happyclappy65

Brilliant. Thank you so much. If I need a new battery, I can simply match the OEM fit with another BOSCH 5KO 915 105D (12V, 540A, 60Ah). Again, many thanks.

Skoda dealer says car needs a new battery and the battery needs to be coded to the car. If indeed it does need a new battery, why does it need to be coded to the car? It's not stop/start, it's a manual 6-speed gearbox. Car's description: Skoda Superb Estate 2013 vintage (MkII?), 1.4TSi petrol engine, manual gearbox. I had thought that only auto boxes with stop/start needed coding. Is my understanding incorrect? Thanks for responding.

I just want to close out this thread with a success story. But first, my personal vote of thanks to you, Prezafab, for your guidance. I took your suggestion that the digitizer probably needed replacement and did more research. What I discovered was that a whole raft of suppliers sold digitizers and there were many types of them. In the end I bought a new set of torx-like screw drivers and some trim removal tools and pulled the radio from the car taking guidance from a YouTube vid produced by “BrokenFixed”. Once out, I could read the part number from the back of the screen assembly and used that to order a replacement from eBay. It cost all of £10 including P&P! Now management has a fully working radio in her Yeti. Again, many thanks.

Sounds good. Thanks. Any pointers where I can get the replacement (and how to do the changeover)? Are we going eBay, or somewhere more sophisticated?

The Bolero radio in my wife's Yeti (on a 66 plate) has gone on the fritz! It started a couple of years ago when a 2cm wide edge at the left of the touchscreen became unresponsive, but now it's losing radio stations in mid-programs and it's problematic to get the presets back. It can still be controlled somewhat through the steering wheel buttons, but again this is not reliable. Does the Collective have any recommendations for repair shops that could reliably fix problems with Boleros? We're located in the vicinity of Warrington, if that helps. Ta!

Just would like to thank all contributors to this thread. I too had the dreaded "fan blower no blow" syndrome and was able to fix it thanks to what's been written here. I my case the WD-40 was used to clean the terminals where the loom joins the fan assembly. I've also discovered where the big speed resistor is too; just in case that pops its clogs. Again, many thanks for helping with what turned out to be a quick fix! 😃

Many thanks for this information. Off to the Skoda dealer it is, then. Hopefully, they have the specialist kit. The key fob in question has been in my possession forever, so the car's "only" lost the code for that key that won't start it. Thankfully, the other key's working. Tnaks again! 🙂

Anybody? Please 😶

I made a post on Jan 16th about my Superb 1.4TSI not starting. You can review it here, where I concluded that the security function in my "daily driver" key fob had failed in some way but the security in my almost completely unused "spare" key fob was good to go. So, now my car starts instantly with what was my spare key that only used to come out for services and MOT's, but won't start with the key that I have used regularly for the last 10 years. My question is how do I / can I reset the security function of my original fob? Is this something I can DIY, or does it need specialist services? I've checked the Owner Manual and there are references for linking the fob to the central locking if it doesn't work after a new battery, but nothing about resetting security. In the attached image of the key fob, there's a small pin - the sort you'd find on an electronic gizmo. Is this a reset, and if so how do I get it to talk to the car again? Apologies in advance; I obscured some of the numbers because I wasn't sure if they are security-related. Cheers!

Dug out the spare key which has been in a safe place and only used when car was left for servicing/MOT. The car started instantly! I'll close this topic and thank all for their contributions. In the meantime, I'll replace the 10yr old battery in the 'main' fob on my keyring.

I would say it rocked on its suspension. No significant movement. But it musta done something as it then was able to turn over.

Just recorded this. Sounds "normal" to me, it's turning over as it has always done in my 10 years of ownership. Superb not starting.mp4

Have a 2013 Skoda Superb Estate (Combi?) with 1.4TSI engine. 43K miles since new. Nowadays my Superb gets little use. My wife prefers we travel in her Yeti but this AM I went to start the Superb. Turned the key but nothing happened - the engine did not even turn over. All normal dash lights were on, and the clutch pushed fully to floor. Tried again. Still nothing. I couldn't hear any clicks (from starter solenoids - do cars still have these?) indicating a completely flat battery but nevertheless went ahead and put it on charge for 30 mins. Initial charge rate was 6.5A, falling to 2A at the end of the 30 mins. (I recon that's an indication the battery was not flat.) Tried starting again. Result was as above. Nothing - engine did not turn over. With ignition off and car in gear, I took my foot off the clutch and released the handbrake, the car barely moved down the slightly sloping drive, but did so slightly. Handbrake back on. Foot on clutch and tried again. Hah! Now the engine turned over, and even if I say so myself, it turned over vigorously. Now it turns over but will not start. To be blunt, on cars since 1970, I have no idea where to start troubleshooting, other than was the clutch pushed fully down (check, yes) and is there fuel in the tank less than 4 weeks old (check, yes). I don't even know where the ignition components are to give them the WD-40 treatment. Anyone out there that could help with a diagnostic process, please. Many thanks.

TBH, "If I knew then what I know now", I would not have removed the scuttle panels. My car's 8 years old in a few weeks and I've realised that the external plastics are somewhat brittle, and I damaged one of the scuttle covers. Each of the two covers are held down by a rubber seal forward of the windscreen and a rubber seal around the bonnet hinge. The fragile part is on the underside of the cover where it meets the windscreen, and comprises a moulded lip (actually a protrusion) that sits in a groove at the base of the screen. I don't have any pictures of the underside of the cover, but I've posted an image of the base of my screen showing the groove. I suspect the reason you are finding it hard to remove the covers is that like mine, yours are full of crud that's been washed off the screen. This acts to clamp the lip into the groove and if you pull to hard, as I did, then the protrusion snaps off. So my left scuttle cover has half its protrusion missing and is now held to the right side with a self tapper. So, what would I do differently? First, not remove the scuttle, and with it still in place I'd try to establish if I had a problem under that cover. Skoda calls that "the water box" and if I had my time over, I'd try to see if this was the source of my leak by pouring water in the drainage gaps, but colouring the water with food colouring. Then if you find coloured water in your cabin, you've got the source of the leak. Obvs something not to do if you have a cream interior carpet; mine are black! Second, to test whether I had a windscreen leak, I would just cover the trim at the sides and the top with PVC tape to stop rain getting in. If the leak stops, then you've found the source of the leak and you'll need your screen sealing. (I recommend that if you do that, experiment with the tape on an inconspicuous part of the body, just in case the tape adhesive is too strong and you end up with a car in primer...) The stuff I used to seal my screen is not a car product as such, but is a flexible mastic/adhesive made by Everbuild and sold under the brand name of Stixall. It's available in DIY sheds and from auction sites, and is applied with a gun as you might use for silicone sealants. To get to where the side of the screen meets the body and to force the Stixall in the gaps, you'll need to take off the two trim stips at the side of the screen. Again, you need to be careful as they might be as brittle as mine and are expensive to replace! At the top of the screen, there's a simple rubber seal that sits in a groove and mine came out easily and went back more easily once it had been lubricated by Stixall. If ever I needed a new screen, I'm certain that the installer will have their work cut out to clean all the Stixall off the body, but I'll cross that bridge as and when. The above is my story; there's no guarantee it will work for you. Caveat emptor and all that. Have a poke around THIS website: (http://www.ilcats.ru/skoda/?function=getModels&market=CZ&language=en) . They have exploded diagrams of the Superb, and I found the pages very handy when I was trying to find how the body went together. Stay Safe!

Mine's a petrol-fuelled TSI, but the above will be good to know for the TDI ownership on the forum.