marinkol

Btw, water temperature is at 90C, so you need to be in oil temp menu to notice this

You need to go to highway, and drive it for 10-15 min at 180 km/h speed to see it. At 130 km/h is below 110C, but at 180 km/h goes higher. Temperature raise is accumulating and after 10-15 min is stable. I know that most people dont drive that fast, but in some countries (like Germany) is perfectly legal, car is stable, and I am assuming that car should be usable at these speeds if max is at 235 km/h.

I can confirm my frustrations with start/stop and dsg shifts on Octavia 3 vRS. AFAIK there is some trick with vcds for start/stop permanent disable, but it is a hack with temperature sensor, which might change some other things... dsg behaviour is exactly same in my car, and i have found that it is best to be in sport mode and use manual shifts to go to higher speed when needed. It is frustrating, I am considering TSI Superb as my next purchase as it seems DSG in Skoda is much better tweaked for TSi then for TDI.... Btw, if you want another "bad news", try to enable oil temp sensor and drive constantly at least 10 mins with 160 km/h on highway and let me know your temperature. On my car it is over 115C when outside temp is over 15C, and manual states it should be below 110C and that you should lower your speed.

I have same expirience with Octavia 3 vRS (184 ps tdi), when outside temp is 15-20C, constant speed 160 , oil temp is 115+ This is probably ok, but when driving 220-230, temp is 130+. Local service guys are clueless, I was starting to consider writing to Skoda. It is good to hear that my engine is not exception. This is driving me towards 2.0 tsi for Superb purchase.

I can confirm this with comments from my Revo dealer. Not one diesel ever returned to him with turbo problems. BTW, I have also upgraded my vRS TDI from version 1.0 REVO map to 2.0 REVO map (for free) and difference is very noticable, so everyone who revoed TDI before 06/2015 should upgrade. There is noticable difference in 3. gear when compered to old map.

I think that your question is not geeky at all. I have also tried to findout brake disc size of 280ps version, and my motive is to try to compare it to my current car (vRS Octavia 3). It really ****es me off that this info is not available...

I think it is declared as 2x100 W, but it is unknown power rating (I suspect it is not RMS, but "music power") so I suspect it is something lik 50+50W. Subwoofer (original) is stereo, with 4 wires. For 83 dB Cerwin Vega driver, ore any other serious 10" sub, this is not enough.

Yes and No. I have selected Cerwin-Vega 3104, as per original project from link above. You can see it on picture in attachemnt behind original driver. It needs new box (20l sealed) which I am trying to fit so that trunk is not affected, but it will also need additional AMP, as original is not good enough for this sensitivity (83dB), and +9 dB subwoofer settting is not loud enough when compared to front drivers event on low volume listening. Is there option to change this volume levels additionaly with VCDS ? If somebody knows how to get new power cable from battery to trunk without tearing half car apart, I will appritiate it

Hi, inspired by project at http://www.skodacommunity.de/skoda-forum/skoda-octavia-iii-forum/81041-canton-soundsystem/index39.html I have decided to replace stock subwoofer from Canton system. First step was to remove existing sub, and findout why I could not detect it working from drivers seat. I have attached picture of subwoofer driver near cd media so you can judge for your self. It is not just tiny in membrane diameter, but it has almost no magnet, so from my point of view, this is just a marketing device with no function at all at subwoofer freqs.

There is sensor, this is quote from EA288 engine description/learning material I have found on Internet: " In the sump of the EA288 engine there is an electronic oil level and oil temperature sensor. The oil level in the sump is determined according to an ultrasound principle. Depending on the material or density of an obstacle, ultrasound waves are distributed differently or are reflected. Air and oil have different densities. In oil, the ultrasound waves spread with little distortion. In air, on the other hand, ultrasound waves are subject to considerably greater distortion. When using ultrasound waves to determine oil level, the ultrasound waves are reflected at the oil and air boundary. This reflection is used to determine the oil level. The current oil temperature is recorded by a PTC temperature sensor integrated into the component. The electronic measuring system for the oil level and the oil temperature, and the electronics needed to evaluate this data, are integrated into the sensor base. The electronic measuring system for the oil level sends ultrasound waves into the oil sump.The ultrasound waves are reflected at the boundary layer between oil and water and are picked up again by the electronic measuring system. The analysis electronics calculate the oil level from the time difference between the sent and reflected signal. In addition to the oil level, the oil temperature is calculated with a PTC temperature sensor. A pulse width modulated (PWM) signal is used to send oil level and oil temperature values to the ECM. "

To quote from Concluson:

Yes, but it seems that degradation of oil is much faster in this type of use, so I should change it every 10k km instead of every 30k km BTW, investigating further into oil temperature ranges, I have found this very interesting document, which is based on hard facts and scientific meassurement, and not redacted but oil manufacturers It is shocking for me, as it proves that oil should be changed every 7000 km (4500 miles) if car is used in stop-go traffic (90%), even if you use recommended VW 507 00 oil like Castrol LongLife III http://ip.simr.pw.edu.pl/zn/artykuly/zn5%2896%292013/077-088.pdf

We here are envious to Germany, as there is no speed limit on highway (on most of them anyway), and you dont need to look at your mirrors to spot interceptor cars. So if you decide to ship it, ship it to Germany

Yes, this is why it worries me. At that speed, engine is reving at about 3250 rpm. So our beloved car is not made for that speed, or manual is to conservative ?

When water is in stable state (90 C on my car), after few minutes, Oil temperature is at 100 C and it seems this is target temperature for this engine. It depends how you plan to use Stage1 tuned car... If this is just occasional race on B roads with unsuspected opponent , then probably colling is not a problem. But what about race track or highway race with high speeds ? I am pretty stubborn when some 330d driver is trying to overtake me on highway, so this is really important info for me before I pay for Stage1 remap If you come back with your car, try to go before or after main season, highway is almost empty and in very good shape.

Well, if you are not in southern Italy, you are not so far away for a weekend trip so you can try it yourself Driving up to 178 km/h is 32 EUR if you pay within 3 days, up to 195 km/h is 65 EUR, and after that it gets ugly if you don't watch for interceptor cars (mostly A4 3.0 TDI) Please if you can report your findings, temperature is going up fast, it needs less then 2-3 minutes at that speed.

Hi, today I had a chance to drive with constant speed for prolonged period of time and watch oil temp on multicolor display. When driving 125 Mph (200 km/h) with cruse control for 10-15 minutes, temperature is in range 115-120 C. Outside temp was 15 C. This seems to me a little bit to much, as outside temp is low, and this is not peak power of this engine. I will try to drive it at max speed for 5-10 min (235 km/h). Normal oil temp in city driving is around 100 C. My next question is regarding chip tunning/remap. It seems to me that for serious high speed driving this car needs some change done to cooling system ? Any suggestions ?