amk2vr6
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Posts posted by amk2vr6
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There are fitting instructions on elsa. I don't have access to them currently so can't help there I'm afraid. You will need to remove box to do the job properly mate I'm afraid. I would look at changing the sender ring at the same time if I'm honest buddy.
It is strange but the symptoms all point towards it, plus the man hours you have spent ruling the other stuff out, try the maf just on the off chance but then look to change sender and sensor next.
Dale
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****ing Mission! lol. Looks like Ill be renting a ramp. Dont mind doing 5 speeds on my back, but nothing 6 speed or DSG!
I think I will change the sensor first... from research it isn't that hard to do once you move the oil cooler.
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That pump draw seems ok and the fact that it is steady is good as an intermittent misfire would mean the pump draw would be all over the place for that to be the cause....
The most crude and simple way of ruling out the maf sensor is disconnect and drive it, see if the symptoms go. This forces the engine to run in a fail safe or worst case scenario. Which is far better than a fluctuating maf input.
I do think the issue here is crank sensor circuit. Be it the sensor or wiring harness. They aren't a nice job at all though, so take time doing it and follow the bulletin regards fitting and timing if you can get it. Not a job I've ever enjoyed. Don't do it twice [emoji58]
I hope I've been a help, kudos for doing it in a logical process bud.
Dale
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Thanks mate.
I promised myself I wouldn't throw money at this without knowing whats up. I've done that so many times in the past.
Where is the bulletin, do you have a link? Is it a VW issued TSB? Hope I can get to it without taking the box off, and it is the sensor not the sender ring!!!!
Quite strange it hasn't thrown a code, and the RPM reading never fluctuates either.
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Low pressure pump diagnosis is very straightforward, take out fuel pump fuse, run multimeter in series switched to amps, looking for around 7 Amps of draw constant. Low draw, faulty wiring, pump impeller broken, low fuel level. High draw, seized pump, short circuit in wiring
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Well, I took a reading from the fuel pump fuse...
4.46A / 4.47A at idle constantly. What does this tell me then?
I have noticed you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on. I thought they were normally pretty much silent?
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Values are still coming in and out.
And what I've noticed and you can almost see in the following video is the interior lights and dash lights dim when you prod the throttle. I thought that was a bit strange.
You can also see the injector values coming in and out. Sometimes injector 3 is OK.
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slight misfire at idle, then not starting properly to would not idle to CEL and Glow lights.
John
Similar but not the same as my symptoms. I will have a look at the loom, and see if there is some way to check the Crank Sensor too.
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Not sure this will help, but I had a fault on mine that was diagnosed to the speed sensor, this was changed but made no difference. They then found that the loom that connects to the sensor goes round a sharp bend in the engine bay and with the rocking of the engine had chaffed through the loom causing an intermittent problem. Not sure where this bend is but that was the problem.
John
Thanks for the input. Can I ask what where your symptoms?
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Can anyone confirm the following part numbers will fit a 2007 Octavia VRS Hatch:
1ST853601AAUL
5JO853621A -
Looking at the tech doc: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_316.pdf
It says:
In emergency running mode:
- Engine speed is limited to between 3200 rpm and 3500 rpm
- Quantity of injection is restricted
- Starting takes slightly longer
Funnily enough a couple of times the revs have been limited to 3200rpm ish.
And it also mentions that cylinder 3 is used to work out TDC in order to work out where the rocker arm is in relation to the crank. Cylinder 3 is the suspect cylinder here!
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Hi Turbobell, thanks again for your input!
I mean that on these engines, cam and crank sensor deviation can cause all sorts of issues, the crank seal is part of engine timing. Disconnect cam sensor and see if it runs any better. Whenever I have had a crank sensor issue with this engine regarding running faults, it doesn't flag a code, but hard starting, over fuel, misfire and cut outs can all be symptoms. Remember that a cutout is a total starvation of one of the three key ingredients for diesel combustion.
Air, fuel, compression.
Obviously compression will be a relative constant, so this would probably not be the cause of an intermittent fault.
Air, aside from the usual throttle flap, intake flap, or erg issues which I see you've already resolved, the only other thing I would suggest is a thorough check on vacuum hoses.
Fuel, looking at the video mate, I really do think engine timing either mechanical or sensor is incorrect. This will result in incorrect signal to injectors, incorrect on time etc..
Also, at different temps, throttle loads, you may find the engine will be switching constantly between open and closed loop operation, this will probably be masking some of the issues in different conditions under road test. Would also explain why it runs great for a while until warm.
Just an oddball mate, haven't spotted wether you've done any maf diagnosis?
Hope any of that helps, Dale
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkHow do I diagnose the MAF? It reads around 480g/st at idle, but I've currently got the EGR blocked off so from my research this is about right. I have also disconnected the MAF and it is the same.I have disconnected the Cam sensor and it made no difference although I only ran it for a short while.A faulty Crank sensor is a possibility though. The reading could be fluctuating, and I know when they dont work the TDI engine wont start. It's the cam sensor that is used to check the position of the injectors to speed up the starting process and then as far as I am aware it isn't used while running. Is there any way of testing the Crank sensor or is it fit new and hope. I have heard they are a pig to change.I have found this about the crank sensor -"The signal from the engine speed sender allows the engine control unit to determine the speed of the engine and the exact position of the crankshaft. With this information, the quantity of injection and start of injection are calculated."Low pressure pump diagnosis is very straightforward, take out fuel pump fuse, run multimeter in series switched to amps, looking for around 7 Amps of draw constant. Low draw, faulty wiring, pump impeller broken, low fuel level. High draw, seized pump, short circuit in wiring
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI will go out and check this in a moment.
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Thanks for the reply.
My friend thinks it's an electronic problem the way it comes and goes.
Fuel pump is a possibility, do you know how to test?
And no mate, I'm not sure that the loom is working correctly either. I need to test that too, and if poss check resistance all the way back to the ECU. Do you know where I can find a pin out?
Thanks again for your help.
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A quick write up on todays antics... you'll have to bear with me its a long post. I thought I had solved it, but NO! Im not that lucky.
First port of call was off with the Cam cover, and rocker assembly. (note the missing plunger - I pulled it out and it dropped down in to the engine bay around the steering rack. Whoops)
Inspect cams and rockers the best I can without removing any more to see everything looks ok.
Plungers and rocker tips look a bit worn, but these wern't very well adjusted, so it could have been that.
Remove Injector 3. (suspect injector postively deviating) Check hole to see if ovalled and it looks ok to me.
While I was messing around, I noticed how strange the DPF delete looks!! It looks to be a two piece pipe shaped in an X. Any ideas if this is a homebrew or off the shelf bit of kit?
You can just about make out the bottom of it in these pics -
Injector 3. Some damage to side of piezo stack, and O-Ring with a couple of nicks. Was the correct part number of 03G130073T. Also replaced with one of 3 spares that came with the car.
When I was removing the injector I noticed I could rock it back and forth a bit before I had even tried to remove the bolts. I then found the bolts weren't even that tight in comparison to the others. And one of the bolts on injector 4 was chewed up indicating the bolts had been removed and reused a few times before.
I put it back together paying attention not to overtighten the bolts. I didn't use a torque wrench or follow settings, but used my hand to get it just right. Last thing I wanted was to snap either of them!!
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Got it all back together, and after a few seconds cranking to get fuel back into the rail it fired into life and ticked over perfectly smooth and quiet!! I revved it up and it returned to idle without a hiccup.
I then scanned it again and got everything showing in spec.
It immediately started at this -
And after a second or two settled down to these values -
I thought I had sorted it!!
I then turned off the engine, phoned my mate and told him the good news. Went inside and made a cuppa etc. Come back out 15 mins later to start it up and it started misfiring and smoking!!! Bloody thing haha...
I then checked measuring blocks again and the deviation for cylinder 3 started to go out.
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Ok so...
There seems to be a sort of pattern to what happens.
The Blueish tinted smoke comes and goes. It also stinks of unburnt diesel at times, but this also comes and goes, and isn't always when it smokes. The injector deviation on cylinder three comes and goes. It is at its worst when it creeps up to and beyond 2mg/stroke, however this has nothing to do with the smoke. This can be made to happen by either just lightly prodding the accelerator so that it just blips the throttle a tiny bit, it will then stutter for a few seconds before going back to normal, OR you can make it happen by loading the engine at idle by dipping the clutch with your foot on the break as this video shows -
Yesterday when it cut out it was showing cylinder 1 injector and glow plug fault, however it is injector 3 showing as the culprit reading the measuring blocks.
This video is my mate taking it for a test drive (he has trade insurance). Not brilliant, but if you turn your speakers up you can just about hear it. Flat like turbo lag until about 2000rpm. Then a massive judder and shake upto about 3000rpm, then smooth power to the redline.
What to test next chaps??
Thanks for sticking with me here.
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No I haven't yet. I've got a cheap compression tester, but not sure how to do it on the 16v engine as glow plugs are inside cam cover.
What do you mean by constant synchronisation? Surely its a constant unless belt slips? -
Looks great.
Think the New style Skoda badge would match that a treat
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Cheers chaps. Nice to see some faces, it was getting awfully quiet in here!
Feel free to pop by and just give me morale!
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice though... I think next port of call is to check injector loom. Does anyone have an ECU pinout diagram?
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Just been down to the car to see if it would start (yes at this time of the night!)
Nope. Nothing. It cranks and cranks but wont fire.
Scanned with VCDS and I get the following -
Sunday,04,May,2014,00:21:25:32264 VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3 Data version: 20120401 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-018-BMN.clb Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 018 EL HW: 03G 906 018 EL Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l PPD1.2 G 9953 Software Coding: 0000072 Work Shop Code: WSC 25014 551 00000 VCID: 73EFC11512AE091 2 Faults Found: 005734 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240) P1666 - 006 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 236323 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 09:03:03 Freeze Frame: RPM: 832 /min Torque: 80.0 Nm Speed: 0.0 km/h Battery Volts: 222.2 V Battery Volts: 222.2 V Voltage: 4.61 V Temperature: 14.0°C 001649 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10) P0671 - 006 - Electrical Fault - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 236323 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 09:04:32 Freeze Frame: RPM: 768 /min Torque: 80.0 Nm Speed: 0.0 km/h 0.00 % Voltage: 13.45 V Bin. Bits: 10110000 Temperature: 22.0°C Readiness: N/AI then cleared the codes, and the bloody thing still wouldn't start. Its now staying in the culdesac at the start of our road until the morning.
Any ideas anyone?
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Got it all back together and started it up. It was misfiring worse than ever. A quick VCDS scan shows injector 1 voltage low. So I rechecked everything to notice where the wiring loom goes into the head the connector was half hanging out! I rotated it slightly and it chugged and just cut out.
I then unscrewed the connector, and pressed it back on firmly so it seated properly and took it for a spin. It drove so much better and the misfire had almost totally gone. Got to the bottom of the street to turn around and come back and it cut out and wouldn't restart!
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Started to take the inlet manifold off, and noticed the bolt that sits inside the EGR housing thats hidden away was missing!
I found this when I got the manifold off -
It looks to have been letting air in around cylinder 3?!?
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You can see the small amount of engine oil has risen to the top overnight.
Not a massive amount though. I have seen pics where the diesel is black!!
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I don't recall mine having the pointy 'wings' either side of the headrest - but just be I never noticed them. Too dark a nd damp to pop outi.side and check lol
I liked the two tone seats in my race blue Leary petrol - but think these add a much classier look to more sedate, darker dervs
They do have the pointy wings for sure.
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Does anyone know, am I safe to reuse the injector clamp bolts and rocker bolts when I'm swapping around injectors, or do I need to buy a new set every time!
£22 a pop just to swap injectors around. Then to find it doesn't work, and I want to try the spares I've got instead at another £22! lol
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Have you checked the Timing if you made it run better by adjusting 1 wheel it could be that the belt has jumped.
Thanks.
No I haven't yet. The car has done over 50k on this belt, so could do with changing really.
The only thing is surely the KW value would be miles out?
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Oh and I also blanked off EGR valve. No difference.
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One more thing is I have a small log of the main values here -
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aut99HzxTe_bdFBGdVEyQWNUM1Y0QkdIM1JaUHFIdkE&usp=sharing
The car has definitely been remapped as the ECU is asking for 2.5Bar of boost, and that works out at 21PSI! Although saying that, the specified and actual are actually quite close. Doubt there is a boost leak.
New Badges fitted with pictures
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
I take it then just the A suffix of the 621 part is the rear and uses the two lugs?