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Oh dear... :-( How much are we talking?

Thanks Tech1e From the log info above these are the values that match the image info. 0.0 Compressor Shut-Off Code 0.820 A Compressor Current (actual) 0.820 A Compressor Current (specified) 27.0°C Outside Temp. Unfiltered 25.0°C Evaporator Temperature 39.0°C Interior Temperature Does this help? I noticed that you had previously posted the following info Based on the info from my scan logs and the info you posted, I'm guessing (hoping) that the compressor is OK?

I've, done another VCDS scan and logged the output. The compressor current remains the same as the current (specified). VCDS log info after RPM incease. Interestingly, there were times during the scan that measure blocks 002 and 003 threw errors (no info from the controller). Can anyone advise on the next steps please? Any advice much appreciated.

Don't think so, but if memory serves the value was static at 0. Where do I measure this Tech1e, and what values should I be seeing?

hi Guys Hoping someone can help point me in the right direction with an air con problem. Last year air con went warm. Checked on VCDS, low pressure. Got it regassed, was ok for a short while then low pressure again. Back to the garage, had 2 pipes replaced, one included the pressure switch (the pipe nearest the compressor). Regassed, all good for about 6/7 weeks now blowing warm again. This time VCDS shows no faults. Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1K0-907-044.lbl Part No SW: 1Z0 907 044 AB HW: 1Z0 907 044 AB Component: ClimatronicPQ35 120 0600 Revision: 00120022 Serial number: 00000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 76E3C779010EFD8E54-8022 No fault code found. Ran a trace and this time the gas presssure looks OK (please see attached log). Set the car to 16 degrees on Auto (outside temp 20+ degrees) and the blower runs on full whack and never slows because it's pushing warm air around. If someone can take a look at the trace log and make sense of it - that would be most welcomed. Even better if someone could point me in the right direction of what further tests I can do to try and resolve the problem before I have to relent and take it back to the garage. Thanks in advance. Edit: Car dash is permanently making a hissing noise which I understand is typical where the gas pressure is low - logs show pressure is OK. Also noticed that the log shows no value for the fresh air intake - which may or may not be relevant (although it does sound like such a sensor value would be important in air con calculations...) LOG-08-012-02F-037-04F.CSV

hi Guys Bolero been fitted a while now. No battery drain issues. Summary of +/- after upgrade (for my car) Firstly the positives SD card slot Appearance much better than the Stream No battery drain 6-CD head unit (inc mp3) Acoustic parking 'beeps' retained Negatives Lost visual parking aid/display Lost audio volume lowering when reverse selected Boot mounted CD changer no longer hooked up to head unit Temp change no longer displays on head unit (not a big deal for me) Couple of questions. Miss the visual parking aid - what needs to be done to get it working again - I'm guessing a new controller perhaps?If a new controller is required, how do I know what to get and how do I change it CD changer - can this be made to work with the Bolero unit?Is this possible? Can it be done via VCDS? Any help with the questions would be greatly appreciated.

hi Guys Finally got around to getting a Bolero, and typically having done so am now wondering if my car CAN gateway is incompatible. Having read through the Ross-Tech guide (thanks neomancer) , it seems that they are stating that mine is not compatible. CAN gateway info on my car. Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V3.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 P HW: 1K0 907 951 Component: J533__Gateway H16 0191 Revision: H16 Serial number: 2000K07A19050C Coding: E9827F0E0002022303 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 34673D7157F2AF9EAA-8060 According to the Ross-Tech article, CAN gateway 1K0 907 530 P version 0191 is not compatible and needs to be replaced. Can anyone give a finite answer on whether my cars gateway is compatible in terms of the battery drain problem please? ..or is it a case of suck it and see?

Thanks again @Tech1e for the info - sound advice re unplugging the camshaft sensor if I get stuck! That scenario does fit for my car. Intermittently, the engine cranks over for a number of seconds before starting. Next time starts instantly...

Thanks @tech1e Should the need arise - gives me a bit more confidence to do the job myself Assuming that the sensor isn't replaced, what's the worst case scenario - it will fail completely one day and the car will not start or does the ECU use some base line value or the crankshaft sensor and some base values? If the fault repeatedly shows up after resetting/clearing, is there anything else to check before getting a new sensor?

hi Guys To the untrained eye it looks like the camshaft sensor on my car needs replacing. 2008 2.0 TDi Scout Engine code is BMM Noticed that occasionally the car took longer to start, it was and still happens intermittently. Scanned the car using VCDS and saw the following: Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-021-BMM.clb Part No SW: 03G 906 021 SS HW: 03G 906 021 AB Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 1302 Revision: --H07--- Serial number: SKZ7Z0G4592276 Coding: 0000172 Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032 VCID: 020BABA95DC6D12E68-8056 1 Fault Found: 012295 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) P3007 - 000 - No Signal - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 254 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 209491 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 08:29:21 Freeze Frame: RPM: 1449 /min Speed: 50.0 km/h Load: 14.9 % Voltage: 14.44 V Bin. Bits: 00101000 Idle Stabilization: -2.9°KW (no units): 48.0 Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0 So reset the fault code and ran another scan and got Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-021-BMM.clb Part No SW: 03G 906 021 SS HW: 03G 906 021 AB Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 1302 Revision: --H07--- Serial number: SKZ7Z0G4592276 Coding: 0000172 Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032 VCID: 020BABA95DC6D12E68-8056 1 Fault Found: 012295 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) P3007 - 000 - No Signal Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 216572 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 10:42:01 Freeze Frame: RPM: 798 /min Speed: 0.0 km/h Load: 0.0 % Voltage: 14.36 V Bin. Bits: 00101100 Idle Stabilization: 0.0°KW (no units): 48.0 Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1 To me this is pretty conclusive, and the sensor needs replacing. I've had a quick look in the Haynes manual which says that the cambelt needs to to come off in order to get access to the sensor. Dealer says the part is £101, or supplied /fitted for £350 Are the scan logs conclusive and the sensor needs replacing? Are there other tests that need to be done? Does the cambelt need to come off to do this job? Can I do this job myself Has anyone know of a guide on how to change the sensor. Thanks in advance

Thanks again @willydog - based on how easy it was to release the hub bolt - that's what I've done 52 ft/lbs then 90 degrees while car still up on stands Job is now done and car road tested. Seems OK to me, and overall is quieter over bumps etc. (probably as would be expected) No steering pull and stays straight under braking. In the end fitted 2 ball joints as well as drop links. Now need to get wheel alignment checked. Anyone used ABP motorsport in Shavington nr Crewe? Also thanks to everyone else who contributed - much appreciated

No I didn't unfortunately. just read the haynes manual which I think didn't help in terms of removing the strut. On another note, the new driveshaft bolt is not the same as the one I've removed. The old one is a 27mm hex nut with a thick washer, whereas the new one is the more familiar dodecagon (?) with a built in collar. The thread is the same and so is the thread length. Does anyone know what this should be torqued to? The original one was quite easy to loosen and then later remove (2ft power bar), so don't want to over tighten it. Haynes manual gives 2 quite different values depending on whether the face of the bolt is ribbed or not.

Great thanks @willydog Clearly my chisel etc was no where near - didn't realise that it needed to be spread that much - I'll put that down to lack of inexperience/knowledge

Thanks @trundlenut ...guess the car has got the better of me today....now that I have removed the complete assembly I don.t need to split the hub and remove the strut do I as I've already got access to the spring/top mount/bearing etc.

Thanks again @willydog Don't have proper tool and only working from Haynes manual which says cold chisel should do the job - obviously not in my case. BTW I have now removed the complete hub/strut assembly and can see that there is a tongue on the strut guess to stop the strut turning - will try the bolt idea. How far does the hub need to spread?

hi guys started the job of changing the front springs. Decided to choose the option of removing the driveshaft so I could do one side at a time in isolation. Overall it's been and still is problematic. Still not completed one side yet. Had a struggle removing the lower drop link nut, badly corroded One of the ball joint nut sheared off and don't have/can't get a replacement until tomorrow Strut pinch bolt seized but finally got it out No matter how much I try, I cannot get the strut out of the hub/wheel bearing housing. Inserted chisel opened up the gap, then tried various other chisels screwdrivers etc including anti-seize compound - still no luck Do any of you have any tips on getting the strut out? At the moment the car is off the road and kinda need it for work Tuesday, so any (constructive) suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance

Thanks again @willydog for the useful tips/info The Lesjofors springs were indeed wrong and GSF parts system doesn't link the correct Lesjofors part (4095095 --> superseded by 4085719) to my car. Ended up going back to main dealer and managed to get springs from them (should be delivered today). So now have all OEM parts. Just hope I don't need to replace any of the ball joints...as I don't have them. Intending to do the job tomorrow...most probably in the rain.

Thanks @willydog Need to get nuts for the top of the strut 'piston', dealer forgot to include them even though I asked for them, will get a couple of driveshaft nuts as I'm guessing it's more of a struggle to get the strut out if the driveshaft stays in place. If the driveshaft stays connected, what actually needs to be released to get enough movement to remove the strut? Ball joint, droplink and anti-roll bar?

Thanks trundlenut. Looks like a trip back to GSF to see if they can get them or refund if not and then source them from somewhere else Means that I probably won't have replacements before the weekend now....

thanks trundelnut link just reverts to landng page. Looks like the part number on the label 4095080 is not the correct one - according to the Lesjofors site it should be 4095095 which has been superceded by 4085719 (EAN 7394410115564). LESJÖFORS Coil Spring Found via Trade number: 22722743 Trade numbers: 22722743 Fitting Position: Front Axle Supersedes: - 4095095 So looks like part number I actually need is 4085719...

Thanks for the info @brad1.8T. Finally got around to getting the parts with the intention of replacing the springs etc on Friday. Didn't get new nuts for driveshafts though - can I reuse the existing ones - or reuse them temporarily - that's if I need to release the hub (as per haynes manual). I've got OEM parts for top mount and bearing including new drop links inc. new bolts/nuts. Going to stick with existing struts as visually they are fine, and existing ball joints. I've got a pair of Lesjofors springs bought from GSF. Trouble is I've managed to get the broken piece of spring out and have compared it to the new ones and there is an obvious difference in diameter. I did phone GSF before ordering them and did double check that they were the correct ones before picking them up. The boxes don't have the Lesjofors part number on so can't compare that way. Having now checked the labels they state EOS 2.0 TFSI, 2.0TDI / JETTA 2.0 TDI 08/05-> no mention of Skoda nevermind Octavia! The GSF site classes my car as:- SKODA OCTAVIA 2.0 TDI 4x4 Diesel (07/06 - 05/10) I've added a pic of the label and also a pic showing the difference between the OEM spring diameter and the new Lesjofors. Does anyone have any comments to make about this - as I'm thinking that they can't be the correct springs, so reluctant to start the job/fit them. Thanks

@Tech1e Wasn't a criticism just thought it would take even a garage longer than that, but highlights how slow I am! If it's only an hour or even 2, I might consider letting a garage to do the job. Just don't know a local garage I feel that I can trust (Crewe, Cheshire). Thanks trundlenut, did enter reg on GSF and spring info does state Scout fitment. Getting the correct parts is one of the things i'm concerned about, especially if I do the job and find that I have the wrong parts after the car is stripped.

Thanks again for all of the replies. Got splines etc Looked up the lesjofors springs on the GSF website, cheaper than Sachs on EuroCarParts. For pairs of lesjofors springs boge struts, ruville top mounts "premium" drop links - no manufacturer specified TRW balll joints that adds up to around £400 anyone got a promo code? Ideally only want to fit parts that are expected to have a decent life expectancy. Can these parts be bettered? @Tech1e Only an hour to change both springs, I was thinking that this job is going to take me a whole day! Is wheel alignment recommended afterwards or not so long as the strut positions are marked before removal and realigned?

Cheers guys. Got compressors and a small puller (hopefully puller not needed but knowing my luck...) Intending to take whole strut/leg off the car, replace string, top mount/bearing and refit. Anyone know how many hours a garage would reckon for both sides (assuming droplinks and balljoints included)? just trying to gauge how long... Any opinions/preferences on OEM vs aftermarket parts?

Thanks for the reply trundlenut, has considered the drop links, so might as well include them in the parts list so they are to hand. Hadn't considered the ball joints though, so will play that one by ear. Did you fit OEM or aftermarket parts?