franv8

Just wanted to say thanks for this guide, really useful. Did the job on Sciencebird's vRS, using the latest stock Fabia bushes, I was looking to do the Seat ones but the parts guy at Skoda said they'd been modded (see below if I've been able to add pics) - I figured these did away with the risk of boom, since the car does a lot of miles in the year. Old ones lasted 80k, so not too bad really. I made a couple of changes to how I did it vs the guide, used copperslip on the bush - I'm not worried about it turning or shifting about. I also used coperslip on quite a few other threads, including the front wishbone bolt (it is threaded into the aluminium console and people here say they've had it seize) and the wheel bolts too. Last mod I'll mention - be careful when marking up the balljoint - you need to mark the cast part of the balljoint where it meets the wishbone, this is what keeps/sets the geometry, if you just mark the bolts you'll achive nothing. Handling is exactly as it was before. [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0779.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0778.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0763.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0759.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0757.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0756.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0753.jpg[/img] [imp]http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l68/franv8/Fabia%20Bits/SkodaBrakesBush_20100827_0751.jpg[/img]

On the subject of how to insure your machine (sorry this is after the fact - but perhaps handy going forward) - I think standalone bike insurance is expensive, and from memory, full of loopholes. However, it is normally quite cost effective to add them specifically to home insurance (can't remember what we're paying, but it may have been a few, i.e. single digit, pounds per month), we're with Legal & General. I used to be insured via HSBC, the only fly in the ointment was we ended up arguing over the circumstances of my theft, but in the end they conceded and the new for old payout was a godsend. So I would sayt hey were good too. Trouble is these days, mountain bikes can quite easily exceed the value of the car they are in/on, and are easily taken away either by riding or chucking in another car or van. Sadly, if you can't totally hide it in the car, I think the only solution is to ensure it is in sight (on the car) or take it off (e.g. in the past B&B's in which I've stayed ahve allowed putting the bike in their cellar etc) Still VERY sorry to hear of your loss, I lost my two in circumstances which I could've done something smarter (not a very good area of Nottingham at the time...), it's sad that you even had them locked away in the safest place at the time, and yet that still isn't enough. Good luck sorting it out.

Re: the insurance - have you had a look at your home insurance? Probably better covered under this - especially if you'd extended the cover specifically for the bike. If so, don't be surprised if they refuse at first (I think they tend to try and refuse everything first time) then argue (calmly) the point and send letters if still no action. Good luck - had two mountain bikes stolen about 3-4 years ago - was quite upsetting.

I'd go for the vRS - tried the Focus a few times as a hire car, and felt the Mkii focus has lost its looks (just my opinion) and to be honest, the interior reminded me of that in my old 1988 Rapid when I used to have one, not good and a total step backwards. Yes theTDCi's have a more linear power delivery, but they just don't seem to have the outright punch to make the Focus fly along. Focus handling though does still punch above it's weight, although I would comment I think they've gone a little GM these days and the cars did feel a touch stiffly suspended compared to Focii of old! I'm a little passionate about the vRS - it plays as a much bigger car than it has any right to, although I'm not of the opinion it'll blow anything off the road. It'll have a fair go though!

My 2p worth - Flux - just changed off them after a few years - they were reasonablyt easy to deal with, but never really challenged their own pricing very hard. Saved a fortune on insuring my Yank and Jap Import elsewhere this year (I'd still consider AF, but they'd need to sort the cost out to be competitive) Norwich Union - SB insures her Fab vRS with them. Between the Indian Call Centre that doesn't call you back/always claims their computers are down and recent disorganisation with a claim - we won't be goign with Norwich Union on anything in the near future.

Schwarz - review here: Kodak EasyShare P850 Review: 15. Conclusion: Digital Photography Review Generally not bad, but I'd say that you may find the weak points are ones that are important to you - poor low light performance (think forests), slow focussing (action - although you may get round with pre-focussing) and question marks over sharpness of the image (if you want big action prints). DPreview a great site for checking out almost any camera specs (in my opinion...) Another suggestion, sorry to talk SLR's, perhaps scouring back pages of Amateur Photographer (it's weekly, and er, you could read it in WHSmith 'library' without purchase) classifieds might yield a 2nd hand DSLR (perhaps one of the older Canon models) at your price range - I wouldn't bother with ebay - people bid stuff up too far. Hope this helps,

I used to get some good vids and pics with a Fuji M603, depsite a 2X zoom, however, it's only any good when you can get close to the action. I use a DSLR with a 100-400mm zoom these days, so circuit stuff (where you tend to be miles away) is easily in reach. HOWEVER - all this talk of digital, film is not yet dead! I used to use a Canon EOS 5 and a 75-300mm lens, you could get that pair and a standard zoom (say 35-70mm) for about 200 pounds, and in truth the extra latitude of exposure film gives makes exposure a touch easier too. Plus, if you fdid go digital with Canon, whatever lenses you have collected go with your new digital body! Of course you cna do pretty much the same with Pentax, Nikon, Samsung, Minolta/Sony etc. too. Good luck!

Respect to your choice of cars sir!

Should we have another post - People who are not safe to have near your car (especially with tools...) I was welding under a kit car I had once, only I hadn't taken the carpet out. Set fire to it, looked into the 'cockpit' to find it on fire, six inches from the extinguisher. Thought 'Hmm, I paid £20 for that extinguisher - not going to use that' so persisted to put flames out with hands... odd logic in hindsight! Another time was grinding some chassis rails for a Pop my mate never built, dirty oil soaked overalls, switched off grinder and couldn't understand why there was still sparks. Until I realised it was the overalls burning near my family valuables... Last one - on my Skoda Rapid, they didn.t used to make the best quality rubber, grabbed a damp HT lead and spent a few moment's doing a Max Headroom impression until I was able to let go.

Haven't really got into any yet (couple of games each) - but Command and Conquer Red Alert 2, also played LAN with two friends as well, and GTR2 - GT racing game - but it's a bit of a sim and you do need a steering wheel to play really (just got one today!!)

I looked into this last year (and had it done - before I sold the house). If yours are in wood, and in fair to good condition (not rotten, or having missed chunks of paint for a time) then cheapest option, if you're prepared to do it and have access, is prepare by cleaning, then sanding and painting. But you'll probably need to repaint every 3-5 years. Mine were a pain to get to, and I had a chalet style house, so I had pretty much more than twice the amount a 'normal' house had, and decided plastic was the way forward (think it helps to 'update' a house in the eyes of potential buyers, although I can well understand the preference for well cared for wod by some people). If it's being done in plastic (by you or someone else) - if your boards are in good condition, then you can 'overclad' them with relevant UPVC pieces, people I spoke to about it said it wasn't necessarily the bodge it first sounds. Alternatively (and best way) is to remove all the old boards, then it is normal to affix (with screws) (wooden) 'sprockets' to the vertical sides of the roof joists, these are rectangular wood pieces onto which the fascia boards are screwed. They stop the scres going into the end grain of the joists if you'd just screwed these. They also allow the mounting faces to be easily leveled before screwing on the facias and soffits. I had these done by a roofing company (not a 'fascias and soffits co), who were more credible than some of the people I let through my front door to quote, and about half the price. I had some quotes of £5000, whereas I got it done for less than two. I worked out material cost at about £600, and it was about three days labour to get mine done, I'd have thought for yours, from an honest contractor, would be less then a grand all in (I'm not in the trade so don't attach too much value to this). Just a guess. So, in summary - Ultimate job absolutely replaces wooden boards with plastic - new build will be the same If I were getting it done again, I'd search out a roofing contractor - more knowledgable, credible and value for money.

I think you'll find the Jag engined special in question is, in actual fact a rally car. It was featured in PPC a few months back (friend is looking for the issue), and he rallies in a class with special dispensation - pretty much means he's rallying for the fun of it (doesn't fit the regular classes). But what fun I bet he has!!