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Hi J.R. No need to apologize. Comments given in good faith are always valid and I appreciate you giving the time to give your input. I'm always willing to learn if someone has greater knowledge or experience than me. We have snow here currently so not relishing the thought of getting on my back outside to fit the bolts but need the car back on the road so have little choice. Hopefully the job will be a good un and will have added to my knowledge and understanding of the vehicle.

Hi J R The ARP bolts arrived and we're a different thread pitch so not suitable anyway. I bit the bullet and picked up the proper VW bolts from a main dealer. They are however also set screws so I am going to fit these and use a medium thread lock on the threads. I will keep an eye on them for the next few journeys to see that the bolts remain tight. With regard to the use of set screws instead of shouldered bolts I am thinking that the torque action on the joint is taken up by the interlocking pegs as per my rough hand drawn diagram above and these bolts maybe don't take the shear action as this is taken by the interlocking faces and maybe that is why VW use these bolts ? I don't profess to have the engineering knowledge so have to have faith in the fact that VW will have that covered in their design. Will find out over next few trips : ) Official VAG part number for bolts is N90846102 (that fit my skoda yeti 2012 )

Hi J.R. Going to wait until the bolts I have already ordered arrive and see what they look and fit like. If I am not happy with them then I will have no choice but to order the original bolts and pay the extortionate VAG group UK prices. What are your thoughts on a medium liquid thread lock when replacing the bolts ? I don't want to use a permanent thread locking liquid as the bolts may need to be removed at some point in the future for any clutch or gearbox repairs .. but medium thread lock should allow the bolts to be removed in the future but help stop any unwanted unscrewing of the bolts..... as has happened previously.

Hi Urrell The original bolts were also flanged so the new bolts should be the same. Can't believe some of the prices being quoted for the original VW bolts online. Fraction of the price in the US and Eastern Europe counties etc BUT ...there are significant postage delays. There is no reason why VAG group should be charging these prices in the UK. Typical VAG rip off UK again.

Hi JR Thanks very much for your reply. I bought these off ebay as they seemed to be a very high quality ( US company that manufactures high quality car parts to the competition racing industry ) If you think these are not suitable please do let me know and I will order direct from VW. Also your thoughts on using loctite on the threads ? Thanks very much.

Ps : Will probably put a spot of loctite on the tensile bolts when they get fitted to hopefully prevent the bolts falling out again.

Hi Yety Thanks very much for the input. Believe it or not ...either through perseverance or sheer good luck and not wanting to drop the exhaust and the propshaft to start at the gearbox end I had another go and I think I've got it sorted. The car is still up on axle stands with all 4 wheels in the air so yet to put it under any load on the road as I have used standard M10 bolts which I chopped down to diminising lengths to use the bolts as pullers to pull the joint together. Now thats the flanges are pulled together I need to order and fit the high tensile bolts needed one by one. As the car is in the air its possible in first gear to rotate the driveshaft by carefully lifting the clutch till each bolt becomes more easily accessible along the arch tunnel of the chassis making locating and tightening the bolts a lot easier when lying underneath the car. The process I used : Rotated the propshaft by hand and tried a few different options to mate up. Not sure if there is only one way all 3 holes line up correctly so tried a few different ways until one felt best when putting finger tips up between the mating flags. Located one bolt but used a bolt cut to 45mm to close the gap between the flanges taking great care not to cross thread. The 45mm bolt started to pull the flags together but eventually bottomed out on the casing behind. At this point it was taking the weight allowing a bit to locate in the second hole. I used a small 3/8 racket with 17mm socket to then locate and similarly pull in the second bolt till that also bottomed out behind. I then removed the first bolt and cut 5mm of it and put it back in and tightened it up but only till it took the weight. I removed the second bolt and also cut 5mm off it and replaced. I then used both bolts a few turns at a time on each to put the flange in as square as possible till they bottomed out the back of the holes of the gearbox flange. It was possible to feel the thread at the back. I repeated the above process cutting another 5mm off so the bolts were now approx 35mm and put the back in one at a time trying to pull the flange in square on. Once both bolts are in fully its possible to feel that the gap between the flanges has now gone. To get the ( impossible 3rd bolt) located my son started the car put into first and slowly lifted the clutch. It was then possible to watch the 3rd bolt hole rotate to the easy location spot. The 3rd bolt went in easy as the other 2 bolts had done all the work and could be accessed and tightened with a 17mm socket on long extension with ratchet along the bodywork tunnel. Using the car in gear to rotate the propshaft brought each bolt in turn to a position where it could be tightened easily. I then put the car in 4x4 mode and all wheels turned as they should. HAPPY DAYS ! Hopefully all I have to do now is wait from the proper spec tensile steel bolts ( 12 spline M10 x 30mm to arrive and fit them one by one using the engine to bring the bolts round to have easy access. Hopefully this will sort the problem. I hope maybe helps anyone else doing this job without having to remove the exhaust mid bearing and carrier and the back Haldex flange.

Hi Toot Thanks very much for that vid. Much appreciated. Unfortunately it doesn't show the refitting process of the propshaft at the gearbox end where I am having all the difficulties. I'm going to spend some time on youtube looking to see if I can find one of the refitting process to a Audi Q3/Tiguan etc as it is more likely to show those cars. If I find anything I will post it here. One thing I have found out is that each bolt has a raised locator ring around it which is acst into the gearbox flange. I think these m must be there to reinforce the union of the two flanges when all the torque is applied through the propshaft otherwise all the pressure with be on three M10 bolts. I think these are causing me problems as they are probably a snug fit and may have become damaged or burred as they bolts became loose and the propshaft shifted around out of alignment until all 3 bolts eventually fell out. Resided to the fact I am going to have to remove the propshaft completely to check these and check that the threads in the holes I am trying to locate have not been damaged. Hours of fun !...NOT Have attached a rough drawing which I 'THINK' is the set up on the clutch flange please excuse the drawing.

Hi guys...back again. New question on same thread. (For clarity : This is the FRONT propshaft end that locates onto the gearbox flange. and the propshaft is still connected to the car at the central bearing and the back haldex end.) As the front flange has rotated independently of the gearbox flange I'm wondering if the 3 bolt holes need to be in a particular orientation in order to locate as there seems to be something stopping the two flanges mating up to pull together. Vision and access is quite restricted due to the location and at this stage I'd rather not have to drop the propshaft completely if I can just get the 3 bolts back in and pull the two flanges together. My questions : Is there a central spigot shaft that needs to locate ? or Is there some sort of hidden peg that needs to locate in a certain orientation relative to each other to allow the two flanges to pull together ? PS : I have already put longer bolts in ( temporarily with the car stationary) to see if I can pull the two flanges together but if there is a spigot or peg that is not aligned properly then I could be doing some damage doing that. I guess the bolts are 30mm for a reason as there is limited space behind the gearbox flange and any longer bolts may protrude and may foul the gearbox casing when they rotate. (Photo to show bolt holes being discussed.) Any help or advice would be appreciated.

ok guys...intriguing development. It appears that all three M10 x 30mm bolts that hold the front flange of the propshaft to the gearbox have dropped out !!!! This has allowed the propshaft to drop off the gearbox. Not sure how the hell that has happened !! All I can think is that when the clutch slave cylinder that is inside the clutch housing was changed by a garage 3 years ago they forgot to torque up those bolts and they have subsequently loosened themselves as the propshaft was rotating. Hopefully replacing the bolts will sort it ? Would be far easier if I had a hoist but not such an easy job on the wet floor as locating the bolts in such a confined space is a bit of a challenge laying on my back and making sure I dont cross thread them. Has anyone else experienced the bolts falling out ?

Hi Guys Thanks for the answers. Much appreciated. So I have just jacked up one of the back wheels and got my son to turn one back wheel manually. This is turning the propshaft. It appears that the propshaft at the engine end is turning eliptically ( like an egg shaped rotation) so its not turning evenly which would support Kenny R's assessment that it is probably the front propshaft bearing that has totally failed. It is now pouring with rain again so I could not check any further to see if any other components will have failed or been damaged by the bearing failing. Any thoughts please on the likelihood of additional damage ? As soon as the weather improves I will get the front of the car jacked up/supported and get underneath it. Has anyone done this job and could dierct me to any youtube or other links or offer any advice before I start ? Thanks ever so much.

Skoda Yeti 2012 4x4 Is it possible to jack up both front wheels off the floor and put the car in drive to be able to get the engine to slowly rotate the front wheels or will the electronic 4x4 cut in and drive the back wheels and push the car off its front supports. I am trying to locate a clunking sound which is coming either from the driveshaft area or maybe the propshaft region. Have done much work on my Yeti but not familiar enough with how this particular electronic 4x4 works if the front wheels are off the deck. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Have seen so many videos on youtube of the post 2009 2.0 Tdi fuel filters being changed without doing anything more than filling the filter and cannister with diesel before refitting the canister lid but have now found this youtube clip showing how to use VCDS to prime the pumps. Comments, opinions please-----thanks

Hi, Has anyone one the forum changed the fuel filter on a post 2009 2.0 tdi. Mine is a 2012 170 Skoda Yeti with the 2.0 tdi CFJA engine. With earlier VAG tdi engines it was possible to replace the fuel filter and simply top up the filter cannister with diesel and reconnect the pipework and turn the car over for the diesel pipes to prime with fuel. On post 2009 engines I am led to believe that VCDS is needed to prime both pumps as they do not now self prime but I have seen youtube vids showing people following the old method of filling the filter and cannister with diesel and not using VCDS. Don't want to screw my engine up so would appreciate any advice for someone who has done the job. Thanks