AJAMESR

Some on here will def be better in the know - but I’m pretty sure activation is possible then. As mentioned earlier, I though it was standard on the L&K. But so much varies from country to country and year to year. Is it the Facelift or pre-Facelift? I remember reading somewhere that you need the right Can Gateway or Head Unit - although the Headunit may only be for Virtual Cockpit. Pretty sure the gateway can be upgraded easy(ish) if it’s the older one you have. But as I say, others here have more exact details. Search for a lane assist thread on here somewhere that discussed this before. I think someone gave decent step by step requirements. I think someone even fitted his own camera. So all things are possible.

Front and side assist will be by radar sensors on the car. Lane assist and traffic recognition will require the camera on the windscreen. Check and see if the camera is visible On the windscreen. With that hardware there it should then be a coding/software solution.

Thanks for the info on the lights. Clears it up. As regards the other stuff. I very much agree. I prefer the spec of the L&K and I also prefer the seats. But prefer the look of the Sportline, black pack and body colours. But agree about the seats, I'm not overly fussed on the Alcantara. But its growing on me. I think the Sportline also sits a bit lower. But a 272 L&K would be a sweet little sleeper of a car. I haven't ruled it out.

I wasn't too bothered about the headlights to be honest, more the overall look of the little changes, and the VC and maybe a little easier to sell when it comes to it in 3 or 4 years time. I have been looking for a Sportline for the colours available that arent on the other variants. And none of the pre-FL have VC. Some of the L&K pre-FL do have the VC though as you say, but very restricted in colour options. Good point about the cost of fixing problems lights. What is the major difference between the new HL and the pre-FL HL? Is it not just cosmetic? I'm not sure if my heart or my head is going to win this one.

Agree with all of that. My head is really telling me that the bargain is in the pre-FL. My heart would love the little extras though. And I’d just hate 6 months down the road to be wishing I’d gone for the FL. But I guess I’d just look at my bank account to cheer myself up again 😂😂 VC can be retro’d if I really wanted it🤷‍♂️ Plenty to think about. But it’s nice to have the headache 😂

Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I'm torn between this and splashing out on a FL model with VC etc. Still 272. But they are about 7K Sterling more expensive than this one. If it was about 5K in the difference I'd prob go for the later model. But 7K makes it a lot harder to justify. I was kinda hoping someone would make my mind up and tell me to completely avoid this one 😂 But it looks like it could be a viable option. I could meet in the middle and go for a 190BHP but FL with VC etc. Kinda best of both worlds and prob priced in the middle. Will be keeping my eyes peeled.

Thanks for the info. Test driving will be an issue as well. I would normally go and get it myself (have done in the past a couple of times) But with the whole covid situation it means I would have to quartine on returning to Ireland for 2 weeks. I need to work, and can't work from home. So I'll be using an agency to collect it for me. I wish I could by this type of car here in Ireland, but all they are selling is the 150BHP versions. Can't bring myself to spend my money that way. I need at least the 190. So its all a bit of a risk etc etc - which I am trying to minimise. I think they are very reliable cars anyway and I'd want to be very unlucky to get a lemon. Hence why Im a little worried about 2 owners on this one already in its young life.

Hi guys, I'm in the market for a second hand, but only barely used, Superb. 2019 Model basically. I have come across a 2019 (pre-FL, beggars can't be choosers) and it meets quite a bit of my checklist. 13.5K Miles, registered March 2019 and is priced on the low side from Wimbeldon Park Honda. But it has 2 previous owners - which is setting off a little red flag in my lizard brain. Would it bother you? Or would you be concerned? That its not a Skoda dealer - would that be a concern in any way. I have to be a bit more cautious than most as I would be bringing back to Ireland, so any after sales issues wouldn't be easily resolved. Thoughts?

Yehh I'm not bothered about the head unit funny enough. I wouldnt spend the extra on the Columbus if I was ordering to spec. And i have found a company that installs aftermarket speaker systems to suit individual car. So Canton no longer a priority. They'll upgrade all speakers, install a sub and an amp. So thats always a relatively easy retro fit.

So the configurator has been updated to include the new Octavia. Alas, no VRS yet. Still interesting to get a look and get some prices. First thing that strikes me as strange is no "Canton" sound system available, even as an optional extra. Very limited engine choices - only 3 to chose from. 1L TSI in Manual & DSG, and a 2L TDI Manual. So a max 116BHP. Thats not great is it. So none of them appeal to me based on those choices. On another note, had a look at the Superb options, hoping for 190BHP option choice as available in UK. Not only is there no 190 but the PHEV has also been removed and the L&K has been removed as well. That seems very strange. Hardly expecting a new model Superb anytime soon. They've just updated it, why remove the L&K variant so soon after the new FL? Hoping this trend of crap options available in Ireland doesn't continue. No wonder so many cars get imported from the UK every year. We can't get what we want here. Absolutely rubbish engine options to chose from in the Superb and the Octavia. All options underpowered, with better options available elsewhere. Colors often seem a bit more limited also compared to some other countries. And no "Canton" option - what the hell is that all about. Bit disappointed. Hopefully it improves.

Immobiliser - No. You can’t recode keys. You can manually resync a remote but you can’t recode keys. And contrary to popular myth, keys don’t “fall out of programming”. The immo uses a solid state memory which memorises the key even if no power to the car for months. A key can be faulty - faulty aerial not sending signal to the car - but in any case of it was a key issue you will get a warning on the dash that key is not recognised. Fuel Cut Off - Again I doubt it. Fuel cut off will just make it sound like I are trying to start a car with no fuel. It won’t cause the clicking Relay noise u are hearing. My money is still on a battery issue. See a lot of it. Lights on dash will flicker a bit and you can hear relays clicking on and off. In some cases putting jump leads or a jump pack on is not enough. You need to remove both + & - leads from car battery and put jump pack straight onto the leads. In some cases a bad battery on the car can drain the new power source if it’s still in the circuit. If you can do a short video and post it, we might see and hear the symptoms better.

That clicking is a common sound when not enough power is coming from the battery.

Interesting. I’ve considered a few Porsche’s - 911, Cayman, BoxterS, Panamera. But I think when the buzz wears off, are they a practical car? Have looked at a lot of Audi’s as well. A5,A6,A8. 1 & 2 year olds seem to have lost a lot of value. So I wouldn’t buy new. But a couple years old one is tempting. Although not a lot of choice on the colour front. Very boring colours. Black, White & Silver 🤷‍♂️ Ferrari - not for me 😂 I’d be too concerned about reliability and then servicing & repair costs. Rich peoples toys I think 😂😂 Think id be very satisfied with the right Superb.

Out of interest if you were spending 40K - what would you spend it on?

Shame it’s wet. This was the best I could make out. If what I could read none of them suggest any ADAS options.

Love this. Have an Octy VRS in this colour & im on the lookout now for a Superb like this. Stunning.

Live and configurable on the Skoda Website. Build your own. https://cc.skoda-auto.com/cze/en-CZ/

Its a complicated subject. Basically you need 2 things for any ADAS system to work - the Hardware (Sensors, Cameras etc) and the software to run it. You could have one and not the other. You could have the hardware in place, but as has been suggested above, the software to run it may have been disabled or deleted. Or you may have options appearing on a menu but unless you have the hardware installed they will not activate. As I mentioned above, go to your boot and find the sticker as in the link above. That will translate into the exact spec on that car as it left the factory. That will be a good place to start to see what was active on the car originally. Then you have more information on what to do next. There is a lot of different ADAS systems, some will work independant, some require other systems to be active - its a bit of a minefield. But by getting the info on what the car was originally spec'd with, you will know wether it is worth infesting anymore time in. And it will give you something to go back to the dealer with. After that you will need to physically check to see if a Camera is installed on the windscreen, a Radar sensor is present behind the front bumper (possibly behind the badge - it is on the latest VW ) and if the car has cruise control, which is a pretty standard on a lot of Skoda's. Also is it auto or manual. All these factors will feed into what the car is then capable of from an ADAS point of view.

You did the right thing. Sounds to me like the dealer was taking the ....!

In order to practice, remove the battery from the key and go out to the car. Leave the other key in the house so that the proximity system doesn't pick it up. Maybe unlock the car first to save you time getting out the emergency blade, you know how that works now. When in the car, try and start car by pressing the Start Button - you should now see a message on the screen saying no key detected. Now look at the plastic trim around the steering wheel were an ignition barel would usually be. You should see a Key Symbol etched into the plastic. Very subtle. Hold your key next to that symbol and now press the Start button. Car will start. There is an antenna behind the plastic that creates a magnetic field which powers up an emergency chip inside the key. If the key symbol is not there, have a read of the manual. They may have placed it somewhere else. It varies from car to car.

👍 Did they also show you how to start the car when the battery is dead?

And the red light on the key just acknowledges a pressed button. Simply indicates power is in the key. But it doesn’t necessarily mean that a signal is being sent. It’s very good indicator that a signal is being sent but no guarantee. It is literal just an LED in circuit between the buttons and battery. So when u push a button it draws power from the battery which runs through the LED on its way to the aerial and so the LED lights up. But if u have a faulty aerial in the key then the signal won’t get sent. A proper RF tester can test for a signal. On many keys the LED can be blown but a signal still gets sent. So really the LED is just a useful guide but no guarantee.

As for warnings about dead battery. I know some cars only have a timer in the system. Bit like a filter in a kettle. It just knows roughly how long of a life it should have. But some systems are sensitive to the strength of the signal coming from the key. Not sure about the Octy.

I presume these are all Prox Keys? Anything under 3v is low. Most new out of the box will read close to 3.3v. But the key doesn’t need a battery to open or start the car. You can use the emergency blade to open the door and then hold the key to the start stop button, then press the Start/Stop button and car will start. Get to a shop, change battery and all good again, no need for recoding or anything after battery change. So u will never be stranded with a dead battery in a key and no need for AA.

This is a very good point. At the end of the day u are never going to make money on a car, only ever lose. U are just trying to minimise the loss. & this is where PCP could be a helpful. If the bottom falls out of the market completely, u can just hand the car back at the end of the 3 years. If it’s worth less than the GMV that’s their problem not yours. That’s why they won’t set the GMV higher than 40% - they would be exposing themselves massively. So u should always have some equity tied up in the car at the end of 3 years otherwise they have messed up massively. In which case thank ur lucky stars u didn’t borrow the entire amount on normal finance and still owe it regardless of what the car is worth. U can essentially get out of a bad deal. The car lost more value than estimated and u can cut your loses. Not nice, but better than owning more money on a car than it’s worth - negative equity. PCP will help u avoid negative equity.