followed by must choose the right tyres eg winter rubber and he bet he could get the noise down! When I asked about reducing negative camber, apparently its not possible due to design and anyway would get too much oversteer and be sideways at each corner. So is only the rear toe adjustable? So if the Jetta and vRS were the choice, to drive either for 200mls on motorway I'd pick vRS and ear defenders. I'll keep testing.

Test drove another one a couple of days ago and feeling a bit happier. This one similar but with "Bontinentals" fitted all round. This was a lot better for noise although on a different mway, this time A1. So the search is back on as the one I drove is earmarked for a n other. Been phoning around all the main dealers to try and get one with a good spec. Q. Does the DSG change quicker when you're accelerating hard compared to town driving?

I just spoken to a Skoda uk customer service manageress regarding the tyre noise on my test drive and asked if Skoda could comment on this and perhaps give some advice. The response was " yes we have had one or two calls but it's not an issue" to which I replied just google "Octavia vRS road noise" and read all the forum comments and magazine reviews, then you will see the problem. I also spoke to tech/sales guy in Lancaster Skoda Milton Keynes as I was there last week. His response was "the road noise is a feature of the Octavia vRS and also with the lower spec models eg Elegance which have smaller dia wheels and bigger profile tyres". The Superb based on a stretched Passat platform does not suffer the same woes, allegedly. I'm really disappointed. Seven years ago I bought a Subaru Impreza WRX STi WR1 315 bhp special edition, which I still have. Imprezas are not quiet cars but the performance is great 0-60 4.25s, fuel economy a joke, hence my search for another car. I fitted the noisekiller soundproofing under the rear seat and boot floor and all the sticky bits in the sparewheel well. result minor improvement. The noise is from the std exhaust which is a bit boomy at low speeds but a lot better at 80 on the mways. Interestingly the tyre noise in the vRS is a lot worse than the Scooby with the same size tyres 225/40/18 extra load side walls. I'm running Vredestein Ultrac sessantas which have a hardish sidewall and you feel the ripples in the roads unlike previous Pirelli PZero Rossos but its so subjective. The impreza also requires regular 4 wheel geometry setup for front and rear camber and toe and you can chose your own settings for your driving requirements. This has never caused the rear 50p tyrewear or affected road noise in the slightest, its a handling thing. and does make a big difference. Well I've rambled a bit too much, was hoping the vRS would be my ideal all round car. I'm still going the oil burner route for my next car but know I need to look elsewhere.